yeah, air cooled
------ Original Message ------
From: "Jason McKemie" <j.mcke...@veloxinetbroadband.com>
To: "af@afmug.com" <af@afmug.com>
Sent: 7/12/2017 11:30:21 PM
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] OT: Road Trip Battery
You could always strap a generator to the roof...
On Wed, Jul 12, 2017 at 1:21 AM, Sterling Jacobson
<sterl...@avative.net> wrote:
I think the alternator is buried in my Toyota Sienna, so I’m not going
to mess with it, or a second battery I guess.
I’ll just live with the combined 100-120w restriction on all the
outlets in my car combined.
I suspect the alternate is bigger than norm just because of that
allowance given to the two AC plugs and DC plugs.
I might try and sneak in a 50W computer for serving videos. Or maybe
an Xbox One S that I think runs around 50-60W.
As long as the kids aren’t all charging their devices at the same
time, lol!
From: Af [mailto:af-boun...@afmug.com] On Behalf Of George Skorup
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 11:28 PM
To:af@afmug.com
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] OT: Road Trip Battery
Alternator rating = rotor speed, not engine RPM. Crankshaft pulley to
alternator pulley ratio is usually like 3:1. So 2k engine RPM = 6k
alternator RPM = max power. Probably varies by model/mfg. Yeah, idle
is usually gonna be a little bit less. A high-output alternator is the
better choice. You can screw around with pulley ratios for more power
at idle, but you run the risk of over-driving the alternator at higher
engine RPM. IIRC, ~18-20k RPM is ungood for it.
My '11 Silverado has a 145A alternator. Dual rectifiers. Maybe triple.
I forget. Idle=600 RPM. Still produces at least 110A based on my
clamp-on ammeter and a bad battery that always pulled about 90A.
Probably bad cells. Made it 7 years. New battery pulled around 100A
for 10 minutes or so to top it off. The typical commute of 15-30
minutes should be ample time to maintain a battery that's in decent
shape/age. The law of averages, that's what the auto mfgs aim for.
Most people don't need 180A at idle, just like most of our customers
don't need 1Gbps, or 100Mbps, all the time.. or ever.
On 7/11/2017 9:05 PM, Adam Moffett wrote:
My '04 Hyundai Accent has a 90 amp alternator. ....though I never
did figure out how many RPM's they assume when giving you that
rating. I read some conflicting facts on that.
Anyway, I have 1000 watt inverter and I've had approx 600 watts on it
while idling for several hours. I can't prove whether the alternator
kept up or the battery was slowly draining.
------ Original Message ------
From: ch...@wbmfg.com
To: "Animal Farm" <af@afmug.com>
Sent: 7/11/2017 8:49:23 PM
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] OT: Road Trip Battery
If you install the isolation diodes, then yes. But that only
prevents a dead starter battery. If you have 3-4 devices all using
50 watts, and you have a 50 amp alternator, you only have 600 watts
total. The air conditioner blower is going to take probably 200
watts, the onboard electronics perhaps 100 watts. So maybe 300
excess. I wouldn’t count on even that much. I have seen aux
connectors fused at 15 amps so that is 180 watts.
My dell has a 90 watt power supply. So two of those running non
stop?
From: Jaime Solorza
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 6:32 PM
To: Animal Farm
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] OT: Road Trip Battery
Not at all...Pep Boys and others sell a simple to install dual
battery inverter and heavy duty fuse system. A good quality
inverter would work well and no big thing to install. I use this
for wiring up inverters for vans and buses to a solenoid to start
inverter when vehicle is started. Prevents draining battery..
Jaime Solorza
On Jul 11, 2017 6:14 PM, "Sterling Jacobson" <sterl...@avative.net>
wrote:
I've got a cross country family trip from Utah to New York coming
up and I want to wire up a secondary battery to my Toyota Minivan.
I know, maybe I'm crazy, but I want to be able to run all our
electronics on the trip, including maybe a computer for serving up
video (another topic).
I want it on a secondary system so I get more power and don't kill
the main car battery.
From what I gather I would need a sealed battery to avoid fumes
(mostly).
I would need a some sort of control system so the battery can
charge from the alternator, but not drain the main battery.
I need high gage wire between the batteries/alternater along with
fuse, and also between secondary battery and large inverter for AC
power.
Probably not possible to shove another battery under the hood of
the mini-van, but I haven't checked.
Is this a silly idea?
