Bob, great post, don't worry about the long answer. 
That is the kind of detailed post,  that folks need
allot of times on a project, such as this.  I'm glad
you car guys, are here on list.  Their will always be
auto questions, of one type are another.  Regards  

--- Bob Kennedy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Well you have a job ahead of you to be sure. 
> Especially if you are in a part of the country where
> rust is a problem.  
> 
> What I can tell you about reading written
> instructions is they all to often assume you have to
> see what you are doing and often times outline a
> whole list of things to be removed.  They are
> removed so they can see the rest of the parts.  On
> the other hand, guys like me with hands that weren't
> designed to fit in tight places require things to be
> removed that sometimes shouldn't be...
> 
> I'm trying to place the 3.4 engine because this age
> was nearing the end of Oldsmobile's lifetime.  The
> easiest way to find the thermostat on any car I can
> think of is to follow the top radiator hose.  It
> will end at a pipe that leads to, or a housing for
> the thermostat.  On many of the GM V6 engines, 3.4
> is such a beast, the thermostat is on what is called
> the back end of the engine.  Strange term since the
> engine runs sideways.  For those that don't know,
> right and left are directions given on a car as if
> you are sitting in the driver's seat.  So the back
> of this engine is on the left side of the car even
> though it's on your right as you face the engine. 
> Don't feel too confused, people in parts stores get
> confused too.
> 
> Anyway, the back is always where the transmission
> bolts on.  At that end of the engine will be your
> airflow hose and air filter box.  That hose will
> more than likely need to be removed.  There will be
> some small heater hoses and pipes in the way and
> removal is a pain.  Be careful if you decide to bend
> instead of remove the pipes and their brackets. 
> There is also a M A F (mass air flow) sensor that
> may have to be removed.  The dreaded crossover
> exhaust pipe will be right in the way as well. 
> There is a shield over the pipe itself and I don't
> like to mess with them unless there is no way around
> it.  If they don't go back together just so there
> will be a new noise under the hood.
> 
> The thermostat housing is held in place with 2 13
> millimeter bolt heads.  The one on the top left has
> to come all the way out.  The bottom right of the
> housing is usually slotted and the bolt only needs
> to be loosened.  There is usually enough slack in
> the hoses to wiggle the housing off and bend out of
> the way.  
> 
> Be sure to clean the area well before putting back
> together.  This means scrape any gasket or sealer
> from both surfaces and spraying with a cleaner, my
> favorite is sold under many names but it's used to
> clean brakes.  Personal choice but I will usually
> leave out the gasket going back together and instead
> use the "blue goo" silicone sealer.  Just don't get
> too happy spreading that stuff everywhere because
> you can stick a thermostat if you have too much.  
> 
> Just remember to use lots of thread loosener.  And
> keep in mind thread loosener is petroleum based and
> you need to be extremely careful not to get it on
> hoses.  It will turn them into a balloon and you'll
> have a whole other problem then.
> 
> Sorry for such a long answer to say yes the exhaust
> pipe will be in the way...
> 
> 
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Ron Yearns 
>   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 9:12 PM
>   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] oldsmobile thermostat
> 
> 
>   Well gentle handypersons it appears I may have a
> leak around the thermostat 
>   housing and a stuck open thermostat on our Olds
> 2002 van with a 3.4 engine. 
>   The book calls for removal of the exhaust pipe
> before removing the stat 
>   housing. I haven't opened things up to confirm but
> was wondering if others 
>   have done this task and if the crossover pipe
> removal was totally necessary. 
>   I am fearful of breaking manifold studs.
> Suggestions and insights would be 
>   appreciated.
>   Ron 
> 
> 
> 
>    
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
> 
> 

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