Michael, Harbor Freight has a nice self-centering doweling jig as well as a few other dowel jigs. I use them and they work well. If you are not near a Harbor Freight, you can order from the web site or on the phone.
earlier, Michael Baldwin, wrote: >ray, >thanks, this is helpful information. I am still leaning towards building my >own cabinets. We went to Menards and checked out the Georgetown RTA >cabinets. They didn't have all the cabinets that we needed, and getting >help at Menards is like a blind guy driving truck for a living. We have >heard good things about the Mill's Pride RTA cabinets sold at Home Depot, >but the closest HD is 200 miles away, and once again they don't have some >cabinet options we want. > >So now it is a choice of frame, or frameless cabinets. I have built a >changing table for my daughter that is face frame, so I am thinking of >sticking with what I know. I have acquired a floor standing drill press >since then, so the face frames would be assembled with dowels. I just need >to locate a doweling jig, unless anyone knows how to make one. > >The problem I am running into is how to build the corner cabinets. I can't >locate free plans on the internet, and my wife wants a lazy Suzan. I want >the corner cabinets to be at a right angle in the front, not one of those >that go diagonally across. >Thanks >Michael > >_____ > >From: ><mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] >On Behalf Of Ray Boyce >Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 13:20 >To: <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] >Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cabinetry Anatomy > >Hi All > >Recently there was a list member going to build some kitchen cupboards here >is some information on this subject. >Regardless of whether you are building a stereo cabinet or dresser, a >kitchen cabinet or bathroom vanity, basic cabinet construction is the same. >A cabinet >or furniture piece consists of the carcass or case with two sides, bottom >and top, a back and a front. The front may contain drawers, doors or shelves >or combinations of the three. Several variations may be used in the >construction. > >The carcass construction can be separated into three types: leg-and-rail, >frame-and-panel, and box or case. Leg-and-rail construction is found on >chairs, >tables, benches, stools and on some furniture such as chests. > >Frame-and-panel construction is used to make up the component parts of many >types of furniture including the sides, doors and interior web frames with >dust >panels that are used on many fine, hand-built pieces of furniture. > >Box or case construction is the basic design of dressers, buffets, desks and > >chests, as well as kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities. > >The simplest case construction is a box made of plywood. These can be >softwood or hardwood plywood, and they can be painted or stained and >varnished. Particle >board, finished on one or two sides, is a common material for construction >of some cabinetry. A case can also be constructed of solid wood, but these >days >solid wood is used only on small pieces or for extremely fine furniture. > >The simplest cabinetry is a box construction such as a kitchen cabinet. >Shown is the typical construction dimensions of an applied-facer kitchen >cabinet >base. > >Kitchen Cabinet Case Construction > >Both upper and lower cabinets have the same basic construction details. On >the lower cabinet, the first step is to cut the two sides. Incidentally, you >can construct a custom kitchen cabinet to fit any space, rather than the >small individual sections joined as with purchased cabinetry. Or you can >make >up smaller units and join them in the same fashion. If a side is to be >concealed against a wall, that side can be made of more economical plywood. >The >exposed side should be cut from a good hardwood- or smooth softwood-surfaced > >plywood. > >This is the typical construction of an upper kitchen cabinet with applied >facer. > >The following is the simplest method of constructing, using glue and finish >nails that are then set below the surface and the holes filled with wood >putty. >Cut a 1/4-by-1/4-inch rabbet in the inside back edge of each side piece for >the cabinet back. The bottom shelf is raised above the floor on most >cabinets >to create a "toe-space" or kick board. Locate the position of the bottom on >the side pieces and mark the kick board cut-out on each cabinet side. Cut >using >a saber saw. > >In most instances the bottom front facer is 1-inch in width, allowing for a >1/4-inch lip to protrude down into the toe space. Mark this location and >then >use a carpenter's square to mark a line for the bottom. Cut the bottom >1/4-inch narrower than the sides, and then fasten the bottom in place with >glue >and finish nails, making sure it is aligned with the squared marks. Install >a nailing-strip at the top back. Cut this to fit between the two sides and >fasten in place with glue and finish nails. Cut the back to the correct size > >from 1/4-inch plywood or hardboard and, with the case lying face down, lay >the back in place. Use a carpenter's square to make sure the case is square, > >and then fasten the back in place with 1/2-inch staples and an air nailer, >or with 3/4-inch coated nails. > >First step is to assemble the basic box, in this case of plywood, with glue >and screws or nails. > >Cut the side facers first. Apply glue to the case edge. > >Turn the case upright and you're ready to install the facings. Cut and >install any dividers of shelves. The simplest method, especially for overlap > >doors, >is to install veneer tape over the plywood edges. These edges must first, >however, be sanded smooth. A more traditional method is to install >individual >facer strips over the front edges of the case. These normally fit flush with > >the outside edges of the case, but overlap the inside edges. > >Cut the two side casings first, fitting them flush with the upper end of the > >sides and the lower edge of the toe space. Fasten these in place with glue >and No. 6 finish nails. Then cut the lower facer to fit between the two side > >facers, ensuring the correct width to match the top edge of the bottom shelf >and the bottom edges of the toe spaces on the sides. To cut to length, cut >one end smooth and square, then hold it in place and use a sharp pencil >again this was written for sighted people adapt what works for you to mark >the length. Cut the pieces square using a fine-toothed blade in a radial arm > >saw. Glue in place and fasten with No. 6 finish nails into the case-bottom >edge. Use No. 8 finish nails through the side facings into the sides to >further secure in place. Cut the top facing in the same manner, ripping to >width, >and then cutting to length. All facers should have their edges jointed >smooth. > >Align the facer flush with the case edge and fasten in place with finish >nails. > >Set the nail heads slightly below the wood surface. > >Then measure the upper facer to fit precisely between the two side facers. > >In this case the top facing is fastened between the two side facings with >glue and No. 8 finish nails through the edges of the side facings into the >ends >of the top facing. If the cabinet has drawers, cut facers and install in the > >same manner. Cut door and drawer dividers to fit between the drawer bottom >facer or facers and the upper or lower facer as needed. These can be >anchored in place with toenail-driven, self-starting wood screws in >countersunk holes, >with glue and finish nails, or with glue blocks from the backside. Wood >strips 3/4-by-1 1/2-inches are fastened inside the front and back, and to >the sides >at the top for anchoring a countertop in place. > >Use a fine-toothed saw and make a square cut so there is no opening in the >joint. > >Nail the top facer in place, and then install the bottom facer in the same >manner. > >Install the divider facers in the same manner. > >Anchor the ends of the facers with No. 8 finish nails through their mating >facers. > >At this point the cabinet bottom is ready to be installed. If plumbing is to > >be installed for a sink, and electrical connections for a disposal are >needed, >measure and cut the openings at this time. Then place the cabinet in >position. The cabinet must be level in all directions. Use a four-foot level > >to determine >level and wood shingles as shims to ensure a level unit. Locate the studs in > >the wall and fasten the cabinet in place with screws through the rear top >nailing strip. The cabinet back can also be fastened to the wall with screws > >into the studs. Build the countertop and install. > >Upper cabinets are constructed in the same basic manner, using box or case >construction for the sides, bottom and a 3/4-inch plywood top. In this case >the >sides, top and bottom all have 1/4-by-1/4-inch rabbets ripped in their >inside edges for the plywood or hardboard back. The facings are cut and >installed >in the same manner. Upper cabinets are anchored to the wall with a nailer >strip at the top and through the back into the studs, as well as with screws >through the back into the studs. Homemade cabinet jacks of 2-by-4's with >shingle wedges can be used to temporarily hold the upper case up in position > >and >help level and plumb it until you can get it fastened solidly in place. > >Set the nails slightly below the surface. > >Then fill all nail holes flush with wood putty. > >Vertical facers are often anchored with counterbored screws from the inside >edges. > >A more intricate form of construction involves creating a facing frame of >mortise and tenons joints. The front facing frame is then anchored to the >case >sides, top and bottom with glue blocks and countersunk wood screws from the >inside or with glue and biscuit joints. This totally eliminates the nail >holes >that must be filled and is the best method for fine furniture cases. > >Fine furniture often consists of a case with an assembled facer frame >fastened over the front edge of the case. Mitered corners add to the fine >construction. > >Another form of construction consists of legs-and-rails with panels. The >legs-and-rails are assembled with mortise-and-tenon or dowel joints. The >panels >are held in rabbets. > >Frame-and-Panel Construction > >With this type of construction, the corner posts of the assembly, which may >also be the assembly legs, are fitted with panels. The frame consists of >rails >and stiles fastened together with mortise and tenons or dowels. The corner >posts or stiles may be rabbeted or dadoed to accept the panels, or the >panels >may be held in place with dowels or biscuits. This is a very popular method >of constructing small chests and tables, as well as larger pieces of fine >furniture. >The panel may be constructed of thinner, or thicker, stock that is shaped at > >the edges. > >The inside framing on built-ins and simple furniture can consist of shelving > >standards with adjustable wooden shelves, or wooden shelf strips can be used >to support permanently located shelves. Drawers can use metal slide systems. > >On fine cabinetry and furniture, however, the inside construction is as >important >as the outside because the inside framing not only provides for drawers and >shelves, but also provides strength. Drawers are often supported by inside >wooden partitions called web frames. Solid stock or plywood may be used, but > >they add a great deal of weight. Open frames are commonly used. If the >frames >are fitted with thin wood panels they are called dust panels. Dust-panels >and web-frames are marks of quality furniture. They are always used on desks >or bureaus with locked drawers; otherwise you could remove an upper drawer >and get into the contents of the drawer below it. > >Many fine furniture constructions use web frames with dust panels between >the drawers. > >These frames are normally assembled with mortise-and-tenon joints, and with >dadoes for the thin wooden dust panels. The web frames may be held in place >with glue and nails or screws. More often, the frames are fitted into >rabbets or dadoes in the sides of the case and glue blocks used for support >under >the frame pieces at the back. Although the dadoes in the sides of the case >could be the full thickness of the frame pieces, it is best to rabbet the >frame >edges and cut a narrower dado joint to provide more gluing surface and a >stronger joint. A dovetail joint is the strongest for this type of unit; >however, >the frames must slide in from the front. When a frame-and-panel construction > >is used for the sides of the case as well, the web frame may be fitted with >stub mortise-and-tenons. > >If the front edge of the frame is also to act as a drawer-front facing, it >is covered with hardwood to match the exterior of the project. Otherwise the >frame is concealed behind the drawer fronts. If the frames are long, as on >buffets, they should have a middle supporting rail or even two supporting >rails >if necessary. > >Doors and Drawers > >Doors and drawers can be overlap, lip or flush. Overlap doors and drawers >have the entire front thickness exposed. These are often used on "Euro" >style >kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities. Lip doors and drawers normally have >a 3/8-by-3-inch lip or rabbet around all edges. This allows for using >3/8-inch >lip hinges for installing the doors. Flush doors and drawers are fitted with > >their fronts flush with the case facings. These require great care in >building >and installing. Flush doors don't seal off the cabinet as well as overlap or > >lip doors. > >Shown are common door examples. > >Door fronts may be made of solid wood or 3/4-inch plywood. The outer edges >may be left square on overlap doors, but are commonly rounded on lip doors. >Drawers >are commonly made of solid wood, sometimes of plywood. > >Finer furniture, however, often utilizes frame-and-panel construction for >the doors and sometimes for the drawers. Or the drawers may be solid wood >with >shaped fronts. The frame-and-panel doors consist of two uprights, called >stiles, and two horizontal pieces, called rails. Some doors also have a >third >horizontal piece, or cross rail, in the middle. The frame pieces have dadoes > >cut along their inside edges for panels. Or a rabbet may be cut along the >inside edges of the frame, in which case the panel is held in place by >molding. The inside edge of the frame is called "sticking." It can be left >flat >or shaped, or provided with attached decorative molding. A molded sticking >adds to the strength of the frame structure. > >Frame-and-panel doors may be made in several ways. The simplest is to cut >dadoes in the frame pieces then dowel and glue the frame pieces together, >inserting >the panel in place as you assemble the frames. Or the frame can be assembled > >with mortise-and-tenon joints. The best method, however, is to use a router >or shaper to create shaped stickings. This creates a shaped joint and >provides a larger glue surface, as well as a decorative frame edge. > >The panels inserted into the frames can be thin plywood panels or solid wood > >with their edges shaped. The top of the frame and panel can be left >straight, >or an arched panel and top rail may be created on a shaper or with a router. > >Creating cabinetry, whether building your own kitchen cabinets or a fine >piece of furniture is a rewarding task. Start with simple box construction >and >work your way toward the more complicated construction as you gain >experience and tools. > >Doors and frame-and-panel construction often consist of shaped bead and >ogee edges with flat or shaped panels. These can be cut with a router or >shaper. > >SIDE NOTE > >Need Help with Cabinet Layout or Kitchen Design? > >Visit the official website of Wellborn Cabinets, Inc. for some helpful >online tools. There you'll find an easy-to-use online CAD Program to help >you design >the kitchen of your dreams. There are step-by-step online tutorials for >laying out cabinets and plenty of tips on choosing your style and preferred >finish. >So check out >www.wellborn.com > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG Free Edition. >Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.3/642 - Release Date: >1/20/2007 10:31 PM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.3/642 - Release Date: 1/20/2007 10:31 PM To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is. http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the new archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! 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