Hi Everyone

How to Select a Wood-Burning Stove

Ever since I was a little kid, there was something pleasantly hypnotic about 
a home heated with a freestanding wood-burning stove, something that spoke
to me. While I couldn't verbalize it then, what I later realized was that I 
liked the direct, physical, easy-to-understand connection between a warm 
house
and the natural world. It was an even greater connection if I had cut, split 
and stacked the logs myself before loading them into the firebox. Like 
building
something myself rather than buying it, I felt like I was part of the 
process of heating my home and warming my family, rather than just a 
consumer of
some invisible fuel piped into my house from some unknown source, for which 
a bill arrived each month.

I still like wood-burning stoves, too, and there's still that tinge of 
childhood glee when I feel one glowing on a bitter January night. But, 
there's something
else that plays into my affection now-my utility bill every month. My old 
house leaks heat like a sieve, and my poor furnace needs a wing-man. I'm not
about to throw out my flip-of-a-switch natural gas heat, but with the right 
stove I'm anticipating warmer nights this winter, something nice to look at
in the corner of my living room, and a mercifully lower gas bill.

Soapstone is an incredibly dense and beautiful

material for wood-burning stoves.

Sizing it Up

The first step to selecting the right stove is to determine what you want it 
to do-heat the entire house, or just warm a small space. Upon deciding that,
part of the decision becomes pretty formulaic, while the rest settles out a 
little more subjectively. For the formulaic part, product literature and 
your
dealer can lead you to the size stove that'll do what you want. This narrows 
the field of contenders considerably and sets you up to dial in the details
from there, of which there are several important ones.

There's a Ford versus Chevy debate in the wood stove world. It centers on 
what material the stove is built of and how that affects the heat the 
appliance
delivers-and manufacturers cling as heartily to their material selection as 
any NASCAR fan supports their racer's ride. There are three main materials
from which wood stoves are built, soapstone, cast iron, and steel, and the 
argument for each goes like this:

Soapstone-Soapstone is an incredibly dense and beautiful, natural material 
with a very high "specific heat" (specific heat is a material's ability to 
absorb
heat), according to the Woodstock Soapstone Company. The Woodstock Company 
states that soapstone has twice the heat storage of cast iron and steel, and
that enables the stove to not only heat spaces evenly, but to retain its 
heat like a heat sink long after the fire has cooled. The soapstone camp 
goes
on to say that cast iron and steel stoves, since they hold half the heat of 
soapstone, radiate (i.e. lose) much of their heat to heat the air in the 
room,
causing abrupt heat-ups and cool downs.

Cast Iron-Cast iron stove manufacturers cite their stoves' abilities to heat 
up and cool down more quickly as a benefit, which is especially nice in the
spring and fall when days are still warm, but nights are chilly. Steve Tate 
of Quadra-Fire says, "Cast iron is going to heat up and cool down more 
quickly
than soapstone due to its natural properties and is more responsive than 
soapstone." And, the point of lighting the fire for me is to warm up, not to 
wait
to warm up. Cast iron stove manufacturers also point out that a well-tended 
fire and properly adjusted stove can burn nicely through the night when 
you're
tucked under your blankets, then heat you right up again when it's time for 
coffee and eggs.

Steel-Steel stoves are a little outside the Ford/Chevy debate, because the 
steel heats up noticeably quicker than the more dense cast iron and 
soapstone
as well as cools quickly when the fire goes down.

Efficiency Ratings-The EPA and Underwriters Laboratories require strict, 
scientific testing of wood stoves from which they determine the "efficiency 
rating"
that should be listed in the stove's spec sheet. Using a very strict 
definition, catalytic stoves are more efficient and have a cleaner burn than 
non-catalytic
stoves. This is because a filter in catalytic stoves catches minute 
particulate matter and combusts it. A non-catalytic stove would let this 
matter pass
up the chimney. But these are very small particles, so be careful how you 
weigh this feature in your decision. EPA efficiency ratings between 
catalytic
and non-catalytic stoves are extremely slim between many models. The EPA 
mandates that all wood-burning stoves meet certain efficiency ratings, 
making
burning wood a much cleaner and environmentally responsible way to heat, 
which wasn't always the case according to the Hearth, Patio, & Barbeque 
Association
(HPBA).

Cast iron stoves have the ability to heat

up and cool down quickly.

How the stove is fed air and how much control you have over the flame 
intensity is usually more customizable with a non-catalytic unit. This means 
that
you don't have to burn the fire on high as often. And, you can open the fire 
box doors for that "fireplace experience" when you want to hear the logs 
snap.

The price of cord wood plays into this, too. A cord of seasoned hardwood 
where I live in Pennsylvania runs $125-150 per cord, and one cord to a cord 
and
a half can last an entire winter. That price is about half of one gas bill 
for one winter month for me, so this is another reason to be careful about 
splitting
efficiency-rating hairs.

Looks Count Too-Efficiency and proper sizing are important, but the last 
thing I want in my living room is a really efficient hunk of pig iron. So 
(to keep
the truck metaphor cookin') check out the trim packages stove manufacturers 
offer. From basic black to eye-popping enamel finishes and nearly Victorian
detail, there's a wide palette to choose from. And, as with a new truck, 
features cost cash.

Basic black cast iron and steel are just that. They have sleek, simple lines 
and may be your taste, but for a different (and more expensive) look check
out the finely detailed models that look like they were cast in a bygone 
era. Look for enamel finishes too. They can help the stove blend in to your 
décor-or
make it pop as a central feature. Reds are typically the most expensive 
enamels. However, all enamels may chip over time and are tough to repair 
according
to Neil Sklaroff of Ambler Fireplace and Patio in Colmar, Pennsylvania, who 
helped me choose the stove that worked best for my house: a Quadra-Fire 
Cumberland
Gap cast-iron model.




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