Thanks to everyone who contributed to the topic of securing cables in the
mast.  I just thought I would follow up and report back the result.

In the end, I did end up going with conduit.  I installed two runs of
1-1/4" schedule 40 outdoor PVC conduit (gray).  One up the aft of the mast
(slightly off to one side) that goes up to about 12 inches from the top of
the mast and the other up the front to just past the spreaders for the
steaming light and radar.  Each ends about 6 inches from the bottom of the
mast.

Both conduits are secured using 3/16" blind sealing aluminum rivets (I got
the rivets with aluminum mandrel because I was concerned about the
corrosion resistance of the steel ones).
https://www.mcmaster.com/rivets/rivet-type~blind/material~aluminum/system-of-measurement~inch/diameter~0-1875inches/aluminum-domed-head-sealing-blind-rivets/
For the most part I used the 0.375-0.5" length.  Steps taken:
- glue conduit pieces together using PVC primer and cement, then cut bottom
end to length.
- rotate mast so surface to rivet to is down and slide conduit into mast so
gravity kind of keeps it in place
- start at foot of the mast, put two rivets in about two inches apart
(these are easy cause we can hold the pvc in place when drilling).

I was then able to install the first few rivets about 2 feet apart going up
the mast.  However, this method stops working when you get to the first
joint (where the overlapping PVC is thicker).  I could snag it if I got a
longer rivet in the joint, but starting the next section was very hard as
it moves around when trying to drill and the rivet usually didn't catch the
PVC.  I tried different methods, pushing the conduit in place where another
mast fitting gave me access or drilling another hole off center and using a
wire hook (I wasn't very successful with that). The approach that worked
best for me was to drill for a hole about 2 inches away from the target
location but in line withe the PVC.  Drill into PVC using a smaller
diameter bit and drill out the aluminum with the 3/16" bit.  Then use a
fairly long self tapping screw into the PVC and use the screw to grab the
PVC tub and pull it against the mast.  Drill and install the desired rivet
location.  Remove screw, drill out hole in PVC to 3/16 and then install a
second rivet.  I did these two rivet pairs 3-4 feet apart.
On the front of the mast, I originally didn't secure the conduit where the
spin pole track is mounted.  However, I found that it had a lot of
flexibility and banged from side to side when the mast was rotated.  I was
able to push the middle over to one side (using one of the halyard exit
holes for access) and then put some rivets in the middle there).

For the front of the mast, I drilled holes into the PVC for the cables to
come out the side of the conduit at the appropriate locations, then used an
fish tape run up from the bottom to pull feed lines in and use those to
pull the cables.  Along with the cables, I pulled a thin line to use if I
ever need to add another cable.  At the top of the mast, the cables exit
the top of the conduit a little below the mast head, VHF runs out one side
and a 5 conductor 14 gauge cable for lights out the other.  Each of those
are going through existing diagonal holes.  After securing the cables I
caulked the holes to reduce water coming down the mast.  The NEMA1803 cable
for the wind instruments goes straight up through the center of the mast
head between the head sail sheaves and into the bottom of its mounting
bracket.

Note, with the rivets sticking into the conduit the conduits filled up
pretty quick and the cables sometimes catch on the rivets when trying to
pull them through. I am not sure I could pull anything else through even
though there is a pull line.  This does point to an an advantage of the
alternative carriage bolt method that was suggested. I also think I
probably could have fit 1-1/2" conduit instead so that might have been a
better choice to give a bit more room.

The aft conduit has:
LMR400-UF
5 conductor 14 gauge round marine cable (Tri-color/anchor light, Windex
light, + 1 spare)
NEMA1803 cable (put this one in first because of the connector).
The front one has:
- Garmin radar power cable
- Garmin radar communication cable (Ethernet) - note I had to cut the
connector off to fit it in and will need to crimp a new RJ45 on at the
bottom.
- Extra cat 6 cable
- 3 conductor flat 14 gauge cable for steaming and fore deck light.

Overall, I am reasonably pleased with the result - it will definitely be
good keeping the cables and halyards separate and I am hopeful that the
noise will be minimal (as long as the conduit doesn't come loose - crosses
fingers).  It did mean drilling a lot of holes in the mast and having a lot
of rivet heads sticking out which are pretty shiny right now, but I am sure
with a year or two they will not stand out too much.

Nathan

~~~
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C&C 34 CB
Lynn, MA
_______________________________________________

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Reply via email to