Thank you Larry!  Great info! 

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 6:59 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Veritas Sharpening System


  The Veritas sharpening system, Item No. 05M02.10, consists of an 
angle-setting jig for bvevels and a precision honing guide. To set-up the 
system you insert of chisel into the honing guide and clamp it very lightly so 
you can still adjust the chisel within the guide. Then you take the chisel and 
insert the tip carefully into the angle-setting jig. The jig consists of a 
6-inch long base with a pentagon wheel attached to one end. The whell has 
bevelled undersurfaces set to 15 degrees, 20, 25, 30 and 35 degrees. Choose the 
angle you want, say 25 degrees for a chisel. Then slide the chisel, bevel down, 
tight against the angle-setting jig until the the face of the tool is flush 
with the pentagon wheel face. When it is tight, then clamp the tool firmly in 
the honing guide. Now you're ready to hold the end of the blade on the 
sandpaper or stone and begin rolling the guide forward and back until a 
satisfactory bevel is formed. This honing guide can also be set to add two 
microbevels after
  you've finished with the main bevel.

  I use this system. The honing guide is terrific because the rolling wheel is 
1 1/4 inches long which makes it easy to keep it flat on the stone or 
sandpaper. Also, the microbevels can be honed quickly and they make the chisels 
extremely sharp. The angle-setting jig is another matter. I am sighted and I 
have a great deal of difficulty using the jig and seeing if the chisel is flush 
against the bevelled face of the pentagon wheel. I can't think of a practical 
way for a blind woodworker to use the angle-setting jig other than by feel.

  To do it, have the angle-setting jig lying on a work surface with the 
pentagon wheel to the right and the flat surface of the base to the left. Put 
your right hand over the pentagon wheel and use your thumb and index finger to 
hold the blade firmly in the jig with the point in tight and the blade flush up 
against the bevelled surface on the underside of the wheel. Use your left hand 
thumb and index finger to slide the honing guide forward until the play has 
been taken out and the guide is tight against the blade. Do not exert too much 
pressure on the blade or it will tilt out of flush with the bevelled face of 
the jig. Then tighten the locking screw on top. 

  After just doing this, I measured the distance on top of the plane iron blade 
from its sharp edge back to the gripping disk of the clamp. That distance was 1 
7/32 inches or 31.5 millimeters for the 30-degree setting. At 25-degrees it was 
1 11/16 inches or 42 millimeters.

  An alternative honing guide is the Ecclipse-type guide which consists of a 
small clamp on a threaded rod with a small 1/2-inch rolling wheel also mounted 
on the threaded rod. Tighten the threaded rod to loosely clamp the chisel or 
plane iron blade into the jig. Then measure the distance from the tip of the 
blade to the jig. This distance sets the angle of the bevel. The instructions 
say to use 30 millimeters or 1 3/16-inches for 30 degrees for a chisel and 40 
millimeters or 1 5/8 inches for 25 degrees for a chisel. For a plane iron, use 
38 millimeters or 1 1/2 inches for 30 degrees for a plane iron or 50 
millimeters or 2 inches for 25 degrees for a plane iron. I do not understand 
why there is a difference for chisels and plane irons.

  These Ecclipse-type measurements are different from the measurements I got on 
the Veritas angle-setting jig and I do not understand why.

  From all that I have read there does not seem to be any particular magic in 
getting the bevel exactly at 25 degrees or 30 degrees. Close seems to be good 
enough. A chisel ground at 25 1/2 degrees or 26 degrees should perform nearly 
identically with a chisel ground at exactly 25 degrees. What is magical, 
however, is keeping the angle consistent once it is ground. 

  Of course, there is a major difference between grinding and honing. Grinding 
is done on a grinding wheel with the purpose of setting the angle of the bevel, 
of grinding the bevel to a point and making the edge square to the sides. 
Honing is the next process carried out with fine sandpapers or oil stones or 
water stones. The rougher grits smooth out the scratches from the grinding so 
that the face of the bevel meets the back of the chisel or plane iron in an 
extremely thin point. The finer grits polish the bevel to remove scratches from 
the coarser abrasive and to bring the edge to an extremely fine edge point 
which makes the chisel or plane iron super sharp.

  --
  Larry Martin
  Woodworking for the Blind
  --joining the world of blind wood workers

  -------------- Original message ----------------------
  From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  > Thank you for this Ralph.
  > 
  > Do you think you would be able to set the angle on a new chisel by resting 
  > it in the guide and feeling when the bevel is flat on your stone then 
  > setting the guide?
  > 
  > Not having had one in my hands yet I have no idea if this is practical.
  > 
  > The bevel on a plane blade is probably too thin but maybe a chisel.
  > 
  > Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
  > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > Skype DaleLeavens
  > Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
  > 
  > 
  > ----- Original Message ----- 
  > From: "Ralph Supernaw" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  > To: <blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com>
  > Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 3:29 PM
  > Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] sharpening tools
  > 
  > 
  > > Hi,
  > >
  > > I have the Veritas Sharpening system and use it. I need sighted help to 
  > > set
  > > the honing guide for a specific angle. Were I organized I'd brialle the
  > > angles for each setting and then could do it myself. I have sharpened at
  > > least a couple chistles by guessing at the angle. But, with a new chissle 
  > > I
  > > would want to set it at a particular angle to save time sharpening. Once
  > > the angle is set and the blade mounted in the honing guide the rest is 
  > > just
  > > "back and forth" until you can shave your arm.
  > >
  > > I like the feature that allows you to set a micro bevel by rotating a knob
  > > without removing the blade.
  > >
  > > The results I have had using the guide are far superior to that I have
  > > achieved freehand. This is also true for my brother who is sighted.
  > >
  > > Ralph
  > >
  > >
  > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > > To listen to the show archives go to link
  > > http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
  > > or
  > > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  > >
  > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  > > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  > >
  > > The Pod Cast address for the Cooking In The Dark Show is.
  > > http://www.gcast.com/u/cookingindark/main.xml
  > >
  > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various 
  > > List Members At The Following address:
  > > http://www.jaws-users.com/handyman/
  > >
  > > Visit the new archives page at the following address
  > > http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  > > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man 
  > > list just send a blank message to:
  > > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  > > Yahoo! Groups Links
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > > 
  > 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   


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