And just remember it doesn't take loads of torque to seat a plug. My wrists over the years have gotten fairly strong and I hold the ratchet pretty close to the near end when I run them back in. When they bottom out I don't like to give a full quarter turn more. They will go but coming back out is the catch... ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Howell To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 5:43 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] changing spark plugs
And although I did not mention this, I used that material for sure. I should have pointed that out because you are absolutely correct and being that I hope to have this beast for a few more years, I'm sure I'll be changing the plugs and thus would be the sucker who doesn't want to have to do something extreme to get the old plugs out. grin On Jun 1, 2008, at 3:04 AM, Larry Stansifer wrote: > Please be advised the subject line has been modified to reflect the > general > information contained in the following message. > > Having spent my entire career working with aluminum I found that any > time > you install spark-plugs or for that matter almost any threaded > fastener into > an aluminum assembly you are well advised to use just a touch of > nickel > based anti seize compound on the threads. This is especially true of > spark-plugs because you might be the poor sucker who removes them on > the > next tune-up. After thousands of miles of heating and cooling steel > and > aluminum develop a very-very close relationship. > Bob, I am certain that you found this to be true in the marine > industry as > well. > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
