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Where Detroit Sees a Derelict Factory, Berliners See a Techno Dance Club

Germans Pitch Motown Ideas on Music Scene; Deserted Plant's 'Special Aura'

By JACK NICAS
Oct. 13, 2014 10:30 p.m. ET

BERLIN--On each of his last 15 visits to Detroit, Dimitri Hegemann has visited 
his old friend, Fisher Body 21.

"We really stay in touch," says the 60-year-old Berliner with flowing 
blonde-and-white hair. "Fisher Body is my first real 
love."

Fisher Body 21 is a decrepit six-story building that is covered in graffiti, 
lined with smashed windows and, according to 
state authorities, dangerously contaminated. Built in 1919, the former 
auto-parts plant in Detroit was deserted two 
decades ago.

But where others see a case for the wrecking ball, Mr. Hegemann and his friends 
see the first step toward the revival of 
America's abandoned city. The asbestos-filled ruin, he says, "has a special 
auraand I have plans for it."

Mr. Hegemann, founder of a Berlin nightclub and record label, is spearheading a 
project called the Detroit-Berlin 
Connection, an effort by the movers and shakers in this city's music scene to 
help restart the Motor City. The Berliners 
compare Detroit to their city after the fall of the Berlin Wall and say it has 
all the ingredients for a similar rebirth 
as a center of underground culture: deserted buildings, cheap rents and a 
gritty reputation.

This summer, a dozen Berliners flew to Detroit to conduct a five-hour symposium 
for locals on how Berlin turned a ruined 
city into a cultural hub.

They gave lectures on cultivating a music scene, circumventing government 
bureaucracy and recapturing abandoned buildings. 
Amid meetings with community organizers and local developers, the Berliners 
toured ruins, dined at a Zen Buddhism cafe and 
danced at a techno-music festival.

Berlin and Detroit have a deeper connection than tough times. The Berliners say 
they want to pay Detroit back for giving 
Berlin a crucial element to its own recovery: Techno music.

While on a trip to the U.S. in 1987, Mr. Hegemann discovered a demo album of 
strange industrial beats. Intrigued, he 
called the number scrawled on the label and reached the artists, a few young 
DJs from Detroit. "It reminded me of factory 
sounds," he said. "Later I found out that everybody from Detroit has at least 
one relative that worked at" an auto 
factory.

Mr. Hegemann released the album under his German record label and brought the 
Detroit DJs to play in Berlin. As the Berlin 
Wall fell, techno exploded here, fueling all-night dance parties in the city's 
abandoned spaces. "Detroit techno was the 
soundtrack to reunification," he said. "It was a key to bring the kids from 
East and West Berlin together."

Techno music--generally synthetic beats laid over repetitive bass tracks--now 
powers Berlin clubs that open on Friday and 
close on Monday. They attract millions of visitors every year.

Katja Lucker, head of the Berlin Music Board, a government-funded agency that 
promotes the city's music scene, said she is 
discussing funding a Detroit residency for German artists with officials in 
both cities. Ms. Lucker, a political appointee 
who wears Adidas high-tops and a Detroit Tigers jacket around town, said her 
trip to Detroit this May made her see the 
city as "a healing place" that would rejuvenate burnt-out artists. "People are 
jogging in the streets because there are no 
cars," she said. "It's so inspiring."

Detroit City Council Member Raquel Castaeda-Lpez, who met with Ms. Lucker and 
Mr. Hegemann while in Berlin recently, said 
she is "100% in support" of their projects.

Mr. Hegemann founded Tresor, one of the world's most famous techno-music clubs, 
in the abandoned bank vault beneath the 
bombed-out Wertheim department store after the fall of the Berlin Wall 25 years 
ago. He has since turned a former East 
Berlin power plant into an 86,000-square-foot event space. On the roof, he 
keeps 120,000 bees, whose honey he sells in the 
basement nightclub. "We call it Techno Honey--a natural energizer," he said.

For his next act, he is targeting Fisher Body 21. For the project, he has 
enlisted a Detroit real-estate developer, a 
Detroit architect and a Swiss foundation that helps redevelop abandoned 
buildings. Mr. Hegemann is confident the 
contamination issues can be overcome, but if not, he said he would turn his 
sights to the deserted Michigan Central 
Station in Detroit.

"The Germans' love of Detroit is palpable. When they were here it was expressed 
daily and often," said Walter Wasacz, a 
Detroit music journalist who is Mr. Hegemann's Motor City point man.

Detroit's view of the Germans isn't always as romantic.

Berlin gardener Erika Mayr is trying to get Detroiters to use vacant lots there 
for commercial beekeeping, arguing it 
would create jobs and improve neighborhoods. "Where there are bees, things are 
growing and getting more colorful and more 
happy," she said.

But after eight trips to Detroit in 10 years, she said no locals have bought 
in. "They say, 'If it's such a good idea, 
then why don't you come and do it?' "

Some Detroiters say that while they welcome the interest from Berlin, they 
discount any comparisons with their city, which 
faces far deeper problems of crime, race and economics. "They can provide 
inspiration," said Cornelius Harris, manager of 
25-year-old Detroit techno-music group Underground Resistance. "But there are 
issues in Berlin that people in Detroit wish 
they had. There's no real comparison."

Ed Siegel, the Detroit developer who is working with Mr. Hegemann, said that it 
is unclear if what Detroit needs is a 
techno club. "I have to balance the romanticized version of Detroit 
internationally with what people here actually want," 
he said.

In the control room of his former East Berlin power plant, where red leather 
sofas now accompany antique 7-foot computers, 
Mr. Hegemann showed off pictures of Fisher Body 21 and ticked off his ideas for 
the 536,000-square-foot abandoned factory: 
pop-up restaurant, art festival, startup co-working space, techno club.

Forget the look of the building, he said, "it's about the soul." To turn it 
into a techno club, Fisher Body 21 "just needs 
red lights and a kicking sound system."

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