Robert, yep, the gage stays in the slot. My gage has a portion that is thicker at the bottom.
earlier, Robert J. Moore, wrote: >Hi >My table saw has a miter gage that the bar is 90 degrees on either side. >What this means is that the miter gage can be lifted straight up So when the >part that you hold the stock to is pulled back past the edge of the table it >falls down and the bar on the gage comes out of the groove. This limits how >far back I can pull the stock. Do some tables have a gage that slides more >into a groove type setup so the gage is held down inside the groove while >you are moving it. >Hope this makes sence. This is my first table saw so I don't know how others >are set up. > >-----Original Message----- >From: ><mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] >Behalf Of <mailto:spiro%40netaxs.com>[EMAIL PROTECTED] >Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 1:27 PM >To: <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] >Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with table Saws > >thank you Dale. I thinks me got it. > >On Mon, 19 Feb 2007, Dale Leavens wrote: > > > Really there are only two guides. The mitre gauge and the rip fence. > > > > The mitre gauge has a long bar which slides in a milled groove in the >table > > top and it's fence can be pivoted around the vertical axis usually through >a > > little more than 45 degrees left or right of right angles to the direction > > of the guide bar. > > > > The rip fence is a long bar which is oriented parallel to the blade and >runs > > on rails one on the leading edge of the saw table the other on the rear >edge > > of the table. It can be slid nearer or further from the blade usually to >the > > right of the blade. It can be slid right off the end of the rails when > > desired to be removed. > > > > There are a variety of additional sleds and jigs and guides which can be > > applied to either the mitre gauge or the rip fence.I have a rather >wonderful > > tennoning jig which runs in the mitre slot of the table saw and will hold >a > > work piece vertically for cutting the cheek cuts. There are feather boards > > which can be wedged into the mitre slot for keeping stock held firmly > > against the rip fence as it is being pushed through. > > > > Generally the mitre gauge and the rip fence that comes with a saw are less > > than perfect but replacing them with higher quality can be very expensive. > > Recently someone here I just now forget who was looking for a replacement > > for their saw. > > > > I just saw a rather wonderful third party rip fence replacement called the > > AcuSquare available at the sawshop.com while at the woodworking show in > > London last week. This fence, in addition to being reliably adjustable to > > absolutely parallel and keeping that way is made of extruded aluminium >with > > 'T' slots running it's length on the three exposed surfaces onto which >jigs > > and/or hold-downs can either be secured or guided like sleds and onto >which > > sacrificial fencing can easily and securely be attached. This device >starts > > as a mere $260 Canadian I think but can be had with rails out to 50 inches > > for those with a suitably huge cabinet saw at of course suitably >incremental > > prices. They have them for router tables and band saws too. > > > > There are also sliding tables which can be used on a table saw but that is > > an entirely different device and I don't have any experience with them at > > all. > > > > Hope this is helpful. > > > > > > Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada > > <mailto:DLeavens%40puc.net>[EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:DLeavens%40puc.net> > > Skype DaleLeavens > > Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: < <mailto:spiro%40netaxs.com>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > <mailto:spiro%40netaxs.com> > > > To: < <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] ><mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com> > > > Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 10:24 PM > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Up Close with table Saws > > > > > >> Hi Ray, > >> I've barely ever used a TS. So I have questions. > >> The miter guide goes cross cut, right? > >> Think I got that. > >> But where does the rip guide go? I would think "para" with the blade. But > >> isn't that the job of the main guide? > >> There are 3 guides mentioned in this article. > >> Differentiate please. > >> Sorry for density. > >> > >> > >> > >> On Tue, 20 Feb 2007, Boyce, Ray wrote: > >> > >>> Hi All > >>> Up Close with Table Saws > >>> > >>> If you're serious about woodworking, then you're well versed in the > >>> wonders of a table saw. And if you're new to woodworking, or interested > >>> in picking it > >>> up as a hobby, then you'll find that a table saw is one of the most > >>> versatile woodworking tools available. Table saws can be used for > >>> crosscutting, miter > >>> cutting, bevel cutting, compound miter cutting, ripping, bevel ripping, > >>> rabbeting, resawing and molding. Because it's so versatile, a table saw > >>> often serves > >>> as the "flag ship" tool of a home workshop. With a table saw, a circular > >>> saw blade protrudes through a smooth table surface, cutting stock as you > >>> feed > >>> it into the blade. Since the user guides the stock into the blade, >rather > >>> than the blade into the stock, table saws offer supreme control and > >>> accuracy > >>> for a huge variety of cutting chores. > >>> > >>> A table saw's blade can be replaced with different blades or special > >>> cutting heads for a variety of applications. > >>> > >>> The Basics > >>> > >>> Modern table saws feature an adjustable blade that can be > >>> raised or lowered within the table to accommodate a variety of cutting > >>> depths. Blade > >>> height (the amount of blade protruding above the table surface) is > >>> typically adjusted with an elevation wheel. Turn the wheel to raise or > >>> lower the blade. > >>> The elevation wheel also pivots, and locks and unlocks its position. The > >>> pivoting action tilts the saw blade from zero to 45 degrees to make >bevel > >>> or straight > >>> cuts. The motor and blade are usually housed beneath the table surface, > >>> which is constructed of smooth steel to facilitate easy sliding of stock > >>> over the > >>> work surface. > >>> > >>> Easy-to-use controls allow you to adjust the height and tilt of the > >>> blade. > >>> > >>> A tilted blade allows you to make accurate bevel cuts. > >>> > >>> Table saws vary in size, features, engineering and capacity, > >>> ranging from smaller benchtop models to large, expensive "cabinet" >models > >>> used > >>> by professional woodworkers. Table saws can operate on a direct-drive, >or > >>> be driven by a single V-belt, a serpentine belt or multiple V-belts. > >>> Contractor > >>> saws-the type most used by homeowners and the focus of this > >>> article-feature three primary accessories that help with operation: a > >>> blade guard, a miter > >>> gauge and a rip fence. > >>> > >>> The blade guard, which covers the blade, not only provides a > >>> barrier between the blade and your hands but protects the user from > >>> flying debris. > >>> The blade guard should always be in place when making cuts where the > >>> blade penetrates completely through the workpiece. A splitter is also an > >>> important > >>> feature and is configured as part of the blade guard. A splitter, or > >>> spreader, is a thin fin of metal positioned in line with the rear of the > >>> saw. Its > >>> purpose is to prevent the cut piece from rotating, preventing kickback. > >>> Plus, the splitter usually has two anti-kickback wings with sharp teeth. > >>> When the > >>> workpiece moves toward the user, the teeth dig into the stock to hold it > >>> safely and securely. > >>> > >>> The blade guard should be used for all cuts where the blade completely > >>> penetrates through the workpiece. It should align perfectly behind the > >>> blade of the > >>> saw. > >>> > >>> Table saws have one or two grooves in the table surface, > >>> running parallel to the blade to position the miter gauge. When > >>> crosscutting, the miter > >>> gauge is usually set at 90 degrees to the plane of the blade to cut the > >>> workpiece at a right angle. Of course, the miter gauge can also be > >>> adjusted and > >>> locked in position to cut precisely controlled angles, or miters. A good > >>> miter gauge should have stops at 45 and 90 degrees and swing to both > >>> sides. > >>> > >>> The rip fence is a guide that runs from the front to the rear > >>> of the table, perfectly parallel to the blade. The distance of the fence > >>> from > >>> the blade can be adjusted, and it guides the workpiece when ripping >stock > >>> to width. A good rip fence will be solidly constructed with a firm fit >in > >>> every > >>> position on the table surface. > >>> > >>> Using the Miter Gauge > >>> > >>> The miter gauge will be your go-to tool for making crosscuts, > >>> miter cuts, bevel cuts, compound miter cuts and when making rabbets > >>> across the > >>> end of a workpiece. When using the miter gauge, first clear the table > >>> surface of the rip fence and any other accessories, scraps or debris. > >>> While the motor > >>> is off, set the blade height to cut about 1/4 inch through the stock. > >>> Measure and mark the cutline on the workpiece, and align the mark with > >>> the cut indicator > >>> on the saw. If crosscutiing, lock the miter gauge at a 90-degree angle >to > >>> the blade. If miter cutting, lock the miter guage at the desired angle > >>> using > >>> the marked graduations. Hold the stock firmly against the fence and >stand > >>> to either side of the saw (to avoid any debris that may be thrown toward > >>> you > >>> during cutting). Turn on the saw, and with a steady, smooth motion push > >>> the miter gauge and workpiece forward, so the stock moves into the >blade. > >>> Be sure > >>> to keep your hands out of the path of the blade. Note: You may want to > >>> glue a piece of sandpaper to the head of the miter gauge to prevent the > >>> workpiece > >>> from slipping around. Also, if the workpiece is warped, then place the > >>> concave side facing down. This helps prevent it from rocking while being > >>> cut. > >>> > >>> The miter guage has marked graduations to set the cut at a specific > >>> angle. > >>> > >>> The miter gauge is the go-to accessory for making crosscuts and miter > >>> cuts. > >>> > >>> When making bevel cuts or compound miter cuts, use the same > >>> process but adjust the tilt of the blade to the desired angle using the > >>> graduations > >>> marked on the blade tilt control. Adjust the tilt and lock it securely. > >>> > >>> Homemade stops are useful when you want to cut a number of > >>> pieces the same length without having to mark each piece. Never use the > >>> rip fence > >>> as a length stop because the cut-off piece could bind against the blade > >>> and cause kickback. Instead, when making repetitive cuts, you can make a > >>> stop by > >>> clamping a 3-inch block of wood to the table at the desired length. Make > >>> sure the stop block is well in front of the blade and clamped securely. > >>> > >>> When making cuts with the miter gauge, one rule of thumb (if > >>> you want to keep yours) is to complete the cut, pull the workpiece back > >>> and push > >>> the cut-off piece off the table with a "push stick"-don't use your >hands. > >>> Also use the push stick to remove small cut-off pieces from the table > >>> surface, > >>> otherwise they could be thrown back toward you by the spinning blade. > >>> (Check out the diagram below to learn how to make a push stick.) Always > >>> keep your > >>> hands away from the blade and never make any cuts freehand (without >using > >>> the miter gauge, rip fence or other auxiliary device). And anytime >you're > >>> cutting > >>> a long piece, make sure to support the cut-off end from the floor. > >>> > >>> Using the Rip Fence > >>> > >>> The rip fence is an indispenable tool for ripping, bevel > >>> ripping, rabbeting along the stock's length, or resawing. Always begin >by > >>> clearing > >>> the work surface of the miter gauge and any other obstacles or debris. > >>> Set the blade height and position the fence according to the width of > >>> cut. Most > >>> modern saws feature a graduated scale on the edge of the table to line >up > >>> the rip fence's pointer, which indicates the measurement between the > >>> blade and > >>> fence. Some saws also feature a dual scale equipped with a secondary > >>> pointer and an extendable table for making cuts in wide materials. >Either > >>> way, always > >>> lock the rip fence securely to the table when using it. > >>> > >>> When ripping, always make sure the rip fence is parallel with > >>> the saw blade, and the splitter, or spreader, is properly aligned with > >>> the blade. > >>> > >>> A rip fence guides the workpiece when ripping stock to width. Here it's > >>> being used to cut kerfs in a feather board. > >>> > >>> Use outfeed supports, such as the roller shown, to support long or wide > >>> stock. > >>> > >>> For standard ripping, use both hands to push the stock forward > >>> and firmly against the rip fence, guiding the workpiece into the blade. > >>> The blade > >>> should be set to cut 1/8 inch beyond the surface of the stock. Bevel > >>> ripping is done in the same manner, but with the blade tilted to the > >>> desired angle > >>> and locked into place. Use a "push stick" to push the workpiece > >>> completely past the blade to complete the rip. Remember to cut warped > >>> stock with the concave > >>> side down. And when ripping long boards or panels, always use work > >>> support such as an outfeed roller, or a sawhorse clamped with a sheet of > >>> plywood at > >>> the proper height to support the work evenly. > >>> > >>> When ripping, always use a push stick to keep your hands away from the > >>> blade. > >>> > >>> Homemade Gadgets for the Table Saw > >>> > >>> Push Stick: A push stick is a simple tool made from a 15-inch > >>> piece of wood with beveled and notched ends to nudge the end of a > >>> workpiece past > >>> the blade and off the table.This is an important safety tool used for > >>> ripping and bevel ripping, as well as clearing the table of wood scraps. > >>> > >>> Auxiliary Fence and Push Block: In some cases of very narrow > >>> rips, such as less than 2 inches wide, a push stick can't be used >because > >>> the blade > >>> guard interferes with it. In such a case, you can build an L-shaped > >>> "auxiliary fence" about 5-1/2 inches wide and long enough to fit your > >>> table surface > >>> (see page 20). Clamp the L-shaped lip to the rip fence with two >C-clamps. > >>> The lower side of the auxiliary fence acts as an extension of the rip > >>> fence, > >>> only with a lower profile to guide the stock by sliding beneath the >guard > >>> for closer proximity to the blade. Feed the stock into the blade by hand > >>> until > >>> the end nears the edge of the table, and then use a "push block" to > >>> complete it. > >>> > >>> A push block is built to fit flush over an auxiliary fence as > >>> a sliding guide. It has a handle in the middle and a small piece of wood > >>> is glued > >>> to the corner of its underside to push the end of the workpiece into the > >>> blade, completing the cut. > >>> > >>> Auxiliary Fence and Feather Boards: The auxiliary fence can > >>> also be used to support "resawing" operations. Resawing is ripping a > >>> piece of stock > >>> through its thickness, like cutting a 2-by-4 into a 1-by-4. When the > >>> stock is stood on its side, it can be supported on either side by > >>> "sandwiching" the > >>> workpiece between the rip fence and the "L" side of the auxilary fence, > >>> which is clamped to the table surface. Don't attempt to resaw warped > >>> material. > >>> > >>> When resawing, often the blade won't cut completely though the > >>> thickness of the wood. If this is the case, you'll have to make two > >>> passes, one > >>> through each thickness edge. This can only be done with the blade guard > >>> removed. > >>> > >>> Use feather boards when the blade guard is removed. > >>> > >>> In any cutting operation where the blade guard must be removed > >>> because the blade won't be cutting completely through the wood, > >>> "featherboards" > >>> should be used. Whether rabbeting, dadoing or molding with a special > >>> cutting head, featherboards keep the workpiece firmly pressed against >the > >>> fence and > >>> table. Featherboards can be clamped above and to the side of the > >>> workpiece. The kerfed, leading edges of the featherboards exert pressure > >>> on the workpiece > >>> until the cut is complete. > >>> > >>> Auxiliary Facing: In some cases you may want to attach wood > >>> facing onto the rip fence, whenever the cutting edge comes close to the > >>> fence, and > >>> you want to avoid the blade hitting the metal. Attach facing to the >fence > >>> when using a dado or molding head, or when ripping very thin material. > >>> The auxiliary > >>> facing must be made of smooth, straight wood, about 3/4 inch thick, cut > >>> to the same length as the fence and attached with wood screws. > >>> > >>> You can also attach wood facing to the miter gauge. When the > >>> auxiliary facing is longer than the face of the miter gauge, it provides > >>> additional > >>> support when cutting long pieces of stock. > >>> > >>> For very narrow rips, begin the cut using an auxiliary fence... > >>> > >>> ...and finish the cut with a push block. > >>> > >>> > >>> Saw It Safely > >>> > >>> Don't be one of those people who assume they were born a power tool > >>> expert. Those people can get hurt. Read and understand the owner's >manual > >>> and labels > >>> affixed to the tool. Learn its applications, limitations and potential > >>> hazards. > >>> > >>> * Dress appropriately when using a table saw. Don't wear loose clothing > >>> or jewelry that can be caught in moving parts. Always wear eye >protection > >>> and wear > >>> hearing protection when working long intervals. Use a face mask if the > >>> cutting operation is dusty and use a hair covering to protect long hair. > >>> > >>> * Always disconnect the saw from its power source when it's not in use, > >>> before servicing and when changing blades, bits, cutters, etc. > >>> > >>> * Always keep the guards in place, in good working order and in proper > >>> adjustment and alignment. > >>> > >>> * Don't force the tool to do a job it wasn't designed for. For example; > >>> don't use your table saw to cut tree limbs or logs. > >>> > >>> * Table saws should be bolted securely to a stand or workbench. Use the > >>> table saw in a well lit area and on a level surface. And always use > >>> auxiliary supports > >>> to cut long or heavy boards. > >>> > >>> * In addition, if there is any tendency for the table saw to tip over or > >>> move during certain operations such as cutting long, heavy boards, use >an > >>> auxiliary > >>> support. > >>> > >>> * To avoid kickback, keep the blade and anti-kickback wings sharp. Keep > >>> the rip fence parallel to the blade when in use. Avoid cutting warped or > >>> twisted > >>> stock. > >>> > >>> * Use a Push Stick for ripping widths of 2 to 6 inches and an auxiliary > >>> fence and Push Block for ripping widths narrower than 2 inches. Don't > >>> release the > >>> workpiece until it has already moved past the blade. And never "back up" > >>> (reverse feed) the workpiece while resawing (with guard removed) because > >>> this > >>> could cause a kickback. > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> The Latest and Greatest > >>> > >>> Bosch 4000 > >>> > >>> Bosch offers a real "Cadillac" of a table saw in its 4000 model. The > >>> 10-inch Bosch 4000 features a table surface of 29 by 21-1/2 inches, the > >>> largest in > >>> its class for easy handling of large stock. The 15-amp motor features > >>> Constant Response Circuitry that monitors torque demand and instantly > >>> delivers additional > >>> power to maintain constant speed under load. Plus, a "soft start" >feature > >>> allows quieter, smoother start-ups. The rip fence is also top-notch, > >>> featuring > >>> patented "square-lock" technology that provides accuracy with every cut. > >>> The 4000 also boasts a heavy-duty steel, folding "Gravity Rise" saw >stand > >>> that > >>> makes it easy to break down and set up for work. The stand comes >equipped > >>> with treaded pneumatic tires. The Bosch 4000 isn't cheap, but it's worth > >>> every > >>> dime. Highly recommended for the serious table saw enhtusiast. Check out > >>> www.boschtools.com. > >>> > >>> Skil 3400 > >>> > >>> Skil's Model 3400 10-inch, 15-amp table saw is not as decked-out in > >>> features as the Bosch 4000, but it still makes a reliable unit for > >>> homeowner use and > >>> also costs considerably less. In addition to the die-cast miter gauge >and > >>> a rip fence with magnifying lens for reading measurements, the saw > >>> features on-tool > >>> storage for the blade, wrenches cord and accessories. The table has > >>> integrated carrying handles and soft grip controls. The Skil model comes > >>> with a 28-tooth > >>> carbide blade and is also available with a saw stand. Visit > >>> www.skil.com. > >>> > >>> ********************************************************************** > >>> This message and its attachments may contain legally > >>> privileged or confidential information. If you are not the > >>> intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the > >>> information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail > >>> in error, please notify the sender immediately by return > >>> e-mail and delete the e-mail. > >>> > >>> Any content of this message and its attachments which > >>> does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy > >>> must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by > >>> Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or > >>> attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. > >>> ********************************************************************** > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > >>> > >>> > >> > >> > >> To listen to the show archives go to link > >> > <http://acbradio.org/handyman.html>http://acbradio.org/handyman.html > <http://acbradio.org/handyman.html> > >> or > >> > <ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/>ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ ><ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/> > >> > >> The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > >> > <http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday>http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday ><http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday> > >> > >> The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is. > >> > <http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml>http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml ><http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml> > >> > >> Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > >> List Members At The Following address: > >> > <http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/>http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ > <http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/> > >> > >> Visit the new archives page at the following address > >> > <http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/>http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ><http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/> > >> For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > >> list just send a blank message to: > >> > <mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.com>[EMAIL PROTECTED] ><mailto:blindhandyman-help%40yahoogroups.com> > >> Yahoo! Groups Links > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> -- > >> No virus found in this incoming message. > >> Checked by AVG Free Edition. > >> Version: 7.1.412 / Virus Database: 268.18.3/693 - Release Date: >19/02/2007 > >> > >> > > > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG Free Edition. >Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.3/693 - Release Date: >2/19/2007 5:01 PM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.3/693 - Release Date: 2/19/2007 5:01 PM To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is. http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the new archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! 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