-----Original Message-----
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Boyce, Ray
Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2007 8:48 PM
To: blindhandyman@Yahoogroups.Com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] A Gardeners Guide To Starting Seeds
Hi Everyone
Gardener's Guide to Starting Seeds
With the weather warming up, your attention may be going more and more
towards outdoor pursuits. With that in mind, here are some suggestions on
seeding.
This material comes from the National Park Service: www.nps.gov.
Planting
Make sure, whether planting seeds or plants, to know the time of the year
most appropriate to do so for the particular species and type of material
being
used. For example, if the seeds require cold winter weather before they are
able to germinate, and artificial exposure to those types of conditions will
not occur before planting, they should be planted in the fall. Or, in
temperate areas, rooted plants are typically planted in the spring, after
the harsher
weather of winter has finished. This gives them a whole growing season to
establish themselves before winter sets in again.
The following sections detail some of the things that should be considered
when seeding or planting.
Timing
Since seeds require moisture to germinate, seeding usually should take place
at the time of year when a lot of moisture is available. For many areas,
this
is fall or spring. Summer plantings are possible if irrigation is available
for that season. This will vary from region to region; different regions
appear
to have better results with certain seasons.
Seed germination requirements should also influence the timing of the
seeding. Different species may need to be planted during different seasons
in order
to maximize germination. If the seeds require stratification before
germination, they should be seeded at a time when they will receive that
stratification.
For example, many seeds in temperate climates require a cold, moist
stratification. These seeds could be planted in the fall so that they are
stratified
during the winter and then will germinate in the spring. However, this
method exposes the seeds to possible predation and other stresses for a
longer period
of time, so some recommend artificially stratifying the seed and then
planting when it is ready to germinate.
Seasonal differences in the seed germination rates should also be
considered. Not all species germinate at the same time. If the project has
seeds that
have different optimal seasons for germination, perhaps the seeds should be
divided up into different mixes, such as a spring mix and a fall mix.
Availability
of seed species will limit the mix as well.
Mulch
Adding weed-free mulch after seeding offers many benefits for successful
seed germination:
* Provides physical substrate for the seeds so they are not blown or washed
off site.
* Provides physical protection for the seeds from extremes in temperature,
light, and moisture.
* Provides additional source of local native seed if local native hay is
used.
* Retains moisture, which is important for successful germination.
* Reduces soil erosion.
Mulch can take many forms (organic and inorganic), and all have advantages
and disadvantages. Some examples of mulch materials are: bark, wood chips,
weed-free
straw, leaves, weed-free local native hay, crushed stone, black plastic,
newspaper, and erosion control fiber mat materials. The mulch should be
applied
in such a way as to not suppress seed growth when the seeds start to
germinate. In other words, it should be applied in a thin enough layer so
that the
seeds (especially small ones) would not be buried too deeply.
Planting Young Plants
Careful and correct planting techniques are critical to the survivability of
young transplants. The following general guidelines should help ensure
success.
Choose a day with moderate weather conditions. Try not to plant on days with
extreme heat, cold, moisture or wind. Minimize root exposure before
planting.
Do everything possible to prepare for planting before removing the plant
from its container or other root protection. Collect all necessary tools,
distribute
plants around the site to their expected locations, prepare the water
supply, dig the holes, and any other arrangements necessary.
Make each planting hole twice the diameter and just slightly deeper than the
height of the container or rootball. Planting holes for bare-root plants
need
to be large enough so the roots are not crowded together in the hole. The
cross-section of the planting hole should be bowl or lens shaped instead of
cylindrical
because the roots need to spread horizontally to the surface to take
advantage of available oxygen. The larger and wider the planting hole, the
better.
Roughen the sides and bottom of the planting hole with the sharp edge of a
shovel or other implement. One of the greatest difficulties for transplant
roots
to overcome is to breach the planting hole/new soil interface. Roughening
the surfaces of the planting hole provides easier access for the developing
root
to enter the new soil. When working in an arid climate, watering the
planting hole thoroughly prior to planting will assure the availability of
soil moisture
to plant roots as they grow down into the native soil.
Place some of the backfill soil into the bottom of the hole in a mound and
firm it down. Remove the plant from its container, wrapping, burlap, wire
basket
or other covering. Once the plant is removed from the container, it should
be planted immediately to prevent death of roots. Prune off any broken,
twisted,
dead, circling or diseased roots. Loosen and brush off soil around the
periphery of the root ball. For container-grown plants, "butterfly" the
bottom half
of the root ball by spreading the roots apart. Lay the root ball on its side
and slice with a sharp implement two-thirds of the way up the root ball
starting
from the bottom. Fan the two cut halves out to the sides. This is
recommended to help plant establishment and reduce the chance of root
girdling.
Place the plant in the hole so that the roots are spread out over the
mounded soil and the base of the stem is slightly above the soil line. If
necessary,
hold the plant suspended in the hole to keep it upright while backfilling
with the other hand. Backfill soil around the roots firming it using hands
or
feet after every few inches. Take care not to damage the roots and be sure
the roots are still spread out. Do not bury the stem of the plant, make sure
it is still at or above the soil surface. The soil surface in relation to
the stem of the plant should be at the same level as it was in the
container.
Continue until the hole is filled with firm soil, gently pulling up and
settling down the plant to eliminate air pockets. Create a berm around the
perimeter
of the planting hole that will hold water.
Water the plant, wetting the entire planting hole basin. Be sure to let
water flow downward and soak into the soil, then water again. The first
watering
flushes air from the soil pores; it is the second watering that will provide
water available for the plant's use. If possible, mulch around the base of
each plant. This will reduce weed competition, mediate soil temperature
extremes, and reduce moisture loss from the soil. Mulch should not be
allowed to
touch the trunk or crown of plants and should be placed at least 1" away.
Measures may need to be taken to help new transplants survive. Staking
plants,
especially in windy areas, may be necessary. Protective tubing, netting or
screening may be utilized to protect young plants from herbivory, harsh sun,
wind, cold, or machine or foot traffic. There are a wide variety of products
for these purposes available from nursery supply catalogs. It is important
to remove any protective devices when they are no longer needed so they do
not impede the growth of plants.
Spring is around the corner, and no matter where you live or what season you
are in, your garden could use a head start. Give the garden production a
boost
by starting your garden inside. Here are a few tips to get you started.
Grow Lights
Some houses have a window that is naturally sunny. But most often you will
need to supplement your plants with artificial light. There are lights,
commonly
called grow lights, that are used to do this task. You can buy these at any
home and garden store.
These grow lights are a flourescent light. They give off the appropriate
wave lengths of light needed for plant growth. If the budget is tight or you
can't
find grow lights, then consider using a kitchen flourescent light.
Seed Selection
Most seed packets will have exact requirements of seed growth. Read the
directions carefully. If you can't find specific instructions, ask a local
plant
nursery or someone in the home and garden department at the local store if
they can help you. Many agriculture extensions of a local university may
also
be of some help in cases of germination and growing.
Want to know if you got a great selection of seeds? Take ten of the seeds
and place them in between two wet paper towels. At least a 60 to 70 percent
germination
rate is essential to a good proper planting. If in a couple days time, at
least six of them grow, then you have a chance of good germination rate. If
you
have six or fewer, you are likely to have a high failure rate of
germination. Buy new seeds if this latter event happens.
Soil Type
Good soil is important for proper growth of young plants. There are many
types of soil commonly used in starting seeds.
The best type of soil for seed starting is a commercial potting soil or
germination mix. These are sterile, free of weed seeds and have the right
amount
of nutrients needed for newly emerging plants. You want the soil loamy,
meaning it is full of air and very light.
Most germinating mixes contain some of the following: peat, perlite and
vermiculite. Peat, also called peat moss, adds to the soil's ability of
moisture
retention. It helps keep the soil moist. But peat can be expensive and it is
commonly found in swamps and wetlands, which are disappearing at alarming
rates. Perlite and vermiculite do the same without needing peat. They add
air and moisture to the soil. Perlite is easier to find and it tends to last
longer, and it also has a more neutral pH which most plants require.
Placement and Setup of Plants
Containers that can be used to start seeds could include seed flats, peat
pellets and pots and even plastic cups. As long as the drainage is proper,
it
can be used.
Place the seed in the soil no more deep than twice the size of the seed.
Sprinkle the soil with a little bit of water, making sure not to over water
it.
You don't want water logged soil since the seed may rot.
Place the covered seeds about three to four inches away from the lights.
Keep this distance throughout the growing process. Always make sure the
plants
aren't touching the lights. The lights give off some heat so being close
ensures that the germinating seed gets enough warmth and light for efficient
growth.
Hardening Off
Once the plants have gotten big enough, about four to six inches depending
on the type of plant, you need to harden them off before transplanting them
outside.
Hardening off involves getting them used to outside conditions. You can do
this several ways.
If you have a cold frame or greenhouse, this is the best way to harden the
plants off for the garden. If you do not have either of these, place the
plants
outside during the day and bring them in at night for a few nights.
Eventually leave them out a little bit longer, say a night or two, and bring
them in.
Eventually the plants will be used to the outside and you can transplant
them into their regular garden spots.
Transplanting
Transplanting means you are taking plants from their original containers and
placing them into their permanent bed, whether that be the ground, another
bigger container or a raised bed.
There are a few things to consider when transplanting. You should transplant
after properly hardening off the plants (see above).
Pull the plant gently from its current pot or growing spot. Make sure to
keep as much of the germinating soil as you can, as that can help prevent
transplant
shock, a condition in which the plant doesn't take well to being in new
surroundings. If you like, you can gently tug at the roots a bit to spread
them
out, but it's not really necessary. It just helps the roots reach out once
they are in the ground or bed.
Place the plant into its permanent place and water if needed. During the
first few days, the plant may seem to wither. But with careful observation,
watering
and fertilizing (if it's necessary and proper for the specific plant) the
plant should bounce back.
Starting seeds inside gives a great head start to the gardening season. With
patience, time and a little extra effort you should have a great abundance
of production. By planting at the optimal time and starting seeds inside you
can ensure a continual harvest of plants such as vegetables.
I use 2-deep plastic flats with multiple water holes in the bottom and fill
them with a dry soilless growing mix, firming it down until it is 1/2 from
the
top of the flat.
Sow seeds in furrows three times as deep as the seed's diameter. If seeds
need light to germinate, cover them very lightly if at all.
Space small seeds 1/8, medium seeds 1/2 and large seeds an inch apart. Space
rows 1-1/2 to 2 inches apart to allow seedlings room to grow their first
true
leaves before transplanting. Label each row with the name of the plant and
variety, and the date of sowing.
Keep Flats Moist and Warm
I set planted flats in a waterproof tray filled with 1/2- to 3/4-inch of
water. Because the watering is done from the bottom of the flat, seeds don't
get
washed out or disturbed. The trays also provide a water reservoir that can
help keep your growing medium moist but not soggy. Tepid (65° to 70°F) water
is best. Never allow the soil to dry out completely.
To maintain humidity during germination, I place the flat in a plastic bag,
cover it with plastic food wrap or use a plastic humidity cover. I don't
seal
the flat completely, as mold may form if air can't circulate.
Seed flats need bottom heat of 75° to 85°F. I place my flats on top of the
fluorescent light fixtures, but you could also put them on top of a
refrigerator
or near another heat source, such as a wood stove or radiator. Or use one of
the bottom heat mats made for this purpose.
Provide Light
Once seeds germinate, they need light. I use fluorescent bulbs that are
specifically designed to provide plants with as much of the solar spectrum
as possible.
Each of my fixtures holds four fluorescent bulbs. I also tape pieces of
reflective Mylar ("space blanket") to the fixtures' sides to concentrate
light
on the plants.
I adjust the height of the fluorescent lights so they are nearly touching
the sprouted seedlings, and I use a timer to turn the lights on for 16 hours
and
off for eight hours each day.
Seedlings need less heat than germinating seeds. Most seedlings will grow
best at temperatures of 60 to 70F during the day and night temperatures that
are
10 degrees cooler.
Transplant Seedlings
When seedlings produce their first set of true leaves, it's time to
transplant them into larger containers. Transplanting gives plants room to
grow and
improves air circulation. It also stimulates the growth of bushier feeder
roots.
Fill the transplanting flat (or other larger container) with moistened
growing medium. I recommend you use the same soilless mix used for
germinating the
seeds. Firm the mix to within 1/2 inch of the top of the container. I use
six 2- by 2-inch plastic six-pack pots in each waterproof tray.
I make a planting hole for each seedling with my finger, then use a small
pointed plant marker stake or wooden popsicle stick to lift seedlings. I
hold
each individual plant by its leaves rather than by the stem, using the stake
to lift the roots as I gently pull the plant up.
Keep the rootball intact when setting the plant in its new spot. Most plants
can be set slightly deeper than they were growing in the germination flat.
Firm the soil over and around the newly set plant so that the soil and roots
are in close contact and there are no air pockets.
Set the transplants back under the lights unless they wilt or droop.
Droopers go in a shady, cool spot for a day until they perk up.
Grow to Size
Check your transplants every day by feeling the soil surface. It should be
moist but not soggy. Watering from the bottom directs the water to the root
zone
and prevents puddling on the soil surface, which could lead to damping-off.
It's also less messy. I give the plants a drink of room temperature water
every
three or four days; more often as they get bigger.
Plants without enough light will be weak and leggy. As with the seedlings, I
use four fluorescent lights above each flat and tape reflective mylar to the
front and back sides of the fixtures to maximize the light directed to the
plants. As the transplants grow, I increase the distance between the top of
the plants and the bulbs to about 2 inches so that the light can spread more
evenly over the flats.
I grow transplants at the same temperatures that the seedlings were grown:
60o to 70°F during the day, with temperatures 10 degrees lower at night. You
can slow down fast-growing plants by lowering the temperature while keeping
light levels high.
Transplants do best when the relative humidity is between 50 and 70 percent.
Maintain humidity levels by misting plants with a sprayer, setting flats on
top of trays filled with pebbles and water or covering your light setup with
a plastic tent. Don't keep them too cooped up, though. I give transplants
a little exercise to toughen them up by having a fan lightly blow on them. A
fan can also help prevent green algae or mold from forming on top of the
soil
surface.
I give transplants a constant, lean diet every time I water them. Use
one-quarter the recommended amount of fertilizer per gallon of water.
Hardening Off
Before making the transition to the real world of the garden, transplants
need to toughen up. One week before you begin hardening your plants
outdoors,
cut back the amount of water you give them, stop their fertilizer habit and
keep temperatures slightly cooler.
Harden transplants gradually. Start by putting them outside on a day when
temperatures are above 50°F. Leave them out for just half a day (or less) in
a
sheltered spot protected from strong winds. Be sure to keep the plants
watered, as they dry out more quickly outside.
Over the course of a week, extend the amount of time your transplants spend
outside and increase their exposure to sunlight, wind and a range of
temperatures.
At the end of the week, your plants should be ready to go into the ground. A
cloudy, warm, windless day is best for easing the plants' transition into
their new homes.
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