This type of pan does come in various sizes and thickness.
The larger pans are also referred to as *sheet pans* and are used in
commercial food service establishments to bake bread, pies and lotws of
other things on.
For home use I would sugges what is called a *half sheet pan* it is more
like 12x18 or 20 and does fit into a home size oven. The full sheet pan is
just about 34 or so inches long and about 18 to 20 inches wide.
Cy, the Ancient oKie... 

   _____  

From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 4:26 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: saughtering was Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!



It's a very shallow rectangular pan, often made of aluminum and has sides
about a half inch high. The one I use is about 9 inches long and maybe 14
inches long or so. I'm in the house and it isn't so I can only guess at
sizes right now. I'm sure they go by different names even in the US but it's
basically a piece designed to bake things on in the oven. 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: David W Wood 
To: HYPERLINK
"mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com"[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 1:54 AM
Subject: RE: saughtering was Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!

What is a cookie sheet 

-----Original Message-----
From: HYPERLINK
"mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com"[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:HYPERLINK
"mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com"[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bob
Kennedy
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 12:29 AM
To: HYPERLINK
"mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com"[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: saughtering was Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate
plumbing!

One thing I keep in my plumbing supplies is a cookie sheet.
I have drilled an extra hole on the far end, most cookie
sheets come with a hole already in one end. I suspend the
cookie sheet with a couple pieces of perforated or plumbers
strap. The sheet works as a buffer between the flame and
the wood. I turn it so the sides of the sheet are away from
the pipe making sure to give a little dead space in case it
has to be close to the floor or wall beyond the actual
joint. So far I haven't lost a house... 

If you are wondering how to learn soldering, don't start
between joists or under a house. Buy a length of copper
pipe and some joints like elbows, Ts are probably the
toughest to get right, a union and so on. Pick up a tub of
flux, I like the petroleum based kind but you can play with
both kinds. Grab a pound of solder and start making joints
in your vice. When you learn how to make the solder roll
around the edge of the fitting and leave a small drop on the
bottom you can be sure water will stay inside the pipe
instead of spraying out around a bunch of solder piled on a
connection. 

It really is enjoyable and a useful skill to have if you
like making repairs around your house and saving at least
$50 an hour for the plumber coming over.

----- Original Message -----
From: Dale Leavens
To: HYPERLINK
"mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com"[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 6:47 PM
Subject: Re: saughtering was Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate
plumbing!

Pretty well the same way that a sighted person does it.
Electrical soldering is probably a little more difficult
because the components are so small and landing the tip of
the iron and the tip of the solder without accidentally
dropping some where you don't want it and keeping a wire,
the solder and the iron all where they need to be without
seeing takes a lot of dexterity, patience and skill.

Soldering pipe on the other hand is pretty gross by
comparison.

You clean and flux the fittings and press them together
then strike your flame. You can pretty well feel the joint
with the end of the torch to locate pretty accurately where
to apply the heat. The flame makes a different noise when
the hot point is in contact with the copper but although
this is the most efficient heat transfer it is not
absolutely necessary and not necessary all of the time, it
will just take longer to get the pipe hot enough for the
solder to flow.

As described in the article Ray sent, I pull a couple of
turns off of the roll of solder, bend 3 or 4 inches over
then fairly rapidly start some couple of inches away from
the fitting I slide the bent over point toward the fitting
until I feel it touch. If the pipe is hot enough the
contacting end of the solder melts and you can feel it
shrinking, just move it left and right a little so the
melting solder will run around the joint and into the joint.

I try to remember to keep a wet rag handy so I can cool
the joint rapidly enough to inspect it without waiting half
a day.

If in doubt keep the heat on the joint. If it gets too hot
it will only spatter and waist a little solder but it is
fairly cheap and only hurts a little if it splashes on you.

That is my short version of the process.

I admit I have a little more trouble with 3/4 inch pipe
because of the larger surface area it is necessary to wash
the joint with more heat and usually works best to play the
flame around all sides of the joint which can be a little
more challenging, particularly in situ. I try to assemble as
much as is practical on the bench so I don't spend a lot of
time on a ladder up under the floor or between joists. I
tend to be a little impatient though and sometimes apply the
solder a little early. Nothing for it but to start all over
again.

I hope this helps.

Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
HYPERLINK "mailto:DLeavens%40puc.net"[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear
habitat.

----- Original Message -----
From: Shane Hecker
To: HYPERLINK
"mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com"[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 6:12 PM
Subject: saughtering was Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate
plumbing!

How does a totally blind person go about saughtering? Just
wondering as I've never done it nor seen anyone do it
before.

Shane

----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Kennedy
To: HYPERLINK
"mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com"[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!

Always the odd ball, I like plumbing. It has gotten a bit
harder to solder since they have done away with led in the
solder but I can still sweat a pipe together. 

For those that don't like risking a fire in the house,
they now make a solderless compound for copper pipes. It is
much like the C A form of epoxy I use to build golf clubs
with. It comes in a can and you brush it on like the stuff
used with PVC. Great idea for places where a torch is
dangerous. I'll find the link and send it along later.

----- Original Message -----
From: David Ferrin
To: HYPERLINK
"mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com"[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!

The question is who if anybody likes plumbing actually. Oh
the joys of
owning a home.
David Ferrin
www.jaws-users.-com
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Rossi
To: HYPERLINK
"mailto:BlindHandyman%40yahoogroups.com"[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 1:39 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] I hate plumbing!

This weekend was spent in battle with the pipes. The war
was waged on two
fronts, the kitchen faucet, and an unused toilet in the
basement.

the faucet had the upper hand for a while, but it now lays
in many pieces
at the bottom of my trash. Score one for the blind guy!

This was an old faucet with three separate mountings, one
each for the two
taps, and one for the faucet itself. I spent a lot of time
under the sink
with the mother of all basin wrenches trying to get the
nuts off the taps
to no avail. I tried taking them out from above, but there
was no way to
grab onto the little collars, which also happened to be
puttied to the
sink surface. Much to Teresa's dismay, I, screaming that I
would exact my
vengeance on the faucet, ran to the basement and retrieved
my Dremel.
Several broken cutting disks later, after much prying,
cursing and
snarling, the taps and faucet were removed from the sink
and the sink
surface was not marred from the Dremel.

Of course, after I slid the new faucet in place, the flex
tubes attached
to the faucet were not long enough to reach the shut-offs
under the sink.
That meant, not surprisingly, another trip to the store,
but that had to
wait until Sunday.

Sunday morning I took a closer look at the toilet in the
basement. This
is a cruddy old toilet stuck in the corner of the basement
with a plywood
wall on none side and a partial plywood door. These are
very common in
Pittsburgh. The guts of the tank were completely rusted
and broken and
since the shut-off to the toilet didn't actually shut the
water off, there
had been a paint can wedged into the tank to keep the fill
valve closed.
I had upgraded the paint can to a 20 pound dumbell but
figured I should
probably fix the shut-off and take care of the tank guts
while I was at
it.

Off to the store. We found some flexible tubes to extend
the faucet lines
and I installed them as soon as we got home. Had a lot of
trouble getting
the sprayer attachment threaded onto the under-side of the
faucet, but
Teresa eventually got her hands in there and got it
tightened down. New
faucet, with a single handle, works fine, of course, the
brand new, $108
faucet has an itty bitty drip.

Back down to the basement to lead the attack on the
toilet.

Turns out that the water connection to the tank was pretty
clugy. Check
this out, step by step:

Long Copper pipe literally hangs down from the ceiling
joists,
threaded fitting sweated onto end of Copper pipe,
shut-off screwed onto fitting,
short, threaded, black iron pipe screwed into shut-off,
elbow screwed into black iron,
horizontal copper sweated into elbow,
elbow sweated into other end of horizontal Copper,
Some kind of fitting, possibly compression, bodged onto
elbow,
finally into tank.

I managed to get the shut-off replaced with a ball valve
without too much
trouble. I managed to get the guts of the tank changed
with a lot of
work, having to cut and tare out some of the old parts. I
could not get
the funky assembly described above to go back into the new
tank connection
without leaking rather impressively. So, we are at a draw
at the moment,
but I intend on replacing most of that assembly with a
flexible hose.

Nearly panicked when in an attempt to identify what branch
of my house
plumbing has a slow leak, I turned off a shut-off and it
proceeded to gush
water like a hose. I got the main valve for the house shut
and messed
around with the shut-off for a while and cranked it open
again and it
seems to be happy for the time being. I'm starting to
contemplate
replacing all my shut-offs with ball valves. Replacing
everything with
PEX actually sounds very good at the moment, although I
think Teresa might
hang me with the PEX if I attempt a job like that.
Certainly not before
the deck railings are done.

I hate plumbing!

--
Blue skies.
Dan Rossi
Carnegie Mellon University.
E-Mail: HYPERLINK "mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu"[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: (412) 268-9081

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To listen to the show archives go to link
HYPERLINK
"http://acbradio.org/handyman.html"http://acbradio.-org/handyman.-html or
HYPERLINK
"ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/"ftp://ftp.acbradio.-org/
acbradio--archives/-handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
HYPERLINK
"http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday"http://www.acbrad
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Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions
>From Various List Members At The Following address:
HYPERLINK
"http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/"http://www.jaws--users.com/-JAWS/h
andyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
HYPERLINK
"http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/"http://www.mail-
-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/ 

If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit
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For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the
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