Hi Dale and the gang:

Yes they do state that you have to acclimatize the boards for approximately 10 
days. I have
installed them in my basement and they can be hard to fit together. The methods 
you described to
snap them was the same we used. There is a kit available to install the 
floating floors that
includes the tapping block.

Cheers
Guy Castonguay
Ottawa, Ontario


--- Dale Leavens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> You don't work in from the edges to the middle, just a few rows. This allows 
> you to shift the
> remaining couple of courses but keeps you away from one wall. By floating I 
> meant you to
> understand that you don't fit the floor tight to the walls.
> 
> Still, I am surprised to hear that you had to apply that much force to get 
> the laminate to
> interconnect. I don't remember if they recommend acclimatizing those 
> composite floors to the
> building for a couple of days before laying it to equalize the humidity or 
> not. They do with
> real wood flooring.
> 
> Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Skype DaleLeavens
> Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
> 
> 
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Max Robinson 
>   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 2:34 PM
>   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Teddybear cottage, the floor.
> 
> 
>   Dale. If you worked in from the edges, somewhere in the middle you would 
>   have to fit in 3 sides. That would be totally impossible not almost 
>   impossible as it is with 2 sides. You have to tilt up the one you are 
>   installing, lock into the one that is there and lower it down. Then you 
>   have to slide the new one to the side to engage the one beside it. The 
>   floor is completely floating. We screwed down the sub floor.
> 
>   Regards.
> 
>   Max. K 4 O D S.
> 
>   Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
>   Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
>   Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
>   Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
> 
>   To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
>   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>   To: <blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com>
>   Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 8:45 PM
>   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Teddybear cottage, the floor.
> 
>   > Max,
>   >
>   > The pros carefully measure and center the lay-out to balance the edges so 
>   > that there is the same partial width on both edges. They also leave a 
>   > slight gap so that the field floats. This allows for any dimensional 
>   > changes although those laminates tend to be pretty stable and so will the 
>   > sawdust MDF immediately below.
>   >
>   > To keep you away from the edges like that they may lay a couple of 
> courses 
>   > at the edge then fill the field up to them. You can then lift the edge 
>   > that little bit and snap the field into it when you get there. The trim 
>   > covers the gap at the edges.
>   >
>   > Hope this helps.
>   >
>   > Another tip, pull any nails which migrate up and replace with screws. 
>   > Because the buildings are fairly new this may be the joists drying out 
> but 
>   > I suspect they may be a little light and are bouncing just a little as 
> you 
>   > move across them causing the sheeting to pull the nails up then releasing 
>   > them until the next time you drag your big over them. If this is so you 
>   > will be glad to have left a little gap around the edge for movement. Even 
>   > when laid on concrete though the field is intended to float and should be 
>   > a quarter inch or a little better shy all around.
>   >
>   > Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
>   > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>   > Skype DaleLeavens
>   > Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
>   >
>   >
>   > ----- Original Message ----- 
>   > From: Max Robinson
>   > To: Blind Handyman
>   > Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 8:30 PM
>   > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Teddybear cottage, the floor.
>   >
>   >
>   > Next, the floor. The floor provided by the builders was most
>   > unsatisfactory. First of all, some of the pieces of plywood were thicker
>   > than others. There were large headed nails driven in at an angle. The 
>   > ones
>   > that were straight kept popping up. No matter how many times we pounded
>   > them down they kept rearing their ugly heads again.
>   >
>   > On the advice of the people in the flooring department at Lowe's,
>   >
>   > we put sheets of 3/4 inch MDF over the old flooring making sure not to 
>   > use
>   > the same layout so seems would not coincide. It was fastened down with
>   > liquid nails and woodscrews in the corners. It came out nice and flat.
>   >
>   > Next, we put down laminated floor tiles with padding on the back.
>   >
>   > The tiles are approximately 4 feet by 1 foot and have edges something 
>   > like a
>   > tung and groove with a catch on the tung that catches in the groove and
>   > holds them together once locked in place. These are on all four sides. 
>   > The
>   > instructions say to alternate the short seams which gives a stair-step
>   > appearance.
>   >
>   > The first row was just laid down and locked together end to end working
>   > right to left. To start the second row the first tile had to be cut in
>   > half. These went down and the third row started with another whole tile.
>   >
>   > It wasn't quite as easy as the salesman said it would be. The long edges
>   > were fairly easy, just lift up the edge of the tile, lock it to the
>   > previously laid one and lay it down. It would lock in place. That was OK
>   > for the long edge but the second in a row, and all subsequent ones to the
>   > left, required that the newly added tile had to be slid to the right 
>   > without
>   > being lifted up to engage the short seam. One of the half pieces was
>   > pressed into service for this. It was placed against the short seam which
>   > matched so considerable force could be put on it without damaging the 
>   > wanted
>   > tile. The cut end could be pounded on with a hammer to force the good 
>   > tile
>   > to move and engage the next one down. Then the "tool" could be removed
>   > leaving an undamaged edge for the next one in line. This piece of tile 
>   > was
>   > a scrap that was of no further use.
>   >
>   > When the wall on the left was reached a tile had to be cut to fill the
>   > remaining space. The "tool" could not be used here because all the space
>   > had been filled. The tiles had to be cut short enough to allow something 
>   > to
>   > be wedged in between the end of the tile and the wall to force it to the
>   > right. We started by prying with a large file but that wouldn't go far
>   > enough. Next we inserted the claws of a claw-hammer into the crack and
>   > pried against the wall. This resulted in some damaged paneling and also
>   > broken edges of the tiles. Most of the damage was covered by the base 
>   > board
>   > and quarter round but there are still a couple of broken places showing 
>   > both
>   > in the paneling and the floor tiles. Some well placed furniture will 
>   > cover
>   > these mistakes.
>   >
>   > It seems impossible to make the last one in line lock in place without 
>   > doing
>   > some damage to the wall and tiles. I wonder how the hell the pros do it.
>   >
>   > Regards.
>   >
>   > Max. K 4 O D S.
>   >
>   > Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>   >
>   > Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
>   > Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
>   > Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
>   >
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>   > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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>   >
>   >
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>   > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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