On the trail of an
intrepid adventurer
French explorer Chevaliar’s memoirs
shed light on the life in 18th century
Eastern India, writes Utpal Borpujari
 
For nearly 150 years, it lay hidden from public view, until it was discovered 
at the Bibliotheque de l’institue, Paris in 1926. Another 62 years passed 
before French scholar Jean Deloche restored, edited and got it published in 
1984 through the French School of Asian Studies (EFFO), Paris. And finally, 
now, the “Adventures of Jean-Baptiste Chevalier in Eastern India (1752-1765)”, 
a highly-interesting account of the governor of the French enclave 
Chandennagore in present-day West Bengal during 1767-78, has become accessible 
to the people in India, thanks to a Normandy-born financial expert whose 
interest to translate the account into English got stoked by primarily by the 
fact that she got married to an Assamese family.
                  Chevalier, who was known for his adventurous trait, travelled 
extensively in Assam, Bengal and Tibet, and his first-person accounts, despite 
being historically important for the simple fact that his was one of the 
earliest about these regions from the viewpoint of an outsider, lay virtually 
unknown to the outside world for such a long period. And that was exactly what 
attracted the attention of Caroline Dutta-Baruah, incidentally married to the 
family that owns LBS Publications, one of the oldest publishing houses of Assam 
that has brought out, in collaboration with EFEO, the English translation done 
by her and Deloche.
                  It was the historical relevance of the long-lost account that 
caught the immediate attention of Dutta-Baruah, as also the sense of adventure 
that it brought in. “Chevalier had clear instruction to discover the fabled 
riches of Assam.  In those days, the French had a very vague idea of the land 
but it was fabled to be very rich and hold a strong potential for trade.  The 
wool, silk, gold, ivory that came from there had been intriguing them for a 
while.  Its close proximity with Tibet, China and Burma made it attractive as a 
potential trading hub, and Chevalier had been instructed to confirm these 
reports and if they turned out to be true, to try by all means to get allowance 
for a plot of land there and build a French lodge. The travels to Tibet were 
with the same motive, to enter China through Tibet and explore the riches of 
China,” she says.
                  As the book reveals, Chevalier’s description of places and 
people are clearly not the writings of a poet or a creative writer, but it 
brings out the sense of life in the areas he visited. “When it boils down to 
business and especially when someone tried to interfere with his work, a sudden 
burst of energy prompted him to write in a very incisive and aggressive 
manner.  It is interesting to note how he would indulge in paying off the 
officers or try to please them and yet grumble about their corruption. He was 
an out and out adventurer, braving the Brahmaputra to reach Assam and then 
embarking on the tedious journey to Tibet,” Dutta-Baruah says about the man 
whose two two manuscripts - “Journals of my travels in Assam” and “Historical 
memoir from my arrival in India in 1752 to date” – were combined by Deloche in 
the version restored from papers donated by one Henri Cordier to the 
Bibliotheque de
 l’institut, Paris in 1926. Cordier had in turn got the papers from the family 
of Chevalier De Conan, a descendent of Chevalier. 
                              As she translated the work, Dutta-Baruah found 
that Chevalier had the habit of going into details of whatever he saw or 
experienceed.  “These descriptions are by themselves very important for 
intricate historical research as well as for light reading,” she says, 
particularly mentioning the descriptions of the palace of Ahom king Rajesvara 
Singha, the Kamakhya temple and the hunting expeditions.  “The monarch’s 
attitude towards foreigners has also been portrayed in detail, providing a 
background to the mindset of 18th century Assamese society.  The wealth, the 
lavish lifestyle yet the inherent simplicity of the royalty and upper class 
society comes to light from the account,” she details.
                  Another aspect that interested her was the peep she got from 
the accounts into the modus operandi of the French and the British as they set 
about expanding their bases in India. “We can arrive at the conclusion from his 
descriptions that the English had definitely invested more in their efforts in 
India than the French,” she says. 
(Published in Sakaal Times, www.sakaaltimes.com, on 13th Sept, 2008)


      

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