Now I know why I prefer sweating copper. You can test it and use it immediately.
These days though I don't think I would use anything else but PEX for a new installation or an extensive one. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. ----- Original Message ----- From: Lenny McHugh To: Handyman-Blind Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 6:49 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] How To Glue PVC Pipe #15 published by: Aquatic Eco-Systems, Inc. © 2004 Aquatic Eco-Systems, Inc. list of 10 items 1. Square pipe ends and remove all burrs, dirt and debris. 2. Check the dry fit of the pipe and fitting. The pipe should easily fit in one-third of the way. Pipe should not bottom when dry; it should be a snug fit. 3. Clean pipe and fitting with PVC cleaner, then prime with Purple Primer. Choose proper PVC cement based on desired cure time (regular cement requires 24-hour cure vs "Rain Tight" 1-hour cure for low-pressure applications). 4. Apply a thin coat of PVC cement to fitting, avoiding puddling inside of pipe. Make certain the entire socket surface is covered. 5. Apply a liberal coat of PVC cement to pipe. Make certain the entire pipe surface to the socket depth is covered. 6. Quickly assemble parts. Cement must be fluid when attaching segments. If not, reapply cement to both parts. 7. Push pipe FULLY into fitting using a 1/4 turn motion until pipe bottoms. 8. Hold pipe and fitting together for 30 seconds, then wipe off excess glue with a cloth. Watch that it doesn't creep back. 9. Keep cement container tightly closed when not in use. 10. Do not pressure test until cement is fully cured, usually 24 hours. list end source: http://www.aquaticeco.com/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
