Thanks John, I'll keep this in mind once I get in there and start digging 
around. The fun part will be balancing the monster while I work on it. But you 
know, I think it'll work just perfectly with patience.

On Aug 2, 2010, at 11:10 AM, John Sherrer wrote:

> You may not need to be concerned with the water problem since your ground is 
> hard,. The concrete should fill in with the ground and leave no gaps. If 
> the slope is higher than the pad, you definately will not have a problem.
> I would fill the whole pad with concrete and skip the gravel. The gravel 
> wsaves some of the back breaking work of mixing concrete since it reduces 
> your concrete needs. If the pad is made in such a way that it is always dry 
> you will have mo movement.
> In North Carolina where I live the soil will absorb gravel, so in a few 
> years it will be gone. But if kept dry, it will not happen. But with our 
> hard soil, we have no problems with pouring concrete directly on the clay.
> 
> John
> http://WhiteCane.org
> http://BlindWoodWorker.com
> http://HolyTeaClub.comcom\whitecane
> http://anellos.ws
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Scott Howell" <scottn3...@gmail.com>
> To: <blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:48 AM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
> 
> > Hey this is a really great idea, but let me ask a couple other questions 
> > on the actual digging part here.
> > I think supporting the unit will not be to difficult, but digging under 
> > the unit may be more of a challenge. I can probably lift it to some degree 
> > without breaking lines and the like.
> > Now I will have to start digging a couple of feet in front of the unit in 
> > order to dig under. Now how deep should I dig my hole? If the pad would be 
> > 3 to 4 inches, I assume another two for gravel? Since this is on a slope, 
> > I will need to ensure the ground is level of course, but to help avoid as 
> > much as possible with the ground eroding over time, should I do anything 
> > else? I am thinking that the ground slopes sharply right by the heat pump 
> > and I think the idea is water etc. runs under the unit and on down the 
> > hill. I wonder if building that up and trying to direct the water to run 
> > elsewhere would help. I know this is hard to describe, but all thoughts 
> > appreciated.
> >
> > On Aug 2, 2010, at 5:33 AM, Bob Kennedy wrote:
> >
> >> They usually don't pour a pad when they install a new unit. Most units 
> >> come
> >> with a pad as a part of shipping, or the contractor brings one with him.
> >>
> >> I've had to replace pads before, and didn't want to disconnect the lines 
> >> to
> >> the house. To do this, you have to rig up a temporary support for the 
> >> unit.
> >>
> >> I used a couple patio blocks,the 16 by 8 by 2 inch kind, and once they 
> >> were
> >> higher than the current pad, I spanned the pad with a couple 2 by 6's.
> >>
> >> Just be careful lifting the unit at funny angles.
> >>
> >> It may be a little easier to put the wood under the unit first and then
> >> stack the blocks. You can use a 2 by something as a pry bar to get one 
> >> end
> >> at a time up enough to fit the last block under the 2 by 6.
> >>
> >> Once you have everything clear of the faulty pad, you have to remove the
> >> pad. This may mean you have to do a little landscaping to make a path out
> >> for it.
> >>
> >> Finally you will have to make a new pad.
> >>
> >> With space being tight like it will be, screw a 3 sided form together and
> >> then slide it under the 2 by 6's. Screw it together so you can take it
> >> apart. I'd spread some gravel on the ground and then mix as much concrete
> >> as you need to make the new pad 3 or 4 inches thick. As the form fills 
> >> up,
> >> you can add the final 2 by 4 across the front to keep the concrete from
> >> falling out. Let it dry for a couple days and take the form apart.
> >> Finally, lower the unit on to its new home and you should be good for 
> >> longer
> >> than the unit will last.
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >> From: "Scott Howell" <scottn3...@gmail.com>
> >> To: <blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com>
> >> Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 5:16 AM
> >> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
> >>
> >> > Hey Alan,
> >> >
> >> > I agree the job is worth doing right the first time because I sure do 
> >> > not
> >> > want to come back and do it again. If I leave it where it is, I will 
> >> > have
> >> > to do something to permanently fix the situation. THe pad is this 
> >> > plastic
> >> > thing the unit sits on. I guess they do not poor concrete pads any 
> >> > longer.
> >> >
> >> > On Aug 1, 2010, at 8:48 PM, Alan Paganelli wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> The part about protecting it as much as possible is very true. It 
> >> >> depends
> >> >> on the shape of the pad. If it's full of cracks etc, you might be 
> >> >> better
> >> >> off just to move it into an area where it is better protected and just
> >> >> get a
> >> >> new pad and have it fully supported. The nice part about that is you
> >> >> probably only need to do it once. If it's worth doing, it's worth 
> >> >> doing
> >> >> the
> >> >> right way.
> >> >>
> >> >> Alan
> >> >>
> >> >> Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
> >> >> There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
> >> >> the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!
> >> >>
> >> >> The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
> >> >> available upon request.
> >> >>
> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >> >> From: "Scott Howell" <scottn3...@gmail.com>
> >> >> To: <blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com>
> >> >> Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 4:21 PM
> >> >> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
> >> >>
> >> >> > Hi folks,
> >> >> >
> >> >> > Well I am going to finally get around to doing something about my 
> >> >> > heat
> >> >> > pump. THe one suggestion someone gave was to pull the unit off the 
> >> >> > pad,
> >> >> > remove the existing pad, put some pipes in the ground with concrete,
> >> >> > and
> >> >> > set the pad on the pipes. THis would help keep the unit level. Of
> >> >> > course
> >> >> > this requires the unit be pumped down and I would have to have a
> >> >> > contractor come out and remove and reinstall the unit.
> >> >> > I am trying to determine if there is any other way of doing this 
> >> >> > beyond
> >> >> > moving the unit around to the side of the house. THe only issue 
> >> >> > there
> >> >> > is
> >> >> > it would be exposed to the sun all year round, which may not matter,
> >> >> > but
> >> >> > the HVAC contractor that fixed it recently stated in so many words 
> >> >> > it
> >> >> > is
> >> >> > better to protect it from the sun if possible.
> >> >> > The problem I am dealing with is the yard slopes and the ground is
> >> >> > slowly
> >> >> > eroding and causing the unit to become off balance. I doubt it would 
> >> >> > be
> >> >> > easy to dig under the pad while the unit is sitting on it and jack 
> >> >> > it
> >> >> > up
> >> >> > enough to really get under there and build up the ground. However,
> >> >> > perhaps
> >> >> > it is possible and any thoughts appreciated.
> >> >> >
> >> >> > THanks,
> >> >> >
> >> >> > ------------------------------------
> >> >> >
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> >> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > ------------------------------------
> >> >
> >> > Send any questions regarding list management to:
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> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
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> >
> >
> 
> 



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