As a fellow scooter rider Nate,I know the dangers of our hobby.The MAN up
stairs must be a big chevy fan and knew you still had too much work to do.Hope
you get repaired quick and get back to what you love.Sorry for the delay in
passing along my best,just reading emails now.Good Luck.Tom in
When I rebuilt my 216,I went for the updated rods.You can either have your
machine shop do the work on the rods
or they may send them out to have done,With the modern style insert type rod
bearing and a synthetic oil(after break-in-period of course)That engine will
last longer than all of
I discovered that I purchased the fan from Chevy Duty and the description of
the fan on their website reads 4 blade 15 3/4 inch fan 216 only.so by their
knowledge,it's the correct fan for my 216.Any more info on this?Thanks.Tom in
N.J.
-Original Message-
From: Jeff Pohlar [EMAIL
I read in my service manual that the fan is a 4 blade and 18.I purchased a
repo one from one of the vendors and it's 4 blades but a little under 16.Could
this also be working against me and if so does any one have a good 18 4 blade
fan I could purchase?Thanks again.One other thing.Before I
The fan sits about an inch away from the radiator.The coolant mix is 50/50.It
does have a 180 dgr. thermostat.Any suggestions on what to use as far as
shimming the fan?Thanks again for all the help!Don't know where this truck
would be without this group.Tom in N.J.
-Original
Well this is the problem.When I'm driving down the road or up a hill,down a
hill,whatever,the temp. gauge stays aroun 180 dgrs.But when i come to a
stop,then it'll go up to around 212 dgrs.just sitting at idle.Tom.
-Original Message-
From: vwnate1 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To:
I've never heard of steam holes.Took new thermostat out of box and installed
it.180 degree thermostat.Could a new radiator be clogged?I know for a fact that
the intake rings are in there,I installed them myself.Tom in N.J.
-Original Message-
From: vwnate1 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To:
I didn't look,but I'll do that and let you know.These suggestions are great as
is this club!Tom.
-Original Message-
From: vwnate1 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 13 Jun 2007 12:17 pm
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: running hot ~ Radiators
Silly
I believe it is a 3 row radiator.When took the cap off and looked inside i
could see 3 open slots in a row if you were are looking from the front of the
radiator towards the back(engine side).Tom
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed,
As I stated before,this engine has about 120 miles on it since a complete
rebuild.I've done all the work myself and put in brand new prestone
antifreeze.Tom.
-Original Message-
From: vwnate1 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 12 Jun 2007 10:00 am
Subject:
During my tear down of the engine,I purchased and installed a new radiator from
Jim Cater's.The new fines are completely clear.Tom.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 12 Jun 2007 1:32 pm
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: running
It not stuck.Moves very freely.Tom
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, 11 Jun 2007 10:15 pm
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: running hot
Is the flap on the manifold opening up, or stuck ?
John
Jeff City MO
52 3/4 ton
Thanks for all the input.I'll try all the suggestions I got and go from
there.Thanks again.Tom in N.J.
-Original Message-
From: rmarks10 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sun, 10 Jun 2007 6:21 pm
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: running hot
May sound
It's been acting this way ever since I got it running again.If I just let it
idle in the garage it never seems to go past 182dgrs.Only when I drive it is
there a problem if that makes any sense?Tom in N.J.
-Original Message-
From: Bill [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To:
Took the truck(1950 3100)out for a ride today and noticed that when sitting at
a stop,temp gauge would go up around the 212 mark.Stays at about 182 dgrs. when
driving along.Less than 120 miles on new 216 rebuild with new
thermostat,radiator,hoses,cap,and rebuilt water pump.Also a new fan.Not
So if I'm understanding you,there should be a ground wire on the sender
correct?Now what you want me to do is connect these 2 wires together while they
are still connected to the sending unit and ground?What am I looking
for?Thanks.Tom in N.J.
[Non-text portions of this message have been
Thanks Nate.Haven't had a chance to get out there yet but it seems as though
the problem is a missing wire.I'll soon find out.Thanks again.Tom in N.J.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
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Thanks again Steve.Will do.Tom in N.J.Also a thankyou to Janice as well.
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I really appreciate your time Steve.It is in fact a real 6vlt. battery.I
looked at the diagram in my manual and it appears as though the sending unit is
supposed to have a ground.I installed a new wiring harness in the truck but
there was no new ground wire for the sending unit.But as I'm
I could be wrong here,but aren't there some bolts inside the cab on or near
the floor board that attach to the fender as well?Or are they just for the
inner fender?Hope this is of some use.Tom in N.J.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To
Thanks to all for the help.First off,it's still a 6vlt system.I took all
your advice and switched the wires.The wire from the ign. switch went on the
lower post and the wire to the gauge went on the higher post.Turned the key on
and the needle moved upward but not as high as I thought it
I purchased one from J.Carter about 2 years ago.Looks correct until you
install it.The bottom tank on the one for my 1950 3100 hit the radiator
support.Radiator is made differently.Also had to cut a hole in lower gravel pan
to
clear petcock placement.Pain in the [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Just a thought.You said you just put a cam in so I'm assuming the water pump
was off at some point.When you reinstalled it did you just put a new gasket
on or did you do a gasket and sealer?Try putting a large amount on the back of
the pump with a new gasketThe gasket alone won't seal
Located a big truck part supplier in the area that stocked Truck-lite
products.Called them on the phone and they had exactly what I was looking
for.4inch
lenses,red and orange,and chrome.$40 for the pair and made in the USA!One
hundred times nicer than the ones I had.Thanks to everyone that
That's all I need to get on the road.I really appreciate the offer but don't
start a project on my account.Mr.Jeff gave a good lead so I think I'll go
with that for now.Thanks again for the offer.Tom in N.J.
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Ole Chevy and GMC trucks
Thanks Jeff.Looks like a great place to start.Thanks again.Tom in N.J.
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Does anyone know where I can get a pair of fender lights for the top of my
front fenders.One of mine broke.Ther're used for running/turnsignal lights.One
lens is orange and the other side is red.6Volts still.Thanks.tom in N.J.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole
Took my truck out Easter Sunday to get gas.On my way to the gas station,it
stalled out on me twice and died at the pumps twice.Couldn't get it
started.Have a clear glass filter just before the carb and it was empty.I had
just got
gas.Poured some gas down the carb but it still wouldn't
As I mentioned before,the fuel pump is new.I'm not saying it isn't possible
though.Tom in N.J.
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Yahoo!
I also had problems with them a few years ago.Placed a big order and things
were either on backorder or the wrong ones.But I made my peace with the
situation.Twice a year there is a large swap meet on the east coast in
Carlisle,P.A.Jim Carter himself takes the orders at a table that is set
I recently completed a 216 rebuild that took me the better part of 4yrs.The
only upgrades I went with were the insert bearing type rods,(Jim Carter
charges a core charge that you can recoup to offset the cost)and the hardened
valve
guides for the unleaded gas.The later is debateable.I
Just like to add my 2cents.I'm a technician at an Acura dealer and it's no
different there.If you can fix a car you get all the repair work.If you blow
through a lot of work,you get all the easy well paying jobs.The fact of the
matter is in this day and age,you take the time to do the job
Ok Tom,this is what I'v discovered.The windows and door locks are controlled
by a multiplex control unit.There is one on the driver's side and passenger
side.In order to limit the amount of actual wiring in the vehicle,these
multiplex control units are used.They communicate with each other
Tom.If you want,I can look at a factory electrical troubleshooting manual
after the holidays.I'm a technician at a large automall that has a Honda
dealer.The techs there are all friends of mine.I'll run the problem by them as
well
and see what they say.Just let me know.Tom in N.J.
I've been following all the responses to this problem.Now,I'm not a 261
guy.But I've rebuilt a 216.I noticed you mentioned something about switching
the
dizzy.Just a thought so bare with me here.Is it possible that the vac.advance
is set too far down the dizzy and preventing the dizzy shaft
If I'm late here I apologize,but it seems to me that the cork seal goes on a
certain way.One side of it is tappered to fit on the ball for a better
seal.Is it possible you have the cork piece backwards?Tom in N.J.
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Ole Chevy and GMC
Just to add my opinion,I recently noted that I had a problem with a master
cylinder kit I purchased from LMC that was made in China.I've gotten a few
things from them and all were made in China.This is why I think their prices
are
a little cheaper.Tom in N.J.
[Non-text portions of this
I'm adding my opinion late here,but that sounds like the bracket for the
clutch pedal return spring and the brake pedal spring.Tom in N.J.
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Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the
Just an update.After trying Nate's suggestions with no luck,I just decided
to get another rebuild kit.Purchased a Wagner kit made in the good old U.S. of
A.Installed the kit.added Dot 5 fluid,and bang.PRESSURE!!Now I know I
installed the last correctly.The difference I believe is
Tried bleeding my brakes today but wasn't getting anywhere.Had the wife
operating the brake pedal while I rolled around underneath.Started with the
left
rear as per manual and can't get more than a trickle out of any of the
bleeders.Checked to make sure pressure was good out of master
No,I didn,t.I don't even know the meaning of the word annealing.This is the
first time I've ever seen the word.All ready took the master cylinder to
him.That area in question had actual gashes in it.Looked pretty bad.Tom in N.J.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole
According to my book,AECA is a1947 216 made in Flint,MI.Tom in N.J.
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I can't get it to idle and there is a lot of real black smoke coming out the
tail pipe.If I put the gas pedal to the floor,then it seems to run ok.Pulled
the plugs,and they all were black.Just as the gas started to run out,it
seemed to run perfectly.Tom in N.J.
[Non-text portions of this
I'm looking over my rebuilt rochester carb because My engine is running very
rich and I can't get the engine to idle.Bought the carb at a swap meet a few
years ago and I'm just getting The new engine running.The power piston moves
fine.Sat the floats in gas for about 8 hrs with a rock on
That's the wrong Tom.It's me.Tom from N.J.
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Just got done bleeding my brand new brake system and to my shock,at every
hose and junction block there is fluid leaking out.Can't get it to stop.Tried
tightening all the lines real snug but not having any success stopping the
leaks.My new brake lines are from Jim Carter.Any help before I
Sorry it took me so long to respond,but I've discovered the problem.The
rebuild kit had a new spring in it with a silver washer at one end that had a
hole in the middle of it.For whatever reason,I installed this end of the spring
towards the valve.When I carefully looked at the master
Thankyou Jim.I'll make sure the shift box is packed with grease.Tom
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The manual says 1 to 5 thousands clearance on the piston so I'm all right
there.As far as springs go,there is only one spring.If I look into the top of
the master cylinder I see 2 holes.One is smaller than the other.The larger one
is open,but the small one isn't.Do you know if the smaller
Now that you mention it,I do recall that topic.Sorry if this a repeat,but I
don't rember exactly what was said.Thanks Tom
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Thanks Mike!!When I took the trans out to remove the engine,I made
sure I didn't touch any of the adjustments on the shift rods.This way
everything would just go right back together with no problem.That's why I
couldn't
figure out what was wrong since nothing was dissturbed.I made
A few months ago I sent my master cylinder out and had it sleeved.I'm just
now getting around to reinstalling it in my truck.The problem is that the
piston is getting stuck inside the cylinder and I can't bleed it of air or
fluid.I
measured the inside bore of the cylinder[1 inch]and the
Having a problem with my shift linkage.Can't seem to get it to operate
properly when I attach it to the trans.First and reverse feel right,but can't
get
second and third.Column shifter gets jammed when going into second.Can't seem
to get the two rods syncronized.Any help would be
Thanks a lot Paul.I plan to tackle it this weekend.Your response makes
perfect sense to me.I'm just glad someone understood what I was trying to
describe.Thanks again.Tom
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I'm trying to remove the differential and torque tube from my 50 3100 but
seem to be running into a problem?There is a leak where the diff. is attached
to
the axle housing.I thought I could just remove the above mentioned parts
with out taking the entire axle housing out of the truck.The
About that 1000 sandpaper.Is that to be used after the 300 sandpaper or use
only the 1000 grit and why on my axles?Thanks.Tom
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Hey Jeff.Would it be possible for you to give me the part# for that speedi
sleeve and the telephone # of your warehouse so I can get one?Tom
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I found a place near me that will measure my axle and order the correct
speedi sleeve.But I really appreciate your help.Thanks a lot!TomP.S.I'll post
the
part number when I get it.
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I just replaced the brake lines on my 50 3100 but I kept some of the old
lines.If I have the one you need you're more than welcome to it.Tom
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Where did you take them?Machine shop?I'm in southern N.J.Tom
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Thanks glperry4.I bought a brand new hose,but it's the valve that's the
problem.No matter what position the T handle is in it leaks.Even if I tighten
up
the nut to crush the packing,it still leaks.I'm gonna call Bow Tie Bits and
give them a try.Thankyou all for your suggestions.I really
I think this was covered so forgive me.Has anyone replaced the fuel shutoff
valve under the cab of a 1950 1/2 pu and still used the rubber line that goes
from valve to metal fuel line that runs to fuel pump?Mine leaks really bad
and I can't find anything to replace it.I've been to
Stay away from the cheap stuff.It's worthless.Stick with craftsman or even
Husky from HomeDepot.Instead of returning your cheap broken socket by mail and
waiting for the new one to arrive,You can get some quilty and just take it
back to the store to have it replaced.Tom
[Non-text portions
I had the head on my 216 rebuilt about 3yrs. ago and also had the hardened
seats installed for the reason of running the engine on unleaded gas.Cost me
about $400 for everything.Tom
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Hey Nate.What method do you use for adjusting the valves?Just curious.Tom
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When you turn the main bolt on the puller make sure it's not hitting the
balancer itself.If this is the case,the puller becomes one with the balancer
and
when you tighten the puller's main bolt,once it tightens up it's just like
turning the crankshaft with a wrench.You may have to put
Thankyou all for your input.I just needed to vent to those who understand.I
decided to part ways for now and give us both(me and the truck)a break.As far
as my coolant leak,when I first started it and it was running poorly,oil was
pouring out of the side cover because the new head gasket
Could the group please remind me why I continue to drive myself crazy with
this old truck???Just came in from the garage after two and a half hours of
[EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) new engine that I've spent three
years worth of
work on doesn't run right.The new valve I
For what it's worth,I bought engine paint from Jim C and was very pleased
with it.The last time I bought parts from him,I went online,and got a discount
on each part.The savings covered the cost of shipping.So I suggest you try
that for your paint.Tom
[Non-text portions of this message
After 3 years I finally finished my engine.(1950 216).Went to start it and
it wouldn't run.Was getting fuel to carb but spark didn't look too
strong.Swapped some ignition parts,but still nothing.Went and got a new
coil.Nothing.Turned dizzy 180 degrees.It started but didn't idle.Had to keep
I recently purchased a rocker arm assembly from kanter.I'd give them my
business again.Very nice on the phone and my order arrived quickly.Tom
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Thanks Mike.Tom
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Putting in a new style wiring harness in my 50 1/2 ton pu.If you're looking
at the back of the ampmeter,which post is the positive and which is the
negative.Hard to tell by the manual and the back of the gauge isn't
marked.Thanks.Tom
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