This from the Sentinel/ cm

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The Hindutva Campaign

Tavleen Singh

It amused me to come back from Varanasi last week and find those five star
generals of Hindutva - Ashok Singhal and Praveen. Togadia - at it again.
This time via audio cassette so if you're in the mood for Hindutva you can
now have instant replay. Well, let me say this, if Singhal and Togadia had
listened in to some of the conversations I had with devout Hindus in that
holiest of our holy cities last week they would have been more circumspect
about launching a new Hindutva campaign at this point. It is unlikely to go
down well.

Allow me to describe only two of the conversations I had. The first was
with the son of a former Mahant of the Vishwanath Mandir. He is as devout a
Hindu as I know but when I asked what he thought about the Ayodhya issue he
had this to say. 'Who do these people think they are? Will one of them
explain what it is they destroyed in Ayodhya? Was it a mosque or a temple?
As far as I see it there was a temple in which Ram-lalla was being
worshipped and that temple no longer exists. Can we trust the same fellows
who broke it down to build another one now?

He added that under a so-called Hindutva Prime Minister he had seen two
ancient Hindu temples in Varanasi torn down recently in the name of a
'beautification' drive that has the sanction of our Tourism Minister, the
unstoppable Mr Jagmohan. What sort of beautification can there be, he
asked, that involves the demolition of a ancient temples?

My next conversation was with Veerbhadra Misra, the venerable Mahant of the
Sankat Mochan temple, a man so revered in Varanasi that the devout believe
that to touch him is to touch Hanuman himself. Mahantji is a deeply unhappy
man these days because he cannot believe what is being done to his beloved
Ganga on a BJP Prime Minister's watch. Long before Rajiv Gandhi's
Government discovered the need for a Ganga Action Plan, Mahantji, a
scientist himself, had pointed out that the river was so polluted that its
waters were septic in some parts. When he heard that more than Rs 200 crore
were being spent on the Ganga Action Plan he spent time studying it and
discovered, to his horror, that it was unlikely to make any difference
because it would not stop sewage pouring into the river.

Nobody listened to him, because Indian officials listen only to God, so the
money got spent and the water of the Ganga remains as unclean as it was
before the crores were spent. Mahantji points out that the only way to
clean the river is by diverting the sewage that pours into it instead of
trying to treat it en route. He has a plan to do this that would cost half
what the second phase of the Ganga Action Plan will and, most importantly,
the municipality of Varanasi has approved it but on account of stubborn
resistance from the Central government and the Government of Uttar Pradesh
a dispute has arisen that has been in court for more than ten years. "If we
cannot save the Ganga" Mahantji says with tears in his eyes "then we will
lose all the things that make us what we are and this globalization will
reduce us to being just like everybody else. We are an endangered species."

We speak in a room whose small, barred windows overlook the Ganga. Its
water is iridescent in the light of a mother-of-pearl tinted dusk, temple
bells sound from somewhere close and from a distance the start of the
evening worship of the river. From where we sit Varanasi, the Ganga and
Indian civilization seem as perfectly intact as ever but the minute I step
out of the Sankat Mochan temple into a narrow street filled with stray
goats and cows I recoil from the stench of rotting garbage, clogged drains
and sewage. As I walk back towards my enchanting little hotel on the Assi
Ghat I find myself picking my way through mounds of excrement, both human
and animal. The stench mixes easily with the general smell of decay and
death that pervades Varanasi.

Those who love this city fear that it is in terminal decline and that no
matter what anyone does any more it is already too late. And into this
atmosphere of decay and despair has walked Jagmohan with ideas of
improvement that only he seems to fully understand. So, in an attempt to
deal with the garbage problem he ordered the building of four or five
garbage centres which would have made sense if they were equipped with
incinerators.

Since they are not, though, the end result of this exercise is that now you
not only see garbage rotting in the narrow, medieval bye-lanes of this
ancient city you also see it rotting in cavernous sheds. Does it make
sense? No. And, it would make even less sense if you had spent time
watching rickety wheelbarrows trundle up to these garbage-filled sheds in
an attempt to clean them out. The end result is that Varanasi now has more
garbage instead of less.

Jagmohan's intentions for the city are good. He wants it declared a
Heritage site so that funds can come in from abroad to save one of the
oldest cities in human history. This is a very good idea but surely we need
to begin by setting up a system that would clean Varanasi and preserve its
medieval streets and ancient buildings? If Jagmohan has any plans for this
there is no evidence of them yet so you walk to the most famous of temples
to Shiva - the Vishvanath Mandir - through streets so dirty that all
thoughts of worship and spirituality become infected with the stench of
excrement. It was while walking towards the temple that I heard from local
residents of plant to 'widen the road' so that important officials could
drive up in their cars. I was not able to verify whether there was any
truth in this but if there is then you can be sure that Varanasi is likely
to die even sooner.

Even as someone who does not think of myself as a devout Hindu I find this
heartbreaking. I find equally heartbreaking that despite the failure of the
first phase of the Ganga Action Plan, hundreds of crores of rupees will now
be spent on phase 2. We have a right to ask what is going on and we have a
right to ask those who think of themselves as the guardian angels of
Hindutva why they are wasting so much time on building new temples when our
most sacred city is falling to pieces and our most sacred river is being
slowly destroyed.

The only time I had the dubious pleasure of interviewing Togadia I asked
him this question and the only answer he could come up with was that I had
no right to ask about the Ganga because I was a 'secularist'.

Well, it is no longer just me who is asking this question there are many
devout Hindus asking it now and when you look at people like Singhal and
Togadia from a Varanasi vantage point they look really bad. In the two days
I spent wandering around the city, I did not meet anyone who had a good
word to say for either Hindutva or the Bharatiya Janata Party. Quite the
opposite. I met a lot of people who said that the BJP's image had been
damaged by its association with rabble-rousing groups who failed to see
that Ayodhya was no longer an issue. If we cannot save Varanasi, if we
cannot clean the waters of the Ganga, does it really matter if there is a
new temple to Rama?


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