<http://www.nineoclock.ro/index.php?page=detalii&categorie=culture&id=200703
01-504215> Caru cu bere

 

As the legend goes the name of the pub was given when a cart of beer casks,
coming from Bragadiru, stopped before the bar.

 

published in issue 3883 page 8 at 2007-03-02

 

Recently "Caru cu bere" reopened its gates, after the building underwent
massive repair works for quite a long period. Today it is part of the City
Grill network, and restoration investments amounted to EUR 1.5 M, with the
front part expected to swallow another half a million. But efforts have
yielded fruit: paintings on the walls and ceiling and the gilded decorations
look just as they did 100 years ago, tables were reconditioned, along with
the entire lot of oak wood furniture. Superb stained-glass windows filter
the light, and chandeliers regained their beauty. Downstairs, in the cellar,
there is a genuine museum displaying beer steins and pints from various
periods.

As the Peace treaty was being signed in Berlin in 1878, a certain Ioan
Cabasan bought a shabby house behind Zlatari Inn, on Stavropoleos lane. At
the time, much of the Constantin Voda Inn, which used to be there, had been
demolished, so that, since 1861, before the house there was a nice large
open area, opening onto the Stavropoleos and St. Ioan cel Mare inns. To the
south, imposingly towering over the slums, was Nicolae Brancoveanu's palace,
from the gates of which the Mogosoaia Bridge started.

For an entrepreneur, this open place was interesting enough, although the
place was a dump. But soon more substantial incentives were to appear, such
as the construction in the area of a wood panel circus named "Walhala,"
alternatively used by German artists - heavy beer drinkers - and by
politicians.

The construction of a tavern, "La pisica neagra" and of a sweetshop,
"Baltador," both located in the Zlatari Inn wing that opened onto
Stavropoleos, will rapidly turn the area into a place with promising
commercial potential. But another event was decisive. In the same year,
1878, a merchant from Bacau named Dumitru Marinescu was about to start the
construction, in the neighbourhood, of a brewery and spirits workshop, which
will be finished in 1899 and will be known as the Bragadiru brewery. The
owner was already looking for clients to sign sale-purchase contracts, and
among them, among the very first perhaps, was Cabasan. Under circumstances
so favourable to trade, the latter plucked up courage and went into
business. On May Day in 1879, he opened a beer house in the building on
Stavropoleos Lane, the second in Bucharest at the time, after the pub opened
next to the former office of the "Justice-Brotherhood" secret society on
Jignita lane. And he named it "La Caru cu bere" (The beer cart). The legend
has it that the name of the pub came when the first cart of beer casks,
coming from Dumitru Marinescu's new brewery stopped before the bar.
Actually, the beer had been brought from Bragadiru village, where
entrepreneur D. Marinescu had put together a makeshift beer refinery.

The fact is that this name, with a slightly out-of-date meaning and sound,
was to share with the Capsa brothers' company a celebrity untouched by the
passage of time. Nota bene: Cabasan was never a "supplier of the Crown!"
Moreover, his name is mentioned in no anecdote or memoirs related to "Caru
cu bere." Every now and then, his name is mentioned in the newspapers of the
time, but only in advertisements. It vanishes from almanacs around 1886, and
after several years of absence the company is once again quoted, this time
with new owners: Mircea brothers. A new era began. The new owners
commissioned the plans for the reconstruction and redecoration of the pub to
Austrian architect Siegfrid Kofezinsky. Radical reconstruction and
improvement works begin in 1888 - the date is mentioned in several memoirs
works - and were completed, with difficulties, only in 1924. The old, modest
building was demolished completely, then the central building was erected,
along with the cellar, the kitchen and the front part, in neo-Gothic style.

The interior is decorated in a refined combination of styles, with the
Byzantine one represented by balconies and banisters, harmoniously combined
with the gilded frescoes and the stained-glass windows in the Bavarian
academic style. A statue of old Ghita the cellarman holding a lamp in his
hand was added later at the end of the stairs, next to the balcony, and it
affects nothing of the spectacular interior. The pub features were also
changed, and starting 1902 it will be both a beer house and a restaurant,
although ads tried to reassure the old customers that "special beer from the
Bragadiru brewery is served all days and evenings, until after the late
night shows." Brothers Nicolae, Ignat and Victor Mircea, born in Cata
village near Medias, had new ideas, French rather than German. As far as the
menu was concerned, customers from Transilvania, the most numerous over the
years, found it similar to the one offered in the German taverns at home.
Quite popular were the Praguer sausages with horse radish, frankfurters,
boeuf salad, mashed peas and the always present "small bottle" of "Lacrima
Cristi" wine, which old Ghita the cellarman took care of for over one
quarter of a century, in the pub cellar. Beer drinkers were offered draught
beer directly from the cask. The Mircea brothers also imported from across
the mountains the tidiness-"mama Zangor," the only woman employed in the
pub, was in charge with this-and the attention paid to apprentices, waiters
and cooks, who had several rooms to rest in.

These were notable differences from the other pubs in the Capital, which
made "Caru cu bere" unique and ensured its unrivalled fame. Before the WW1
outbreak, one of the brothers, Victor, abandoned the family business and set
up his own, competing beer house, specially for officers, under the new
Military Palace inaugurated in 1912. Ads indicate that he took full
advantage of the fame gained in "Caru cu bere," and he named his pub "the
Victor Mircea beer house." An enterprising spirit, he was also the one who
took over the management of the restaurant inside the Gara de Nord (railway
station). Thus, the Stavropoleos pub was left with two owners only. Soon,
Ignat was also to try to start his own business. With his brother Nicolae's
support and advice, he bought a tavern and turned it, although at high
costs, into a beer house named "Ignat Mircea." He too tried to take
advantage of the fame that "Caru cu bere" had secured for the Mircea family.
But he failed, and in 1929 the Romanian-British bank declared him bankrupt.
And he didn't go down by himself. As he had guaranteed his brother's credit
and the bank threatened to take away his pub, Nicolae made a desperate move
and committed suicide, falling from the second floor above the cellar, as we
learn from the newspapers of the time. Bucharest locals decried the
misfortune, but equally honest was their concern with the future of the
famous pub. Times were testing. And still, in those difficult times, the
company and the beer house survived. Unfortunately, the ads make no
reference to the new owner's name, the article published by 'Magazin
Istoric', reads.

The pub served as mess for the German army

Apparently, the new owner did not interfere with the "house customs," which
explains the popularity of the beer house among the German officers who
chose the place as their mess between 1942 and 1944, just as it had happened
in WW1. But then came the occupation by the barbaric Red Army and the
abusive seizing of the pub, in 1948-1949 (the so-called "nationalisation").
The Russian officers, bothered by the "German paintings," ordered that they
be covered in red paint, so that everybody would know who the new master
was, and that decorations be covered in white paint. Whether communist or
apolitical, Bucharesters did not see the mutilation of the old beer house
with a friendly eye, and shortly after Stalin's death, right in 1953, works
are carried out to remove the red paint.

But under the new "people's" ownership, the "bourgeois" tradition loses its
appeal: the horse radish Praguers are replaced with the "popular" Olt
sausages, the mashed peas are taken out of the menu and so on. "Caru cu
bere" was doomed to turn into a regular Socialist beer house. But clients
were still numerous, and most of the times "ennobled" by artists. The
"decadence" lasted until 1986, when large-scale restoration works started,
coordinated by painter Nicolae Gheorghe, who restored not only its past
elegance, but also its lost dignity, at the expense of the "proletarian"
clients.

 

by  <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Nine oClock

 

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