Ron, I would suggest that you check the manual for your tank to see what pressure is recommended.
earlier, [EMAIL PROTECTED], wrote: >Dear Ron: >Your problem sounds like the classic case of a water-logged tank. >This simply refers to the situation where the air in the top of the >tank has been dissipated and There is little left to act as the >pressure regulator. >There are two fairly simple ways to test this theory. >One, turn off the electricity to the pump and then drain the tank >completely, and when all is out, close the drain plug and restart the pump. >Two, if you have a clean air source, and the tank is fitted with a >valve stem, as you would find on a automobile tire, then air up the >tank to forty pounds of pressure, while letting the water flow out >of the tank. Once all of the water is out or nearly out, then start >using the water. It is not entirely necessary to turn of the pump >for the later procedure, but it would probably be best. >Some tanks are fitted with a device which is designed to regulate >the amount of air in the tank, and if your tank has one of these >devices, it probably needs to be replaced. >I have found that the bladder tanks offer good service and in >general, take up much less space, as a smaller tank with a bladder >will perform as well as a much larger tank will, with no bladder. >Replacing a tank is a fairly straight forward job for a handy-man, >provided you have the tools and supplies to accomplish the task. >Check out the available styles of tanks at your local plumbing supply store. > >Yours Truly, > >Clifford Wilson >----- Original Message ----- >From: Ron or Susan Denis >To: <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>[email protected] >Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2007 9:00 AM >Subject: [BlindHandyMan] maintaining pressure of water from fresh water well > >I get my water from a well about 100 feet deep. There is a tank in the >garage into which the water is pumped. It is distributed from that tank >throughout the house. The pressure in that tank had been about 30 pounds >and would decline slowly until a level was reached which triggered a switch >that then signaled the pump in the well to pump more water. The pressure >then rose, the pump turned off, and the pressure then went down slowly until >it reached the point where the pump was again triggered. In the past, the >pump would run for a few seconds and it would take a fair time before it >would go on again. I think it took between 30 seconds and a minute but am >not really sure how long. Now, the pump runs for a second, the pressure >drops very quickly, and the pump engages for another second. With water >running at a reasonable level, the time between the pump turning on is very >brief, maybe 10 seconds at most. The tank is described as an "osmosis" tank >rather than a bladder tank. (I am writing what I've been told as I know >nothing about this at all.) The pressures on the tank now vary from about >40 to 45 pounds for the second the pump is running and drops to about 10 >pounds or less when the pump is triggered. All this is happening much >faster than it used to. I was not happy with the last person I had work on >the well--a pump head had to be replaced--because he left the electrical >connections with solder connectors taped and did not replace the plastic box >which had housed these previous to his work. I am not sure whether my >problem lies with the switching at the pump, or the switch at the tank. I'm >not even sure a switch is the problem, but something is preventing the slow >even drawdown and build-up of pressure in the tank. The tank seems to >maintain a good pressure when no water is in use. >I'm looking for suggestions as to where I might learn more about the set-up >from well to faucet that sets and maintains pressure and suggestions as to >where in the system the current problem might reside. >Ron Denis > >__________ NOD32 2075 (20070222) Information __________ > >This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system. ><http://www.eset.com>http://www.eset.com > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG Free Edition. >Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.3/697 - Release Date: >2/22/2007 11:55 AM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.3/697 - Release Date: 2/22/2007 11:55 AM ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~--> Check out the new improvements in Yahoo! Groups email. http://us.click.yahoo.com/4It09A/fOaOAA/yQLSAA/86xolB/TM --------------------------------------------------------------------~-> To listen to the show archives go to link http://acbradio.org/handyman.html or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is. http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/ Visit the new archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups - Join or create groups, clubs, forums & communities. Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/blindhandyman/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups - Join or create groups, clubs, forums & communities. is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
