How the "Great Satan" Became Just Great

http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,1101021111-386942,00.html

One of the hottest shops in Tehran these days sits on a treelined street in
the fashionable district of Elahieh. Its name is too risque, by local
standards, to be displayed on the storefront. Instead, gilt letters spell it
out on a dusky rose wall inside: Victoria's Secret. Iranian women flock here
to rapturously fawn over delicate silk negligees, lace underwear and other
fripperies that are available nowhere else in the Islamic Republic. While
the franchise is fake, the goods are authentic. So the shop offers Iranian
women a twofold illicitness: sexy lingerie that flagrantly violates Islamic
notions of modesty, plus a made in the u.s.a. label. "What kind of underwear
this is I don't know," says a bemused waiter at the coffee shop next door,
as he watches young women stream past.
Victoria's Secret Tehran is just the raciest manifestation of the growing
popularity of American products in Iran. While elsewhere in the Middle East
consumers are boycotting American goods to protest U.S. foreign policy,
Iranians can't get enough of them. Coca-Cola's exports to Iran have
increased nearly threefold this year. Toy stores are struggling to keep up
with the growing demand for Barbie dolls.

Not even President George W. Bush's branding of Iran as part of an "axis of
evil" has cooled Iranians' ardor for U.S. products. Restive young people,
tired of the constrained social life prescribed in Iran, associate
brand-name icons of American culture with the freedoms they're denied. "The
labels remind them of the lifestyle they crave and see on mtv," says Mina
Bahrami, a mother of two teenagers. Iranians embrace products of the "Great
Satan" as one small way to register their discontent with the religious
conservatives who control their country. "Why do I only drink Coke?" asks
Goudarz Amini, 13. "Because if it's not from here, it represents something
better."

Elsewhere in the region, the Arab boycott of U.S. goods - a protest against
Washington's support for Israel in its conflict with the Palestinians - has
gathered enough momentum so that sales at fast-food chains like McDonald's
and KFC have fallen precipitously. But Iranians, who are Persians, not
Arabs, are less emotionally connected to the plight of the Arab
Palestinians. As hostility toward the U.S. grows throughout the Arab world,
the majority of Iranians remain remarkably pro-American. According to a
recent poll, 65% feel Iran should re-establish ties with the U.S.

Hard-liners complain that Iranians are sullying themselves with U.S. soft
drinks and "American sandwiches," as a conservative paper disdainfully
referred to hamburgers. In a quest to provide a homegrown alternative to
Barbie, the government launched Dara and Sara dolls, clothed modestly in
traditional garb. The dolls proved so unpopular that toy stores in Tehran
don't bother to carry them anymore, though the pink boxes of authentic
Barbies still fly off the shelves.

While Islamic Barbie failed, Iranian fast-food outlets modeled on American
burger chains are succeeding. At Tehran's Super Star, which imitates the
American franchise Carl's Jr., smiling employees wear polo shirts
monogrammed with the Carl's Jr. star, thank you is printed on the swinging
door of the trash can, and a comments box solicits complaints. The only
design element that would be out of place in an authentic branch is the
discreet plaque reminding customers to please respect islamic morals. When
rumor spread that Super Star procured its buns from an American burger
franchise in the Persian Gulf, the crowds only grew. "We're totally
overwhelmed," says a manager. "Next we're going to open a KFC like Tehran
has never seen."



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