What do dogs, running children and sharp-edged serving trays have in common?
They can all poke holes through patio screen doors. Luckily, you can repair
the damage yourself in less than an hour. An added bonus is that the steps
shown here also apply to windows.
The first thing you need to do is assess the damage. If it's just a small
hole, you can make a simple repair with a dab of clear silicone caulking.
If it's a major tear, you need to take the door out of its track and replace
the mesh.
: once a screen door has been damaged (above), it's an easy fix to return your
sliding door back to its former bug-proof glory (below).
The existing screening will be fiberglass or aluminum. Either way, you
should use up fiberglass screening for the replacement-it's easier to work
with and it doesn't go brittle with age.
On the other hand, if you're repairing a tear made by your pet Fido or
Fluffy, there's one other alternative to consider: vinyl-coated polyester-often
sold under names such as "pet screen"-is a thicker, more durable alternative to
fiberglass, although it costs more than twice as much.
There are two other items you'll need to pick up: the black rubber
strip-called "spline"-that holds the screen in the frame, and a roller tool to
push it into place. Note that the spline for doors is thicker (0.18"/4.6 mm)
than that for windows (0.16"/4.1 mm). Your local hardware store should stock
everything you need, sold either individually or as a kit.
The first step is to remove the old screen. Use an awl or a nail to pry
up the spline. Once the spline is removed, the screen will come off.
Lay the new screen out over the frame, ensuring there are at least a
couple of inches of overlap all the way around. Starting in one corner, push
the spline into the groove with a screwdriver. Then, using the roller tool in a
back and forth motion, press the spline into place all the way around the
perimeter. (You'll notice there are two ends on the tool. Use the concave end
to push the spline into place. The other end is for pre-creasing aluminum
screen.)
As you're working your way around, keep in mind that you want the screen
to be taut, but not so much so that it bows the frame. Also make sure you
don't let the screen bunch up and overlap. A 45° cut in the corners will help
prevent this. Most important, take your time to do it right.
1. Begin by using an awl to pry the spline from one corner. Once you have it
going, pull it out all the way around the perimeter. The old screen will fall
away from the frame.
2. You'll have to decide whether you want to use fiberglass screen-which is
easiest to work with-or the more durable (and expensive), tear-resistant
vinyl-coated
polyester "pet screen".
3. Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to push one end of the spline into a
corner to get started. Angle it toward the frame so you don't slip and poke a
hole through the screen.
4. Lay the screen over the frame, then using the concave end of the screen
roller tool, seat the spline deep into the groove all the way around the
perimeter
of the door.
5. Pull the screen taut as you go, but not so taut that you distort the frame
and pull it out of square. Take your time, especially at corners, to avoid
overlapping and pinching any excess.
6. Cut into the corners at a 45°-angle to make the job go smoother. Use a small
flathead screwdriver to push the rubber spline into the groove in the corners
of the frame.
7. Once you've pushed the spline in all the way around the perimeter, use a
utility knife to cut off the spline at the appropriate length and push the loose
end into the groove.
8. Use a utility knife with the blade angled toward the frame to cut away the
excess screen material. Be careful not to trim too much away or you'll have
to start all over again.
9. To get the door back in its track, use a flathead screwdriver to pry up the
wheels at the bottom of the frame while lifting up the door so you can slide
it into place.
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