New af105/2.8micro, bad structure? [v04.n354/31]
Liu, When I bought my 105 AF micro last year, I noticed a similar characteristic. While I do not like it, it is quickly forgotten once you see the images this lens can produce. The loose barrel is due, I feel, to the normal looseness incorporated into all the AF lenses to reduce rotating friction and therefore load on the AF drive motor. The long throw of the 105 micro lens barrel in order to get to 1:1 exacerbates this effect. Dont worry, its normal. Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA www.summitresources.com Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 09:35:13 +0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: New af105/2.8micro, bad structure? [v04.n354/31] Message: 31 Dear Nikon fans: I've read that the af105/2.8micro has some bad reputation for "rattle", I bought a new one three weeks ago, indeed, the lenses not only "rattle", but the inner lenses can be moved! maybe 1mm. I don't know if it is normal. (I shot several rolls and for a 5X7 ,the image semms OK) Some of my friends are very puzzled about this, they think it is among the top levels of nikkor ever produced and can't have that bad structure . I wonder if it's nesseary to send it to Nikon tech center to have a check. thanx in advance! Liu FG
Re:28-105D
Art and the gang, I just recently helped a friend purchase this lens along with an N70. My limited experiences with it are similar to Art's. No vignetting in any mode at any FL. It seems well designed and built; a nice overall "one lens" solution for average shooting (whatever that means to you). No warning slip came with the lens. Maybe another situation of sample variation? Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA www.summitresources.com Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 20:45:32 -0400 From: "Art Searle" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re:28-105D and Cokin filters [v04.n342/11] [v04.n343/21] Message: 21 Thierry PERTUY wrote: First of all, this lens vignettes without any filter at all focals (but specially at short ones - 28-35mm). I just don't see it. I checked this lens at all focal lengths, minimum and maximum apertures, all focus distances and even in micro range and I saw no vignetting at all. My lens also did not come with the disclaimer about vignetting in micro range. What are others experience with this lens, vignetting or no? Art Art Searle, [EMAIL PROTECTED], Lake Grove, NY, USA 20 miles east of Nikon USA www.erols.com/w2nra
85/1.8 v. ? [v04.n294/2]
Owen, If you really like the 85/1.8, get the D version. The 105 and 135 will cost you some light and my not give you what you wanted in the angle of view. Just my opinion. Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA www.summitresources.com Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 20:25:37 -0500 From: "Owen P. Evans" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [none] [v04.n294/2] Message: 2 Hello to one and all; I am in a bit of a quandary. I have an 85/1.8AF which I like very much. I was thinking of upgrading to the D version for the distance info on my F5/SB-26 combination such that I could get the full benefits of 3D Multi Sensor Balanced Fill Flash. This being said, would the 105 or 135 DC lenses be a better upgrade for portraiture. I'm not sure how much usage the Defocus Control would get. These are expensive, but are they worth it? My portraits are of family and friends. I don't intend to use any of these commercially. Thanks in advance for any help. Owen
Which of Shaw's books should I get next? [v04.n294/20]
Ross, If you like John Shaws books, then get any you can find. I learned something from all of them due to his approach and obvious love for the craft that shows in his writing. Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA www.summitresources.com Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 11:18:14 -0500 From: "Goldberg, Ross P." [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Which of Shaw's books should I get next? [v04.n294/20] Message: 20 I am avidly reading John Shaw's Closeups in Nature and consider it must-read material for anyone! I am reading through, learning a lot of information, and deciding what items I plan to buy next to supplement my current equipment (and it doesn't have to break the bank!). I want to learn more about nature photography as well, so I can learn about how to best telephoto, extend the telephoto, compose, etc. I saw he has two books on the subject so I'm not sure which one would be best to get. The two titles are: Focus on Nature, 1991 Nature Photographer's Complete Guide to Professional Field Techniques, 1984 Please advise... Ross
F70 - N vs C [v04.n273/4]
Bjarne, Let's talk Nikons! Sorry to hear about the theft. Whomever stole it will get their comeuppance: what goes around comes around. There are only two N/F70 versions that I am aware of: standard and the quartz date back version. The QD version has a panoramic mode also. Only pay for the QD option if you have a need. They are the same cameras otherwise. You will love the AF speed compared to the F601. It also is D compatible, drives AF-S lenses and has the same metering as the F90X. It is worthy of the Nikon label. As for glass, your budget may determine most of you decision. If you can spend the $$ for just one lens, IMHO the 35-70/2.8D (not the AF-S) would be my choice. otherwise, get a good prime. Best of luck. Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA www.summitresources.com Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 12:35:58 +0100 From: "Bjarne Rementorp" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Vs: N vs C [v04.n273/4] Message: 4 I've just joined this list, so hello to you all. I wanted to learn a bit about Nikon because I'm about to invest in new equipment (my trusty F601 just got stolen). What I really wanted to seehere was ideas, inspiration, cool judgement about which F70 I should buy. Instead it seems I have tumbeled into a religious battle. Please, this is unworthy. Can't we just get over it and agree that N is a fabulous camera?? and so is C! (Although I've never had the pleasure to confirm that personally) If you have any recommandations for me please do not restrain yourselves! My stolen gear was F601, 35-70 std N-zoom and a Sigma 70 -300 APO,Macro tele (good one!). Regards Bjarne Rementorp, Slagelse, Denmark
Long lens decision [v04.n273/9]
Roy, First of all, congratulations on deciding to take the plunge! Secondly, If you have not done so already, search the archives in the Nature Photography section of photo.net. There have been several threads on this subject that would be useful to review. The short answer is, if birds are your primary target, then the 500 is the minimum. If you want a very good overall wildlife lens for everything EXCEPT birds, then the 400/2.8 AF-S is the way to go. If you shop around, you will find that the 600/4 AF-S is not that much more $$ than the 400/2.8 AF-S. You get much more mag. (remember that mag. increases as a square of the incease in focal length - sorry I don't have the formula handy) and not much more weight. Most birders use the 600 with the 1.4 TC attached almost permanently (840/5.6). IMHO, the 2X TC will not get much use, so go for the longest lens you can and get the 1.4X. Heck, If you can afford it, the 400/2.8 AF-S would make a great in flight lens, with the 600/4 on the tripod =^). Make sure you have a good 'pod and head, as well. Others can give you more specifics on the optical quality, but rest assured that I have never read a bad optical review of any of these lenses. After all, it's a Nikkor!! Best of luck with the new glass and let us know how things work out. Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA www.summitresources.com Date: Sat, 27 Feb 1999 07:37:33 -0800 From: "Roy Breslawski" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Long lens decision [v04.n273/9] Message: 9 I'm about to make a once in a lifetime purchase of a long Nikkor telephoto. Before making the wrong choice I would like some opinions from experienced members of this group. I have narrowed my choices down to the 400 f2.8 AF-S and 500 f4 AF-S. The primary use will be for wildlife, from birds up to large mammals. I will also purchase at least the TC-14E and maybe the TC-20E. Some of the pros and cons I see are: The 400 is one stop faster and focuses much closer. It is heavier, however, the 500 is 8 pounds. Not sure how much difference the weight will be when it's already this heavy. The 500 has the extra length and gets all the way to 700 with the TC-14E. I'd rather not have to use the TC-20E since I've never seen a 2x extender that had very high quality. Any other aspects I should be considering about these lenses? Anyone have experience shooting with both? Any optical quality difference? Is the TC-20E better than I am assuming? Which would you purchase? The price is pretty much the same for both. ---
How many rolls from fresh batteries in F70? [v04.n261/8]
Mike, I typically get anywhere from 30 to 50 rolls of 24 or 36 exp. from a set of batteries. I use the on board flash fairly often (~25%) and drive my 35-70/2.8 and 80-200/2.8 in AF mode ~70% of the time. I also shoot in the cold quite a bit, and have not had a change in useage. Sounds like yours is battery unfriendly. I can get CR123 batteries for any where from $4 US to $7 US (each). Does the camera operate properly otherwise? Best regards, Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA www.summitresources.com Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 17:58:18 PST From: Michael Ryan [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: How many rolls from fresh batteries in F70? [v04.n261/8] Message: 8 Hi everybody, snip So, all you F70 users out there, let me know how many rolls you typcially get from a fresh set of brand-name lithiums. If you use the pop-up flash, please indicate what percentage of shots this is used for; also say if you use MF or AF. Thanks in advance to everybody who replies. Bye, Mike [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.NetworX.ie
N70 Question (ISO)
Kim, Yes, the ISO is resettable/manually selectable on the N70. This is not a stupid question, as this is an important feature for some people (including me), and this is the place to ask ANY question regarding Nikon equipment. The only stupid questions are the ones that remain questions because they were never asked. Buy it. You won't regret it. I am an N70 shooter, so if you have any other questions, feel free to ask me directly or the digest in general. Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA www.summitresources.com Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 14:51:22 -0500 From: "Kevin Kim Koluch" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: N70 Question [v04.n245/1] Message: 1 This may seem like a stupid question, but can you manually select the ISO speed on the N70. I am considering one, and would like to be sure that I can push film. Thank you, Kim Koluch [EMAIL PROTECTED]
TC14E on 300/4
Dan, The TC-14E will not physically mount to the 300/4 or any other non-AFS/AFI lens. However, the pin which interferes with mounting can be removed/filed off. I am curious to do the same, but do not relish spending $450 US to find out that the optical combo does not work well. Regards, Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA www.summitresources.com Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 12:11:22 -0800 From: Dan Nelson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: TC14E on 300/4? [v04.n239/2] Message: 2 Can I use a TC14E converter on my AF 300/4? I know AF won't work (it won't with the TC14B either!), but the stop-down mechanism should be ok, right? Or is there some physical or optical (vignetting / light fall-off) limitation? It would be nice to carry around just one TC for most of my lenses... (lucky Canon users)
DR3-adapter [v04.n234/13]
Yes. The adapter for the N6006/F601 is Nikon part number 2370 NCP. I am not sure what adapter the FG requires, but if it is not the same as the F601, it may be the DK-7 if the FG has the same finder configuration as the F3hp. Hope this helps. Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA www.summitresources.com Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 16:49:37 +0100 From: "C.J.Bol" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: DR3-adapter [v04.n234/13] Message: 13 Daer group I have a DR3 right angle finder for my FM. Is there an adapter so I can use it on the F601/N6006 and FG too? Thanks Kees Bol
AF vs. MF 105 micro
Paul, AF can sometimes be a help in macro, but only under certain situations and only if your eyes have trouble determining that what you want sharp is, in fact, in focus. Having said that, I dont think I have taken more than 5 frames at or near 1:1 in AF mode. The MF characteristics are not as nice as the MF version, but are not terrible either. I was able to adjust quickly. Remember, though, that this is one nice, sharp lens that also focuses to 1:1. I use mine for much more than just macro. Something to keep in mind. IMHO, if you intend to use this lens on an AF body, get the AF lens Hope this helps. Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA www.summitresources.com Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 10:46:16 -0500 From: "Paul Ricci" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: AF vs. MF 105 micro [v04.n229/27] Message: 27 I am considering purchasing the AF 105 micro lens, but I don't see much value in AF'ing for macro photography. On the other hand the MF 105 micro only focuses down to 1/2 life size vs. 1/1 for the AF version. Is the AF version easy to manual focus? How does it compare to the MF version? (My local dealer has neither version in stock) If any one has experience with either or both of these I would appreciate your feedback. Best regards, Paul Ricci
Nikon 35-70 2.8D [v04.n218/23]
Mark, I have had this lens for over a year and it has never exhibited lens creep. This lens is also a two touch design. The focus ring rotates as usual, while the zoom ring is push pull. Keep in mind that the front element rotates while focusing. This is a problem for some, but not for me. This is my workhorse lens that is on the body 75% of the time. It is sharp edge to edge and merits the moniker "pro zoom". I find the range to be quite adequate, as I dont expect it to be all things to all subjects. The price is worth it. Hope this helps. Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA Hello, I was wondering if anyone out there could give me their experiences with this lens. I was wondering if I should be at all concerned with lens creep? This would be a big purchase for me, so I'd like to find out as much info about this lens as possible before I buy it. I'd hate to put that much money into a lens and have it move on me. Thanks.
next body advice [v04.n209/13]
Bill, Others may have already mentioned it, but I think you mgiht be overlooking a very viable alternative to the N90. The N70 is not much more than an N6006 new (about US$420 at BH), and offers far superior AF, 3D matrix metering AND 3D MB fill flash. It also drives AFS lenes, should you add one to your arsenal later on. This camera is the best value in the Nikon line, IMHO. If you want more details on this body, let me know. Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 19:52:14 -0800 From: "Bill H. Hilburn Jr." [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: next body advice [v04.n209/13] Message: 13 snip If I cannot find a new N6006, I will bite the bullet, and buy the N90s. I would probably be better off doing that now, but I get to make a mistake every now and then, and having a mint N6006 would not be too painful. Again, I appreciate all of the feedback you have provided. Thank you very much. Adios, Bill Hilburn
N70 topdeck confusing? [v04.n210/20]
Leigh, The interface is quite easy to use, but does require some learning. The camera is also quite sophisticated, which requires the detailed display for access to all of the functions. However, you need not worry about the display at all if you shoot mostly in P mode or if you are just starting out. You did not mention what your level of experience is, so please do not take offense. If you do "play" with the settings, there is a factory recall of the basic P mode settings to set it all back again. One of the best features of the camera is the ability to set up several modes for various situations and save them in the cameras memory. You can then recall the settings very quickly later on. The N70 stores 3 custom settings, in addition to the factory settings. If you have any questions about this camera, feel free to e-mail me. Do not let the interface or display overly concern you. Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 15:23:37 -0600 From: Leigh Bedford [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: N70 topdeck confusing? [v04.n210/20] Message: 20 I admit I've only seen the N70's LCD display in the literature, but it looks confusing as heck! What do actual users of the N70 think? Thanks! Leigh
300/4 + Sigma 1.4 TC
Has anyone used the new Sigma 1.4 APO TC with the Nikkor 300/4? If so, how have the images been? I wish to keep my lenses all Nikon, but there is no 400/5.6 AF option other than third party. The Sigma TC will preserve AF and all metering funtions, according to Sigma. I would love to hear from anyone who has tried this combo. Thanks, Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA
some questions on the N70/F70 [v04.n199/32]
Raphael, Can someone tell me what's the difference between cable MC12-A and MC12-B ? Are there other possibilities for a remote cable on the N70/F70? The -A is longer than the -B. The -B is about 1 meter long. I believe the -A is about 3 meters long. Another possible cable is the programable MC-21(?), which is more expensive. An MR-3 mechanical release can be used with an ISO mechanical cable, but some functionality is lost. And finally the $100 last question : is it possible to use high synchr. speed with the N70/SB25 combo (I mean higher than 1/125)? I've been reading a lot on it (in mailing lists and magazines) and half of the people think it is whereas the rest thinks it's not. Did somenone REALLY succeed having a 1/4000 speed? The problem is that the N70 has been made after the SB-25. So nothing is said on the N70 in the SB-25 manual... The N70 does not support sync higher than 1/125. However, I do not have an SB-25. I doubt the high speed sync is available with that unit. Hope this helps, Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA
Nikon or Sigma 400/5.6 AFS/HSM
Just thought I would post this for other Nikon shooters that are wishing for a 400/5.6 AFS lens. I inquired of Sigma whether they would be producing an HSM version of their 400/5.6 AF lens. Here is their response: Dear Sir: Unfortunately, there are no current plans for making a 400mm lens with the HSM motor for Nikon camera systems. If, however the lens becomes available, we will be sure to contact you. Sincerely, Sigma Corporation of America 15 Fleetwood Court Ronkonkoma, NY 11779 (516) 585-1144 (516 585-1895 - fax
N6006 vs N70
John, Depending on how dusty and damp, neither may be preferable. Maybe buy a used F3 or F4s, they have better sealing. As far as comparing the 6006 and N70, I have used both and, disregarding functional capability, they are comparable handling wise. If I were to choose (again), I would still pick the N70. Don't be scared off by the whining you may have heard about the interface. Yes it is different than other bodies, but if you have a reasonably funtion brain, you can learn it very quickly IMHO. This is a very sophisticated camera for the price. If you want more details, feel free to e-mail me. Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 10:30:01 -0800 (PST) From: John Foster [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: N6006 vs N70 [v04.n195/22] Message: 22 Fellow users, Is there a difference in build quality between these two bodies? Which is most rugged for withstanding the rigors of months of living overseas in a dusty tropical place, taking lots of pictures? I think that I would prefer the interface of the N6006, but I do not have extensive experience with either. Thanks in advance, John --
digest pause
Has the digest paused for a few days, or have I become the lucky dropped member of the month? The last digest I received was vol4, #184, Jan 4 1999. If I have been missing some digests, I will get them from the archives, but I would appreciate someone dropping me a note to let me know if the digest ahve been missing me. Thanks. Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA
Long Exposures with N70
Bob, I want to do some night shots, including doing star patterns which require up to several hours of exposure with a new F70. I have learned not to do this with a F3 as the battery will be exhausted, so I use the F2 for this sort of photography. A couple questions What has been your experience using the shutter release "button" for long exposures 1 sec First, you should have the camera on a tripod, so I will assume that is what you are doing. IMHO, exposures that approach one second should NOT be triggered with the shutter button. Use the self timer if you dont have a remote cord. Remember to cover the viewfinder to keep stray light out so the exposure is not affected (in P, A, or S mode - not an issue in M). I have used long exposres up to 20-25 seconds with no measureable effect on battery life. However, star trails that you mention will require exposures of several hours. If you start with fresh batteries, the shutter should still close when you are done, but I would changes the batteries shortly thereafter. If the batteries go dead before the shutter is closed, you will have to change them. The solenoids wont close the shutter or return the mirror without power. Put a lens cap on before you change the batteries to avoid stray light from ruining the image as you play with the camera. Does the Remote Cord MC-12B have a "lock" on it so it can be left unattended during VERY long exposures Yes it does. Good luck. Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA
SC-17 (Christmas Wish List)
Carlo, My SB-28 has an AF assist beam that functions just fine when mounted on my SC-17. I hardly ever use the SB-28 on the hot shoe. However, when hand holding the speedlight, you have to be sure to aim the unit directly at the subject so that the beam will illuminate it. This may be tough in low light with both hands quite busy! Personally, I think focus aid beams should be on the camera body, not the flash or remote cord. This way AF is useable even when no flash is used (or desired). Minolta has this on some of their AF bodies. With respect to the lock pin, my SC-17 does in fact have the socket for the SB-28's pin to drop into when the lock ring is turned. However, the end which attaches to the hot shoe just has the clamp portion, which I think is suficient, since little if any stress is placed on this connection in a direction which would cause it to slip off. Hope this helps. Merry Christmas! Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1998 00:55:47 -0800 (PST) From: carlo guerrero [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Christmas wish [v04.n175/4] Message: 4 Merry Christmas to everyone. has anybody used their sb-xx handheld with an sc-17 cord, and tried autofocusing it in a really dark place? or has used their sb-xx on a storboframe in darkness? If you have, you might be very well aware thet it is almost impossible to autofocus and get a sharp shot. will nikon ever come up with a replacement for the sc-17 which incorporates a focus aid beam? and another thing, the sc-17 does not have the posi-mount provision which prevents the sb-xx from sliding off its hot shoe. i wish Santa will send me one this christmas... the sc-29? carlo _
SB-28: happy endings?
Sean, I had my SB-28 for 11 months when it started to "freak out" at my sons birthday party in late October. This was one of the first times I used it for an extended period both on the camera (N70) and in program mode (perfect mode for use in a room with 16 little children!). The following day I called Nikon (Melville, NY) and spoke to the service dept. I was advised the same thing as you: send both the body and the flash unit to them for "diagnostics" and repair. I fealt the same way. That is, they have to know about this problem, why are they jerking me around and asking for my camera body too? After procrastinating for several weeks, and not willing to part with my other right arm for what may be weeks, I called back and asked for tech support. The tech I spoke to said to just send in the flash ONLY with a description of the problem and warranty info. On 12/3 I finally sent the flash with a detailed description to Melville without my warranty papers, since I could not locate them. On 12/5 I received a confirmation letter from them acknowledgeing the receipt of the equip., and indicating that it would be repaired under warranty. The category of repair indicated a generic description of "moderate repair-major parts replaced". Whatever that means. As of today (12/11) I have not received the unit back, but its only been 7 days. Dependig on where you are, I suggest you do the same as I have. I also dont think it matters where you bought it. Your dealer has done quite a bit more than most mail order house would have. FWIW, I think that the cupcakes they have answering the phones at Nikon actually DONT know about the SB-28 problems. However, based on my situation SO FAR, the real service people do know and actually are being responsive and fair. Sorry for the long post. Hope this helps. Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 09:32:01 -0500 From: "Dougherty, Sean" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: SB-28: Horror Stories [v04.n156/1] Message: 1 snip . . . In calling Nikon, they wanted me to send both the flash, and my camera to them for diagnostics and repair. It was like both Nikon and the dealer had never even heard of the problem. All of this was not at all what I wanted to hear, especially this time of the year, so I decided to go back to the dealer and ask for a refund or store credit, buy it through BH and be done with it. But now the store won't take it back since they've exchanged it. snip . . . Don't get me wrong, I love my camera... but it seems Nikon USA is intent on weaseling out of fixing as many SB-28's as possible. I can't say if I would have been better of buying it from BH, but if I had it to do over again, I'd not have gotten it locally. Sean Dougherty --
F 601(6006) upgrade: 50 mm lens or flash unit [v04.n153/2]
Koen, I will make a few suggestions, but let me first start off by saying that you have not given a reason for wanting to add to your system. What do you want to do that you cannot with your current setup? Once you can verbalize the answer to that question, you will be better able to answer it yourself. You are the best judge as to what you need once you have a goal. As for the 50mm fixed FL lens, you already have this length covered in the 35-80 zoom. So you would only need this lens if you wanted more sharpness, lager aperture or smaller lens size. Dont worry too much about the lens elements/groups specs. First of all, this is simply a designation of how many pieces of glass there are and how they are "grouped" within the lens barrel. A large number of elements such as found in your zooms can cause flare and other image degradation. Not enough and you get distortion from extreme element curvature. Others on the list can correct or add to my explanation. Neither you nor I nor most others on this list are knowledgable enough about lens design to say how many elements is "best". As far as the coating, all modern lenses have organic coatings to reduce reflections and dispersion. Nikon and all other major lens makers have excellent coatings, so again, dont worry too much. As long as you stick with Nikon, you wont have a problem. Your F601 already has a nice little flash unit built in. Do you use it? If you do, are you happy with the results? The reasons for buying a different flash unit would be to get the unit off of the camera and for more power. Again, decide what you want to do with your photographic efforts, then spend money. If you do get an off camera flash, get the Nikon SC-17 cable. If you can afford it, get the SB-28, as it is the most capable unit available. However, the SB-23 is smaller and much cheaper, yet capable of most essential functions. I hope I have helped. The Nikon equipment that we love here are merely tools. Use them as such. Your imagination is the best tool of all. Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 16:12:39 +-100 From: "Koen C. Stap" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: F 601(6006) upgrade: 50 mm lens or flash unit [v04.n153/2] Message: 2 Hello, I'm a newbie in the world of photography. But I'm learning a lot of you all. Just by reading this great digest. I'm a starting amateur and this is my equipment: - - A Nikon F601 (6006) - - An Nikkor AF-D 35-80 mm /4.0 - 5.6 - - An Nikkor AF-D 80-200 mm/4.0 - 5.6 - - HN-3 sunhood - - HR-1 sunhood - - 2 L37c 55 mm UV filters. - - A tripod I consider buying a fixed focal length 50 mm lens. Which one is the best choice when you look at my equipment? Which lens is the best choice, the Nikkor AF 50/1.4 D or the Nikkor AF-D 50/1.8? I know that the Nikkor AF 50/1.4 D has 7 elements in 6 groups and the Nikkor AF 50/1.8 has a Nikkor super integrated coating. The AF 50/1.8 has 6 elements in 5 groups. How does it work with the groups and elements? What is better more elements or less? And what is that super integrated coating of the Nikkor AF 50/1.8? Is it useful or is it a nice commercial thing, with no value? Or is it more sensible to first buy a good flash unit? And which Nikon flash unit is the best choice when you look at the body and lenses I have. (Or non Nikon flash unit, like Metz for example) To what kind of things do I have to pay attention to when I want to buy a flash unit? Unfortunately I don't have enough money to buy a good flash unit and a fixed focal length lens, so I have to choose. I hope that you can give me some reasons to make my decision. Any advice would be appreciated. I thank you in advance. Koen Stap The Netherlands Email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Thank you
I was glad to see the input of Mr. Posner of BH over the last few digests. Now I am saddened to hear that MM is out of business. Hopefully Ed Yost still subscribes to the list and will continue to participate, wherever he may wind up. We haven't seen much of his knowledgeable input in a while; maybe MM's demise is the reason. One of the greatest assets of this list is the diversity of participants. I have been a sbscriber for over a year now. Originally I never expected to stay this long. Now I wouldn't think of missing it. No matter how much you think you know, there is always something more to learn. This digest proves that to me regularly. I guess I am just trying to say thank you to Andrew Donkin and ALL the digest members, even the ones that are passive participants. With over 3000 subscribers, there is bound to be some useful input! Seasons greetings to all Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA
Nikon 100 or 90s
Bryan, This depends alot on why you sold the N70. What do you need/want that an N70 couldn't/didn't give you? Once you can verbalize the answer to this question, then look for those things in the specs. of the F100 and N90. These are both fine machines, but so is the N70. I dont think anyone besides you is in a position to make this determination. Best of luck and happy shopping, Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 08:08:12 -0500 From: "Bryan Y. Pritchard" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Nikon 100 or 90s [v04.n143/2] Message: 2 Just sold my N70, and was needing input if I should wait on the F100 or go ahead and get the N90s? I am also using the 24-120 Nikon Lens and love it. I do lan on purchasing the 50mm 1.4 D Thanks Bryan Pritchard
what does the ED mean
Johnny, ED is Nikons designation for 'E'xtra low 'D'ispersion glass. Nikon puts these letters (and the gold label) on lenses that incorporate one or more elements that are made of this type of glass. ED glass, to my understanding, reduces flare, ghosting and perhaps some other undesireable traits inherent in lens designs that have a large number of elements, such as zooms and long teles. Hope this clears things up a bit. BTW, Nikon is not the only lens mfr to use "ED" type glass. I believe Sigma refers to this type of glass as "LD" in thier lenses. Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 06:42:47 -0800 From: Johnny Rico [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: nikon-digest V4 #142 [v04.n143/7] Message: 7 Nikon lenses confuse the heck out of me. I recently purchased a Nikon ED 70-300 4-5.6D lens (mainly for wildlife shots, i.e. flying birds). I know what the "D" means, but what does the "ED" mean? My other Nikon lense does not bear this gold insignia. Thanks. Will report on the results of the lens when the film comes back. RJB. --
105 micro/24mm filters
Nelson, First of all, we were all newbies once, so don't feel ashamed to ask any questions about your nikon equipment here. I have both of these lenses and will try to give you a few pointers without overwhelming you (hopefully) With respect to your 105 micro, it is indeed a great overall lens, with the additional ability to focus to 1:1. My first suggestion is for you to get a tripod if you intend to do any macro work. Actually, I feel that a tripod is as important as the camera, regardless of the lens used, if sharpness is something you desire. Handheld macro is really not an option due to the slow shutter speeds you will wind up using. Focusing will be relatively easy unless the light is very low. Depth of field is increased by using smaller apertures. As long as you are using a camera with TTL metering, no exposure compensation should be necessary, other than bracketing. I suggest you seek out a copy of John Shaws Closeups in Nature book to really get a better understanding of this aspect of photography. With respect to your 24mm, it will not vignette with the L37c. I have not tried a "standard" circular polarizer on this lens, but would suggest you do so before buying one. If possible, get the correct Nikon circ. pol. filter. It is oversized in diameter so as to avoid vignetting. No matter what you do, remove the L37c before mounting the polarizer, since stacking the filters may make even the Nikon or other "thin" filters vignette. BTW, I have a Hoya SMC ultra-thin circ. pol for my 80-200/2.8. If you can get one for the 24mm, it may work out for you. My last suggestion-take more pictures. You will learn more and faster by trying things out yourself, so burn some film and have some fun. Happy shooting, Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 08:06:48 -0200 From: "Nelson Kao" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Advices on some lenses and filters [v04.n139/31] snip I expect that the 105mm will be very useful for portraits and for some macro works when I have the chance to travel through our tropical nature. Is this lens difficult to work handheld in macro mode? Do I need special exposure adjustments when in macro? Is the SB26 useful in macrophotography or do I need a special speedlight? Any trick to focus more easily despites the very low depth of field? I have some doubts, also. Do the 24mm vignette if i use together L37c and a polariser filter? Do I need to buy slim filters? If the answer is "yes", I'm afraid it will be a little difficult to find them here in Brazil. In our market I have never seen B+W filters, for example. The most common filters here are the SK, Cokin and Hoya, the last one being imported by the local Nikon's sole representative. If these questions are too newbie for the list, please send me by email. Thank you all. nelson kao
80~200/2.8 hood [v04.n138/5]
Luiz, The HB-7 is the correct hood and is needed to reduce flare and protect the lens. The "built in" hood is rather limited in effectiveness. The HB-7 is fairly large and expensive for a plastic ring. However, I have wacked it soundly a time or two against a table edge or similar hard surface that surely would have damage the lens and/or dented a metal hood. The plastic absorbs quite a bit of energy and, contrary to my initial concerns about its fragility, is quite durable. It is also reversible on the bayonet so does not eat that much more space in my bag when stowed that way on the lens. Hope this helps. Jim Korczak Pocono Mountains, USA Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 15:57:12 -0200 From: "Luiz F. Coimbra" [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: 80~200/2.8 hood [v04.n138/5] Yesterday I bought myself the 80~200mm f/2.8D ED, with tripod collar, two-touch interface and a so called built-in lens hood. I bought also a Nikon UV0 filter for protection and guess what... When I screwed the filter in and put the focal lenght at 70mm, the hood simply disappear. The front element is no more than 1 or 2cm inside the front of the lens. This, in my opinion, isn't enough to protect the lens from diffused rays of light, so I am thinking that a hood is really needed. I made some research and found out that the recommended lens hood is the HB-7. Is this information correct? Also, do I really need the hood or that thing called a built-in hood is already enough to avoid flare? Thanks in advance Luiz F. Coimbra
