In Teeming India, Water Crisis Means Dry Pipes and Foul Sludge

By SOMINI SENGUPTA

Published: September 29, 2006


NEW DELHI, Sept. 28 - The quest for water can drive a woman mad.
Thirsty Giant
First of three articles.
Articles in this series examine India's growing water crisis. 
Saturday: Farmers' wells are running dry. Sunday: Floods and how to 
harvest ample rains.


Ask Ritu Prasher. Every day, Mrs. Prasher, a homemaker in a 
middle-class neighborhood of this capital, rises at 6:30 a.m. and 
begins fretting about water.

It is a rare morning when water trickles through the pipes. More 
often, not a drop will come. So Mrs. Prasher will have to call a 
private water tanker, wait for it to show up, call again, wait some 
more and worry about whether enough buckets are filled in the 
bathroom in case no water arrives.

"Your whole day goes just planning how you'll get water," a weary 
Mrs. Prasher, 45, recounted one morning this summer, cellphone in 
hand and ready to press redial for the water tanker. "You become so 
edgy all the time."

In the richest city in India, with the nation's economy marching 
ahead at an enviable clip, middle-class people like Mrs. Prasher are 
reduced to foraging for water. Their predicament testifies to the 
government's astonishing inability to deliver the most basic services 
to its citizens at a time when India asserts itself as a global power.

The crisis, decades in the making, has grown as fast as India in 
recent years. A soaring population, the warp-speed sprawl of cities, 
and a vast and thirsty farm belt have all put new strains on a 
feeble, ill-kept public water and sanitation network.

The combination has left water all too scarce in some places, 
contaminated in others and in cursed surfeit for millions who are 
flooded each year. Today the problems threaten India's ability to 
fortify its sagging farms, sustain its economic growth and make its 
cities healthy and habitable. At stake is not only India's economic 
ambition but its very image as the world's largest democracy.

  "If we become rich or poor as a nation, it's because of water," said 
Sunita Narain, director of the Center for Science and Environment in 
New Delhi.

Conflicts over water mirror the most vexing changes facing India: the 
competing demands of urban and rural areas, the stubborn divide 
between rich and poor, and the balance between the needs of a 
thriving economy and a fragile environment.

New Delhi's water woes are typical of those of many Indian cities. 
Nationwide, the urban water distribution network is in such disrepair 
that no city can provide water from the public tap for more than a 
few hours a day.

An even bigger problem than demand is disposal. New Delhi can neither 
quench its thirst, nor adequately get rid of the ever bigger heaps of 
sewage that it produces. Some 45 percent of the population is not 
connected to the public sewerage system.

Those issues are amplified nationwide. More than 700 million Indians, 
or roughly two-thirds of the population, do not have adequate 
sanitation. Largely for lack of clean water, 2.1 million children 
under the age of 5 die each year, according to the United Nations.

The government says that 9 out of 10 Indians have access to the 
public water supply, but that may include sources that are going dry 
or are contaminated.

The World Bank, in rare agreement with Ms. Narain, warned in a report 
published last October that India stood on the edge of "an era of 
severe water scarcity."

"Unless dramatic changes are made - and made soon - in the way in 
which government manages water," the World Bank report concluded, 
"India will have neither the cash to maintain and build new 
infrastructure, nor the water required for the economy and for 
people."

The window to address the crisis is closing. Climate change is 
expected only to exacerbate the problems by causing extreme bouts of 
weather - heat, deluge or drought.

A River of Waste

The fabled Yamuna River, on whose banks this city was born more than 
2,000 years ago, is a case study in the water management crisis 
confronting India.

In Hindu mythology, the Yamuna is considered to be a river that fell 
from heaven to earth. Today, it is a foul portrait of crippled 
infrastructure - and yet, still worshiped. From the bridges that soar 
across the river, the faithful toss coins and sweets, lovingly 
wrapped in plastic. They scatter the ashes of their dead.

In New Delhi the Yamuna itself is clinically dead.

As the Yamuna enters the capital, still relatively clean from its 
246-mile descent from atop the Himalayas, the city's public water 
agency, the New Delhi Jal Board, extracts 229 million gallons every 
day from the river, its largest single source of drinking water.

As the Yamuna leaves the city, it becomes the principal drain for New 
Delhi's waste. Residents pour 950 million gallons of sewage into the 
river each day.

  Coursing through the capital, the river becomes a noxious black 
thread. Clumps of raw sewage float on top. Methane gas gurgles on the 
surface.

It is hardly safe for fish, let alone bathing or drinking. A 
government audit found last year that the level of fecal coliform, 
one measure of filth, in the Yamuna was 100,000 times the safe limit 
for bathing.

In 1992, a retired Indian Navy officer who once sailed regattas on 
the Yamuna took his government to the Supreme Court. The retired 
officer, Sureshwar D. Sinha, charged that the state had killed the 
Yamuna and violated his constitutional right, as a practicing Hindu, 
to perform ritual baths in the river.

  Since then, the Supreme Court ordered the city's water authority to 
treat all sewage flowing into the river and improve water quality. In 
14 years, that command is still unmet.

New Delhi's population, now 16 million, has expanded by roughly 41 
percent in the last 15 years, officials estimate. As the number of 
people living - and defecating - in the city soars, on average more 
than half of the sewage they pour into the river goes untreated.

A government audit last year indicted the Jal Board for having spent 
$200 million and yielding "very little value." The construction of 
more sewage treatment plants has done little to stanch the flow, in 
part because sewage lines are badly clogged and because power 
failures leave them inoperable for hours at a time.

"It has not improved at all because the quantity of sewage is 
constantly increasing," said R. C. Trivedi, a director of the Central 
Pollution Control Board, which monitors the quality of the Yamuna 
River. "The gap is continually widening."

Making matters worse, many New Delhi neighborhoods, like Janata 
Colony - Hindi for People's Colony - are not even connected to sewage 
pipes. Open sewers hem the narrow lanes of the slum. Every alley 
carries their stench.

Some canals are so clogged with trash and sludge that they are no 
more than green-black ribbons of muck. It is a mosquitoes' paradise. 
Malaria and dengue fever are regular visitors.

Not long ago, a 2-year-old boy named Arman Mustakeem fell into one 
such canal and drowned. His parents said they found him floating in 
the open sewer in front of their home.

These canals empty into a wide storm drain. It, in turn, runs through 
the eastern edges of the city, raking in more sewage and cascades of 
trash, before it merges with effluent from two sewage treatment 
plants, and finally, enters the Yamuna.

Carrying the capital's waste on its back, the Yamuna meanders south 
to cities like Mathura and Agra, home to the Taj Mahal. It is their 
principal source of drinking water, too. New Delhi's downstream 
neighbors are forced to treat the water heavily, hiking up the cost.

With New Delhi slated to host the Commonwealth Games in 2010, the 
government proposes to remake this riverfront with a sports and 
recreation complex. In the meantime, the Yamuna, vital and befouled 
as it is, bears the weight of New Delhi's ambitions.

At dawn each morning, men sink into the still, black waters to 
retrieve whatever can be bartered or sold: rings from a dead man's 
finger, coins dropped by the faithful, the remnants of rubber 
sandals, plastic water bottles.

The dhobis, who launder clothes, line up on one stretch of riverbank, 
pounding saris and bedsheets on stone tablets. A man shovels sand 
from the river bottom: every bullock cart he fills for a cement maker 
will fetch him a coveted $5.50. Men and boys bathe.

"This river is worshiped," said a bewildered Sunny Verma, 24. "Is 
this the right way of worshiping it?"

So shaken was Mr. Verma on his first visit to the Yamuna this year 
that he now works full time to shake up others. He joined an 
environmental group called We for Yamuna.

"If you want to worship the river, you should give it more respect," 
he said. "You should treat it the right way. You should question the 
government. You should ask the state to actually do something for the 
river."

Deluge and Drought

Mrs. Prasher has the misfortune of living in a neighborhood on New 
Delhi's poorly served southern fringe.

As the city's water supply runs through a 5,600-mile network of 
battered public pipes, 25 to 40 percent leaks out. By the time it 
reaches her, there is hardly enough.

On average, she gets no more than 13 gallons a month from the tap and 
a water bill from the water board that fluctuates from $6 to $20, at 
its whimsy, she complains, since there is never a meter reading 
anyway.

That means she has to look for other sources, scrimp and scavenge to 
meet her family's water needs.

She buys an additional 265 gallons from private tankers, for roughly 
$20 a month. On top of that she pays $2.50 toward the worker who 
pipes water from a private tube-well she and other residents of her 
apartment block have installed in the courtyard.

Nearly a fourth of New Delhi households, according to the government 
commissioned Delhi Human Development Report, rely at least in some 
part on such wells. It is one of the principal reasons groundwater in 
New Delhi is drying up faster than virtually anywhere in the country: 
78 percent of it is considered overexploited.

Still, the new posh apartment buildings sprouting across New Delhi 
and its suburbs sell themselves by ensuring a 24-hour water supply - 
usually by drilling wells deep underground. "Imagine never being 
thirsty for water," boasts a newspaper advertisement for one new 
development.

Warning of "an unparalleled water crisis," the study released in 
August found that 25 percent of New Delhi households had no access to 
piped water, and that 27 percent got water for less than three hours 
a day. Nearly two million households, the report also found, had no 
toilet.

The daily New Delhi hustle for water only adds to the strains on the 
public system.

A few years ago, for instance, to compensate for the low water 
pressure in the public pipeline, Mrs. Prasher and her neighbors began 
tapping directly into the public water main with so-called booster 
pumps, each one sucking out as much water as possible.

It was a me-first approach to a limited and unreliable public 
resource, and it proliferated across this me-first city, each booster 
pump further draining the water supply.

The situation for New Delhi, and all of India, is only expected to 
worsen. India now uses an estimated 829 billion cubic yards of water 
every year - that is more than guzzling an entire Lake Erie. But its 
water needs are growing by leaps. By 2050, official projections 
indicate, demand will more than double, and exceed the 1.4 trillion 
cubic yards that India has at its disposal.

Yet the most telling paradox of the city's water crisis is that New 
Delhi is not entirely lacking in water. The problem is distribution, 
hampered by a feeble infrastructure and a lack of resources, concedes 
Arun Mathur, chief executive of the Jal Board.

The Jal Board estimates that consumers pay no more than 40 percent of 
the actual cost of water. Raising the rates is unrealistic for now, 
as Mr. Mathur well knows. "It would be easier to ask people to pay up 
more if we can make water abundantly available," he said. A proposal 
to privatize water supply in some neighborhoods met with stiff 
opposition last year and was dropped.

So the city's pipe network remains a punctured mess. That means, like 
most everything else in this country, some people have more than 
enough, and others too little.

The slums built higgledy-piggledy behind Mrs. Prasher's neighborhood 
have no public pipes at all. The Jal Board sends tankers instead. The 
women here waste their days waiting for water, and its arrival sets 
off desperate wrestling in the streets.

Kamal Krishnan quit her job for the sake of securing her share. Five 
days a week, she would clean offices in the next neighborhood. Five 
nights a week, she would go home to find no water at home. The 
buckets would stand empty. Finally, her husband ordered her to quit. 
And wait.

  "I want to work, but I can't," she said glumly. "I go mad waiting for water."

Elsewhere, in the central city, where the nation's top politicians 
have their official homes, the average daily water supply is three 
times what finally arrives even in Mrs. Prasher's neighborhood.

Mrs. Prasher rations her water day to day as if New Delhi were a 
desert. She uses the leftover water from the dog bowl to water the 
plants. She recycles soapy water from the laundry to mop the balcony.

And even when she gets it, the quality is another question altogether.

Her well water has turned salty as it has receded over the years. The 
water from the private tanker is mucky-brown. Still, Mrs. Prasher 
says, she can hardly afford to reject it. "Beggars can't be 
choosers," she said. "It's water."

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