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This time allies, British troops back in Afghanistan
after 120 years

The Globe And Mail (Canada)

By SIMON DENYER
Reuters News Agency
Tuesday, March 26, 2002 

KABUL -- Their standards flying in the wind, thousands
of Afghan tribesmen screamed defiance from the peak of
Takht-e-Shah as British soldiers below fired shell
after shell at them.

"The enemy muster in great force and have 16 standards
flying," British witness Howard Hensman wrote on Dec.
12, 1879.

They "are of quite a different standard to those we
have hitherto had to deal with. They stood up boldly
to their flags, and waved their rifles and knives in
derision at each shot."

Today, many of the British troops who died in the
storming of Takht-e-Shah are buried in the quiet,
walled Sherpur cemetery in Kabul, in sight of the hill
where they fell.

After crushing the Afghan resistance, avenging the
massacre of a British expedition three months before
and putting a friendly king on the throne, General Sir
Frederick Roberts did not stay long in Afghanistan. He
left in 1881.

Now, for the first time in 120 years, British troops
are back in Kabul, this time as an ally to the interim
administration, heading an international force of
peacekeepers.

The British Army has helped to tidy up and restore the
cemetery at Sherpur and rebuild a wall struck by
mortar fire in the 1990s at the height of fighting
between rival Afghan warlords, which turned whole
swaths of Kabul into a wasteland.

British soldiers paid tribute last month to their
fallen comrades, playing The Last Post and saying
prayers at a private ceremony in the cemetery.

For Lieutenant-Colonel Neal Peckham of the
International Security Assistance Force, it was a
poignant moment.

Twenty-nine of the men who died in the storming of
Takht-e-Shah were from the 67th Foot (South
Hampshire), a predecessor of his own Princess of
Wales' Royal Regiment.

In a country ravaged by 23 years of war and just
emerging from harsh Taliban rule, it is perhaps ironic
that their gravestones should have been destroyed not
by man but by weather.

There are 158 British soldiers buried in the cemetery,
but a severe frost in 1978 broke most of their
headstones.

Today, a small memorial in the southern wall, recently
repainted and restored by British troops, preserves
the fragments of the 10 gravestones that have survived
the ravages of time.

Among them, many of the 29 casualties from the 67th
Foot are remembered on a single jagged tablet.
Remembered too is Major John Cook, holder of the
Victoria Cross. Major Cook won his VC the year before,
after saving a fellow officer during hand-to-hand
combat.

On Dec. 12, he took a bullet below the knee during the
storming of Takht-e-Shah, and died the following day.
He was 36.

Lieutenant John Rumball Hearsay's name is there too,
half scratched away but still recognizable. Military
records show he took a bullet through the heart as the
9th Lancers charged "to save the guns at Killa Kazi"
near Kabul.

Britain's experience in Afghanistan in the 19th
century was far from glorious.

Its efforts to subdue the country and close off a
possible route for Russia to invade India twice ended
in disaster.

In 1842, a column of 16,000 British and Indian troops,
wives, children, servants and assorted hangers-on were
massacred by Afghan tribesmen in the Khyber Pass.

In September, 1879, a British force under Major Louis
Cavagnari was slaughtered in Kabul itself. In both
cases, only a handful of survivors lived to tell the
tale.

Gen. Roberts's force avenged that slaughter later that
year, hanging nearly 100 Afghans in what one officer
described as "a long, grim row of gallows."

It was an action that was to turn every Afghan against
the British, and despite Gen. Roberts's military
victories, make a permanent presence in the country
unthinkable.

Before the British returned last year, Sherpur
cemetery lay half-forgotten, tended for the past 16
years by an old man called Rahimullah, who looked
after the graves of the few dozen mainly Europeans
buried there, among them Russians, Germans, Italians
and Poles.

Rahimullah said he had not been paid for 18 months
before the fall of the Taliban regime last year.
Occasionally, when religious police came to ask why he
kept foreigners' graves, he would explain that he had
no other work.

Most visitors, Rahimullah says, come to gaze at the
grave of Sir Mark Aurel Stein, a Hungarian-born
archeologist and explorer who spent most of his life
in the service of the British Empire and later became
a British citizen.

Sir Mark has been described as one of the greatest but
least-known archeologists of the 20th century -- and,
alternatively, as a raider who plundered Chinese
Turkistan and Central Asia of some of its most
important ancient treasures.

 
 

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