Some tips I have are:
1.  Keep your blade sharp, since a dull blade may kick back.

2.I have found that if I lock my right elbow, which holds the handle of the 
chain saw, a  kick back will not come near me, but will tend to go up.

3. Keep any helpers or other on lookers at least 10 feet away from you.  You 
do not want them to get into your way.

4. Drag your feet to keep from tripping with your saw idling or turned off.

5.  Do not be in a hurry.  Think out every little task before you start to 
cut, and look for possibilities where something can go wrong and you getting 
hurt, take corrective action and continue.

Many people use chain saws every day and do not get hurt.

John
http://WhiteCane.org
http://BlindWoodWorker.com
http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
http://anellos.ws

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Howell" <s.how...@verizon.net>
To: <blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw


> You know all this talk of chainsaws makes me wonder what is the best way 
> to use one.  I realize what makes them dangerous is the fact there is this 
> chain that is buzzing along at a pretty good clip and something could 
> cause it to snap at you. The problem is the bite is quite bad from what I 
> hear. I imagine using the tip of the bar to cut is not a good idea as the 
> saw could flip up or down and take off your nose or leg. grin However, 
> being serious, I assume to prevent as many potential kickback situations, 
> it is best to place the saw so whatever your cutting is as close to the 
> motor as possible. Would that be correct and are there other tips? Is it 
> best to cut so the saw is turned on its side instead of standing vertical? 
> Maybe I should state it in this way. SHould the chain run always be held 
> perpendicular to the work?
> I tried a chainsaw once, but for a very short time since there was a 
> problem with it and I could not resolve the problem. I just took it back 
> and used the handy handsaw. Well I have a tree that will require more than 
> a handsaw. grin
>
> On Apr 6, 2010, at 6:57 PM, John Sherrer wrote:
>
>> I have an Echo 650, a two cyclinder model that does not vibrate. You can 
>> use it all day without your hands numbing out on you. It is two big for 
>> your job unless you have future use.
>> If you are close enough to power, an electric would be ideal. If this is 
>> your only job, or chanin saw use will be rare, buy a cheap one. If you 
>> want a good one, the Shindowa worm gear electric is good.
>>
>> If you live close to North Carolina, I would want to take the wood off 
>> your hands.
>>
>> By the way, I have not had the guts to use my Echo in several years. But 
>> if I had a good enough reason, I would use it.
>>
>> John
>> http://WhiteCane.org
>> http://BlindWoodWorker.com
>> http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
>> http://anellos.ws
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: RJ
>> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>> Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 9:15 PM
>> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
>>
>> If you don't want to use a chain saw, a bucksaw or cross saw does the job 
>> nicely with a little elbow grease. A electric chain saw would work well, 
>> if close to a outlet. A small gas chain saw of 12 inches is easy to 
>> handle.
>> RJ
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: Scott Berry
>> To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
>> Sent: Sunday, April 04, 2010 13:05
>> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] chain saw
>>
>> Hello there,
>>
>> I have some trees which are approximately 12 to 14 feet and 3 inches in
>> diameter. These are wild plumb trees. What type and make of chain saw do
>> you recommend.
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
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