Sounds like a workable plan. I don't think you mentioned scoring the drywall on the good side also. So it is scored on the back and front side then wacking it with the wood block or even a hammer might work. A blank handy box cover is the closest sized cover plate to use. Some of the plastic boxes may require a little additional trimming at the top and bottom, but very little. If you are using metal boxes some would require a notch in a couple of corners. Likely this will result in a better fit than many sighted people get. They depend on the mudder to fill in those voids. Remember also if a person is using the larger metal boxex a plaster or mud ring is used so bad cuts are a lot easier to mud around. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: Don To: [email protected] Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 11:51 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cutting dry wall
Sure sounds like a workable plan to me. Worth a try. Regards ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Gallik To: [email protected] Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 11:24 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] cutting dry wall As I've read the several posts concerning this thread I began to give this some serious thought. The last time I worked with drywall I was still able to see so I did things a bit differently than I would do them now; to compensate for total blindness of course. Here's a thought I came up with for creating electrical box cut outs: I would now place headless bolts into the receiving holes of the electrical box so that pressing the drywall firmly against the box (making certain the drywall is in the exact correct position relative to already installed drywall) will produce small holes in the drywall sheet being prepared. These headless bolts should extend out of the electrical box just enough to facilitate creating the "guide holes." Then, remove the drywall sheet and locating these "guide holes," fasten an electrical box faceplate to this back side of the drywall. You can then use this face plate as a guide for neatly scoring the drywall. Now with the screws that fastened the face plate to the back side of the drywall, expose the front side of the drywall, locate the screws, place an appropriately sized block of wood (or some other "scratch" material) in the center of the exposed screw points and whack it hard enough to knock out the portion of drywall that has been scored on the back side. Now, if you're wondering what I mean by an electrical box face plate this would be a flat (or nearly flat) metal plate with a rectangular hole for an electrical receptacle or a switch. The plate should be precisely the same size as the width and length of the electrical box so it can serve as an accurate guide for scoring the back of the drywall to create a knock out that will snugly accommodate the front of the electrical box. There may be some minor adjustments to be made, but I have confidence in all you blind handy men out there. ----------------- Bill Gallik E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - "Loneliness is a Demon that no man can overcome by himself." [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
