You have done pretty well at describing the rule. The threaded rod is six and a half inches long. The large rectangular nut is the one you most commonly use for measuring. The other nut is used when/if you want to lock the rectangular nut into place to hold a measure or even to use it as a sort of monster feeler gauge.
You should notice a small notch cut into one of the longer sides of the rectangular nut, this is to help orient it. You are correct, the half inch marks are where a thread is continued all around the face of the milled side of the threaded rod. Each revolution of the nut represents one sixteenth of an inch so, half a turn is a 32nd of an inch and a quarter turn is a 64th. two complete turns is an eighth of an inch and so on. If you require more than 6 inches then you thread the 6 inch rod bringing your measure up as far as 12 and a half inches, add the 12 inch rod or the 18 inch rod or any combination there of and you have the lengths you require. What I really like about the measure is that I can set a size off of a plan or I can take a measure from a project, lock the nut into place then go to my miter saw and pressing the end of the rod against the blade, adjust the wood to be cut until it is flush with the nut and cut an exact size. I frequently end up with a bit of a bruise on my chin from holding the saw down against the board, I do have a bungee cord hanging on the cabinet I can use to hold the saw down to the wood while I set the distance precisely but this takes time and I often don't bother. I can as easily use it to very accurately set the distance from rip fence to blade on my table saw and so on. This is of course not adequate beyond 42 and a half inches although I suppose you could get more rod if you need or want it. I do try to keep a stick or two around here precisely 4 feet long but rarely do I need it. Even when I raised this addition it was mostly fine to use the dimensional lumber and/or relative measures with a locking tape measure. I used a block to space studs, locking tape measure to determine the actual length of span for building the roof trusses, I didn't actually even have the roto ruler back then but a folding meter stick ruler. A tactile ruler though just isn't accurate enough for cabinet work and hardly for structural framing. Things like carpenter squares known to be 24 on the two inch leg and 16 on the inch and a half leg can also be helpful in frame construction. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Howell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 6:00 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] quesion on Rotomatic ruler > Ok folks, I ordered my Rotomatic and received it today. Ain't quite > what I imagined and upon further thought, I haven't any clue how the > hell you use this thing. So, here goes my question . > First let me describe what I have to be sure we're all on the same page. > > I have a piece about six inches long, it is sort of oval shaped, in > other words, its flat on both sides and is rounded on the edges so > the nuts will turn. The top surface has marking at every half inch I > believe this is the correct measurement,b ut in any case, we'll move > along. There are two nuts, one that is completely square and the > other is a six or eight-sided deal. Included are three rods that are > different lengths, one six inch, one approx 12 inches, and one that > appears to be about 18 inches. Sorry, I haven't even had a chance to > measure the pieces, but for our purposes, this will explain things. > Now each rod which is round can be screwed together and the six-inch > piece I said had the nuts is also able to be attached to the rods. > Now I assume that the square nut might be the locking nut, but don't > hold me to this. > Now, with that description, how do you actually use this thing. > The folks at the NFB store where I found the item were not much help, > but I guess they sell the stuff, not use it. So, perhaps someone can > explain this thing to me before I decide to pack it up and send it on > back up the road. Might be a great tool, but based on what I thought, > I surely have no clue how you'd use it. > Thanks for any assistance. > > Scott > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html > or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is. > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ > > Visit the new archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.1.410 / Virus Database: 268.16.7/618 - Release Date: 6/01/2007 > > To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is. http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the new archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! 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