All table saws share the same basic anatomy: They all have a base, a
table and extension wings, rails and a rip fence, a motor, trunnions,
gearing to raise
and tilt the blade, and an arbor and arbor assembly. But the huskiness
and durability of these components vary depending on the quality of the
saw in general,
and on the intended use of the saw. In this article, we'll cover the
basics of table saw terminology, and help you understand the features
that really
matter when you're shopping for a new saw.

The
Powermatic Model 4A
picturedabove is an open based saw. The motor is mounted to the back of
the saw and the bottom of the base is open.

The Base
The base houses the working parts of the saw, including the trunnions,
the arbor assembly, the sector gears, and sometimes the motor.  On some
saws, the
base is a "cabinet" type, meaning that a fully enclosed base extends all
the way to the floor. Other saws have an open base, meaning that the
base consists
of an open metal box that surrounds the internal working parts of the
saw. Open base saws have legs that extend from the bottom of the base to
the floor.

Recently, a few "hybrid" saws that combine the features of a cabinet
base and an open base have appeared on the market. These saws have legs,
but the base
is enclosed on all sides to facilitate dust collection and limit noise.

The Table and Extension Wings
The table and extensions plays an extremely important role in the
overall performance of the saw.  The table needs to be reliably flat and
durable to properly
support the workpiece being cut. Cast iron is the material of choice for
the table and extensions.  on a quality saw, the table is made using
state of
the art foundry methods and is precision ground to flatness in the
.0005' tolerance range.

Table extension wings bolt on to the right and left sides of the table
and increase the surface area of the saw to help support wide stock and
sheet materials.
 On a heavy duty stationary saw, the extensions are usually cast iron,
while on smaller saws, they may be made of lighter stamped steel or the
lighter
"webbed" style of cast iron.

One drawback of lighter-weight table extensions is that they - of course
- have less mass, and the overall mass of the saw is what soaks up the
vibration
crated by the motor and other moving parts. The added mass of heavy cast
iron extension wings decreases vibration, which in turn helps the saw
stay in
calibration, and, incidentally, helps it stay firmly planted on the shop
floor.  On less expensive saws, extensions made of stamped metal, or
ones that
aren't precision ground, can also compromise the overall flatness of the
table surface.

The fence system offered standard with the
Jet JWSS Supersaw
(above) and many Powermatic contractor saws are patterned after the
famous Biesemeyer design, bringing the accuracy and reliability of a
professional-class
fence system to affordable contractor and hybrid saws.

The Rip Fence and Rails
The rip fence guides the wood as it is being ripped (cut along it's
length) and can be positioned to any width of cut within the saw's
range. The fence
rides on fence rails attached to the front and rear edge of the table.
Ideally, the system keeps the fence perfectly parallel to the plane of
the blade,
regardless of where the fence is positioned.

The quality and accuracy of fence systems, however, varies greatly
across the  spectrum. The quality of a table saw's fence system is an
extremely important
consideration: A poorly designed or inaccurate fence greatly diminishes
the quality and accuracy of the cut, and can be a source of significant
frustration.
For saws in the price range of most hobbyists, the famous Biesemeyer
T-square fence design sets the standard. Fence systems like the Jet
XACTA and Powermatic's
Accu-Fence are the norm on professional-class stationary saws and,
happily, are also available many smaller and less costly Jet and
Powermatic models.

The Miter Gauge
Most table saws use the miter gauge and miter slot system to allow for
crosscutting. A miter gauge consists of a cast metal protractor head
attached to
a length of metal bar. The bar rides in corresponding "miter slot" in
the table saw's surface. Protractor on the "no frills" miter gauges that
come with
most table saws can be set to crosscut stock at any angle between 90 and
30 degrees and, if well made, do a serviceable job with most "routine"
crosscutting.

Most table saws come standard with a serviceable, no-frills miter gauge.
The optional slide table and upgraded miter gauge on the
Jet JWSS Supersaw
adds precision crosscutting features, including a cam-lock material
clamp and positive stops for common angles to the standard package.
One of the more useful add-ons for just about any table saw is either an
upgraded system offered by the manufacturer, or an aftermarket miter
gauge or crosscutting
sled. These tools provide, in various combinations, repeatable
incremental angle positioning, longer fences, stop blocks and other
advanced features that
can come in handy in projects that call for precision crosscutting.

The Motor, Trunnions, and Arbor Assembly
The motor, trunnions, arbor assembly, and gearing make up the essential
mechanical components of the saw. These quality and robustness of these
components
vary considerably from saw to saw and can greatly impact the durability
of the saw and it's capacity for cutting heavy stock and it's ability to
stay in
adjustment and hold settings.

Most table saws - other than "jobsite" and bench top models - are
equipped with induction type motors in the 1 - 5 HP range.  On better
quality saws, you'll
find a "totally enclosed fan cooled" (TEFC) induction motor, which makes
sense, because a TEFC motor is sealed against dust and other
contaminants (a significant
advantage in a woodshop) and is designed for continuous duty.

Saws specifically designed for hobbyists and home use are usually
outfitted with motors under 3 HP and can be operated on standard 110
volt residential
circuitry.  In general, motors in this class are powerful enough for
routine cutting of sheet goods and hardwoods up to 1' thick.
Professional class saws,
on the other hand, have motors in the 3- 5 HP range and require a 220
volt power supply.  Motors in this category are designed to stand up to
hours and
hours of continuous duty, and have enough power to cut even thick, heavy
hardwood stock without bogging down.

The arbor assembly is made up of the arbor and the sector gear for
raising and lowering the blade. The arbor is the shaft that holds the
blade and, on all
American stationary saws that use a 10' blade, is 5/8' in diameter where
the blade is attached. On some larger and higher quality saws, the arbor
is larger
in diameter through the bearings to allow for more substantial bearings,
and is turned down to 5/8' to accommodate the blade. The sector gear is
an arc
shaped gear that operates in conjunction with a worm gear attached to an
adjustment wheel to raise and lower the blade.  The gearing on better
saws includes
an adjustment mechanism to take up slack in the gearing and limit
backlash.

The front and rear trunnions - along with the yoke, which joins the two
- are what hold the motor and arbor assembly in place.  The trunnions
are of interest
because they are what hold the blade in alignment with the rip fence and
miter slot, and also because they play a role in absorbing vibration
form the
motor and blade and transferring it to the mass of the saw's base and
table. Trunnions with a "wide stance" (trunnions that span most of the
width of the
base have a wide stance) tend to improve the stability of the arbor
assembly. The general rule of thumb is: the better the saw, the more
substantial the
trunnions.

Also, it's important to consider whether the trunnions mount to the base
of the saw or the underside of the table.  Trunnions that mount to the
base (the
standard on professional-class saws) make aligning the blade with the
miter slot and fence much easier: The motor, arbor assembly, trunnions
and base stay
bolted together as a single unit while the table is brought into
alignment with the blade, rather than awkward prospect of having to
loosen the trunnions
assembly from the bottom of the table and bring it into alignment with
the table top.

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