I'll probably do the setup like tiles since it will be inlay into the 
table. Wonder if I should use a different type of glue than standard 
wood glue since I won't be able to clamp the tiles that well. It will 
have to be very exact measuring on my part to get it to fit without any 
spaces showing, but if I go the black squares on a white backing that 
problem would be solved. However, the problem then is glue getting on 
the white squares.
Yeah, I want to drill holes for the pieces to sit in.
I'll most likely use a scratch awl, square, and click rule to draw a 
grid. Luckily I have a drill press so drilling accurate holes is not too 
hard.
I've always thought about making a jig out of an l-shaped wood fence and 
t-tracks and two click rules to line up for drilling holes. The fence 
would be able to move to any coordinate using the two click rules, one 
for x and one for y movement. Of course you'd have to calibrate and 
clamp it to the drill press, but that wouldn't be so hard. Once I had it 
lined up the first time I'd attach a dowel to the bottom of the device 
to fit in the hole of the drill press table.
Only problem with such a jig is the price of click rules isn't cheap. If 
I made them easily removable however it'd be ok since I already own two 
of them.
I can picture such a jig quite well, but not sure I explained it well. 
the other option is to make a XY table like on cctv's and use a click 
rule to measure and set the x and y axis.
I could take it a step further and use a computer to control stepper 
motors to control a table on threaded rods, a motor to bring the drill 
down, make hole placement and drilling automatic. I'll do that if I ever 
decide to mass produce something with a bunch of holes in it.
I have been thinking of making an accessible cnc machine for a while now.

David

Dale Leavens wrote:
>
> Why glue with dowels? Just glue the squares onto the maple substrate.
>
> Gluing up alternate thickness strips though shouldn't be all that 
> difficult. You could I suppose lay waxed strips between the thickest 
> strips so glue doesn't stick to them and they will be used to help you 
> level them up. Dowels or biscuits registered off of the flat side 
> would be another way of gluing the variable thickness strips together 
> accurately. Then you could rip and reassemble.
>
> Finally, if the playing surface is below the table level just cut them 
> all into 64 squares and lay them as tiles. You could cut 33 of the 
> black tiles and use the odd one as a spacer to help you locate and 
> glue the black ones accurately onto the white substrate.
>
> Will you bore holes to accept pegged chess pieces? I find accurately 
> locating that sort of hole pattern far more challenging.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David Sexton
> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 8:44 AM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] making a chessboard
>
> I'm going to make a table with a chessboard in the middle. I will use
> maple for the white squares and walnut for the black squares. The
> standard way to make a chess board is to cut the boards into strips,
> clue the strips so the colors alternate, crosscut the striped board,
> flip every other strip end for end and glue back together... Instant
> chessboard.
> This is perfect except here's the problem: I want to make an accessible
> chess board, most accessible chessboards have the black squares raised
> about an eighth inch above the white squares. Gluing up boards of
> different thicknesses is difficult at best. Drilling square holes is an
> option I suppose if I wanna drill 32 of them, but that probably won't
> look great. Most accessible chessboards I've seen have a solid particle
> board white backing with an overlay of usually plastic for the black
> squares. Not sure how easy it would be to cut such an overlay from 
> plywood.
> Maybe I could have a backing of maple ply, drill holes in the center of
> each square, cut out walnut squares, drill holes in them and glue each
> square in place with a dowel to hold them in place, drill out the dowel
> when it drys...
> Any other ideas?
>
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