Ah, well then we are on the same page. That is exactly how I did it. I  
got it affixed to the straight edge, scored and snapped while standing  
on it. grin Yep, worked pretty well. My first piece wasn't beautiful,  
but I'll do a little better I'm sure with the next piece.

On Aug 19, 2008, at 7:02 PM, Dale Leavens wrote:

> You can cut shapes like that but you do have to be a little careful  
> marking with the knife and controlling the bend as you snap the  
> laminate but I have done it many times.
>
> with a fresh blade in the utility knife you can usually cut right  
> through for a small distance but just most way is usually easily  
> enough.
>
> I usually end up standing on the straight edge with a rubber sole  
> shoe and bending over to do the scoring.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Scott Howell
> To: [email protected]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 12:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] using table saw cut laminate, sharp  
> cutting tool
>
> Yes, it does work. I found that lucky me the straight edge I was using
> was only a little wider than the piece I am attaching the stuff too.
> So, I just taped it on, scored as best I could, and started snapping.
> So far it's a bit better than it was and now to set about filing the
> bugger and see how that goes. If this works, I'll do the next piece. I
> probably am making this more difficult for myself, but I was trying to
> cut one continuous piece which looks like a letter L with a very very
> short bottom piece. Well that actually makes up the backsplash.
>
> On Aug 19, 2008, at 7:24 AM, Dale Leavens wrote:
>
> > But why!!
> >
> > Scratch & snap is so quick and easy!
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Lenny McHugh
> > To: [email protected]
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 6:49 AM
> > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] using table saw cut laminate, sharp
> > cutting tool
> >
> > Dale, Like you I have had the problem where thin plastic laminate  
> went
> > under the rip fence. To solve this I used a piece of vinyl J-
> > channel. I just
> > then had to add about 1/16" to the cut width.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 11:59 PM
> > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] sharp cutting tool
> >
> > Trouble with using something like a table saw even with a find tooth
> > blade
> > is that it will chip pretty badly and the edge wants to crawl under
> > the rip
> > fence ultimately binding or running off straight. If you can hold it
> > down
> > tightly to the table surface and run the blade backward that helps
> > but a
> > nice scratch and snap is really so much easier! Depending on the
> > grade a
> > sharp knife will go most way through anyway.
> >
> > Trimming with a file is the recommended method by the manufacture or
> > it was
> > before routers became so available, back in the day when we  
> weren't so
> > affluent. I bought my first router at an auction for fifty bucks
> > because I
> > figured I wanted to try one but was afraid to pay full price and
> > wind up
> > with an expensive tool I couldn't safely use. At that it was half a
> > days pay
> > for me back in 1980. I have had five more since and there is at
> > least one
> > more I would like to have.
> >
> > To trim with a file you apply your file at a slight angle off of the
> > adjoining surface running the teeth toward the adjoining surface.  
> For
> > example, trimming the vertical edge piece to the top surface of a
> > table you
> > point the direction of the file in the direction of the flat surface
> > grinding the top edge of the vertical edge but run the file at about
> > 15
> > degrees off of horizontal.
> >
> > As I get close I then run the file sideways the length of the edge  
> but
> > sustain the angle so the file won't spoil the finish on the flat
> > surface.
> > Even after finishing with a router I usually like to make a few
> > passes with
> > a file to put a touch of a bevel and make the edge near perfect.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Tom Vos
> > To: [email protected]
> > Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 11:11 PM
> > Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] sharp cutting tool
> >
> > I have run plastic laminate through my table saw. I put a fine tooth
> > plywood blade in it, then go slowly through.
> > I agree, that it should be cut a little over size and trimmed with  
> the
> > router bit. I've never tried the file, but that might work well too.
> > Blessings,
> > Tom
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: [email protected]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Scott Howell
> > Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 7:57 AM
> > To: [email protected]
> > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] sharp cutting tool
> >
> > THankws, I figured that a saw would likely make more a mess and that
> > is also why I avoided using it. I wasn't so sure about snapping it  
> as
> > I wasn't totally sure it would snap the way I intended. The stuff
> > wasn't horribly expensive, but I don't want to wast a lot of  
> material
> > either. Maybe I'll glue this piece I have on and file it down to the
> > right size and yeah, I thought of the router, but of course I don't
> > have a bit for that so the slow road it is for the minute.
> > Thanks again.
> >
> > On Aug 18, 2008, at 7:30 AM, Dale Leavens wrote:
> >
> > > You score the Formica along a straight line usually then just bend
> > > it up to snap it off. The edge is very sharp usually. You should  
> cut
> > > it a little large then when stuck down you trim it down to precise
> > > size. These days people usually use an edge trimming bit on a  
> router
> > > but a file sliding along the edge on a slight angle works equally
> > > well if slower and I find I often finish with a file anyway.
> > >
> > > There is a special hooked knife with a carbide tip which drags  
> along
> > > very nicely and scores the material however the tip of a sharp
> > > utility knife works well enough too.
> > >
> > > Sawing tends to chip and even crack the Formica or Arborite unless
> > > it is well stuck down already and generally works better cutting
> > > from the opposite side.
> > >
> > > Hope this helps.
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Scott Howell
> > > To: [email protected]
> > > Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 5:34 AM
> > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] sharp cutting tool
> > >
> > > Folks, I know this will sound a little crazy, but I'm trying to
> > cut a
> > > piece of material with a utility knife and it just doesn't seem to
> > be
> > > doing the job. Now this is a new blade, but let me explain what  
> I'm
> > > cutting and how I'm cutting it and maybe the how and what are the
> > > problem.
> > >
> > > I purchased a sheet of material I believe it's formica, the same
> > stuff
> > > most counter tops are made from. I need to cut this to fit the end
> > of
> > > the counter top I am using as a desk. The guy at the store said a
> > > utility knife should do the trick. I've made a few passes and then
> > > tried digging in to cut through, but seems the knife first of all
> > > wants to skid around on the surface and just scratch the  
> material. I
> > > then tried a really sharp pair of scissors which did help, but
> > weren't
> > > really sharp enough. Now I realize I could get my Dremmel or even
> > > possibly my jig saw out, but I really was looking for a manual  
> non-
> > > powered tool for such a simple task. So, the question is, do they
> > make
> > > scissors that could be used for cutting material like this or is a
> > > utility knife my best option?
> > >
> > > tnx
> > >
> > > Scott Howell
> > > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >
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> >
> > Scott Howell
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Scott Howell
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