Dressel’s Chocolate Fudge Whipped Cream Cake

from 
http://lostrecipesfound.com/recipe/dressels-chocolate-fudge-whipped-cream-cake/


Dressel’s Bakery represented multiple pinnacles of achievement: the 
first Chicago bakery to make a million dollars, the first to master the 
art of whipped cream layer cakes, and the first to make a quality frozen 
cake that at the company’s peak sold in 32 states.

My image

There are no clues that the breezy, grass-covered, empty lot at 66^th 
and Ashland was once the master plant of Chicago’s most famous bakery, 
or, that the red brick storefront at 33^rd and Wallace in Bridgeport was 
its first location. But it’s true. Although gone without a trace, 
Dressel’s Bakery was for more than 60 years the maker of Chicago’s most 
beloved special-occasion treat: the Dressel’s Chocolate Fudge Whipped 
Cream Cake. Moist layers of chocolate fudge cake stacked around dreamy 
whipped cream with light chocolate buttercream slathered over all and a 
crushed-nut garnish, Dressel’s signature cake was Chicago’s go-to for 
birthdays, anniversaries, christenings and graduation parties.  In fact, 
throughout the company’s history the Chocolate Fudge Whipped Cream cake 
outsold all other Dressel’s cakes at a ratio of 60% chocolate fudge, to 
40% everything else.

The story of that cake is the story of a hard-working immigrant family, 
which brought the various talents of three brothers and generations of 
relatives and friends together. First farmers in Barrington, (after 
coming to America from Germany in the early 1900s,) the two older 
Dressel brothers—Joe & Bill—were initiated into baking by their uncle 
Lorenz Nock who operated a bakery in Bridgeport at 33^rd & Wallace.  Joe 
& Bill bought the business in 1913—while they were still teens–and 
younger brother Herman pretty much grew up there, working full-time in 
the bakery by the time he was 14, and becoming a partner in the business 
in 1923.

To Joe & Bill’s sales-, production- and people-skills, Herman—who was in 
charge of cakes–added his friendly nature, innovator’s spark and 
artistic skills, proposing the idea of a whipped cream cake in the early 
’20s. It was a smash hit from the start. By 1929, it took two policemen 
to handle the Saturday crowds lined up down the sidewalk and Dressel’s 
was selling $2,000 to $3,000 worth of the cakes in a day, priced at 
60-cents, 75-cents and $1.00.  The volume didn’t wane, building to 
10,000 cakes a week by the ‘40s, with ten phone lines to take orders. To 
handle that kind of demand, the Dressel’s started experimenting with 
freezing the layers of the cakes well before WWII.

Figuring out how to formulate the cake so that thawed, it would remain 
moist and light, took innovation.  First, Dressel’s cut no corners on 
quality. In-the-shell eggs all came from one farm, butter from one 
supplier, and the cream—the heart of the cake—was brought in from 
dairies and pasteurized on site.   Understanding the importance of that 
cream layer, Herman Dressel studied breeds of cow and the grasses they 
were fed, in order to hone in on the cream he preferred (from Holsteins 
cows Wisconsin.) As well, Dressel used the highest-butterfat content 
cream and then actually /added butter to the cream/ in a proprietary 
reverse process he developed that was only used at Dressel’s.

Other early innovations included (during the very early years) 
incorporating very-finely-crushed carrot pulp into the fudge cake layers 
for greater moisture retention. As well, cake layers were made with oil, 
rather than butter, so that when chilled, the layers would not be as 
rigid, and would melt-in-the-mouth more easily.  The buttercream was 
whipped with a percentage of vegetable shortening which volume-ized 
better for a lighter mouth feel than pure-butter buttercream. And the 
uber-buttery whipped cream was stabilized (given more firmness) with the 
addition of agar-agar, a vegetable-based gelatin.  (Most of these 
processes were used until sometime after American Bakeries bought the 
company in 1963.)

While Dressel’s cake was a production cake—no home baker can perfectly 
emulate Dressel’s techniques —Lost Recipes Found worked with members of 
the Dressel’s family (Herman’s sons Dan and Allan; and Herman’s 
brother-in-law Marty Schell, who worked in cake production for years) to 
create a home-cook version of the Dressel’s Chocolate Fudge Whipped 
Cream cake to which the Dressel’s have given their approval. Most 
important? Dan Dressel stresses that each layer of cake and whipped 
cream must be exactly the same thickness. As well, the buttercream must 
not be too thick. “My dad worked very hard to ensure that when you took 
a bite of the cake, the flavors and textures were perfectly balanced,” 
says Dressel.

To help you in making the cake, we’ve posted a step-by-step how-to video 
featuring Heidi Hedeker, a pastry chef instructor at Kendall College. 
Plus, a mini documentary of the Dressel’s cake story. And please, if you 
have your own memories or stories to share about Dressel’s, post a 
comment in the comment box below.

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Makes 2, 9-inch layers; one whipped cream cake


        Cake Ingredients

  * 2 cups sugar
  * 3 large eggs
  * 1 1/4 cup vegetable oil
  * 4 tsp vanilla
  * 1 1/3 cups boiling water
  * 1/2 cup Hershey’s Special Dark cocoa powder
  * 1 1/2 tsp baking soda
  * 3/4 tsp salt
  * 1 1/3 cups cake flour
  * 1 cup all purpose flour
  * 1 cup toasted & ground mixed walnuts & pecans for sides of finished cake

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        Light Chocolate Buttercream Ingredients

  * 2 cups room temperature unsalted butter
  * 1/2 cup vegetable shortening
  * 4 cups powdered sugar
  * 2 tsp vanilla
  * 2 1/2 Tbsp vegetable oil
  * 4 Tbsp Dutch-process cocoa powder

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        Whipped Cream Ingredients

  * 1 cup water
  * 1/2 tspagar agar
    <http://wholefoodsmarket.com/recipes/guides/seaveggies.php>
  * 3 cups Kilgus Farmstead
    <http://www.kilgusfarmstead.com/where-to-buy/> or other
    non-homogenized heavy cream (closest approximation to what Dressel’s
    used)
  * 1/2 cup powdered sugar
  * 1 tsp vanilla

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        Instructions

Preheat oven to 350. Prepare two, 9-inch baking pans by greasing them 
and lining them with parchment paper circles. Also at this point: Set 
out the two cups of unsalted butter for your buttercream on your counter 
to bring it to room temperature (pliable, but not// soft)  for making 
your frosting later.

In large mixing bowl, beat sugar and eggs 3 minutes until fluffy and 
creamy. Blend in oil and vanilla and beat two minutes more. Combine 
boiling water and cocoa powder, stir to dissolve, mix in soda and salt. 
Pour into batter and incorporate. Add flour and mix until blended and 
smooth. Pour into prepared pans and tap pans to release bubbles. Bake at 
350 for 35 to 40 minutes until cake springs back when touched. Remove 
from oven; let rest in pans for five minutes. Turn onto racks. Let cakes 
cool completely.

While cake is baking, make whipped cream. Place 1 cup water in saucepan 
with 1/2 tsp  agar agar. Heat to boiling; boil 4 1/2 minutes. Let 
solution cool just until you can immerse your finger in it–still quite 
warm and liquid–this takes about 3 to 3 1/2 minutes.  While you’re 
waiting, combine 3 cups of  cream with 1/2 cup powdered sugar and 1 tsp 
vanilla. Turn mixer to low speed. Before cream reaches soft peak stage, 
add 3 Tbsp of the warm liquid agar/water solution to cream all at once 
(there should be at least 2 1/2 to 3 tablespoons of this solution left 
after boiling) and whip until consistency firms up. Note: The whipped 
cream will not be super firm–just firmer than typical whipped cream.

Make your light chocolate buttercream. Whip two cups of room temperature 
unsalted butter with 1/2 cup of vegetable shortening and 4 cups powdered 
sugar at low speed for 8 to 10 minutes until the mixture is fluffy. Add 
two tsp vanilla. Whip again just to incorporate. Mix together 2 1/2 Tbsp 
oil with 4 Tbsp Dutch process cocoa powder. Whisk into buttercream until 
evenly distributed.

Assemble cake: Trim the “dome” off the top of each fudge layer to ensure 
each cake layer is exactly level and of the same thickness. (Note: if 
you are allergic to nuts, crumble this trim into crumbs and place on a 
parchment-lined baking sheet. Toast crumbs  in the oven at 300 degrees 
until crispy. Crush these crumbs fine and reserve.) Place first fudge 
layer on a cake liner on a footed cake stand. Carefully pipe 1-inch of 
buttercream around the rim of the fudge layer, so you now have a 
standing lip of buttercream on the cake layer. Fill this with 1-inch 
tall whipped cream. Add several more spoons of whipped cream onto the 
center. Layer the second fudge layer of cake over the whipped cream 
layer. Using an offset spatula, carefully seal the outside edge of the 
cake (sealing whipped cream in) with buttercream, using a little more 
buttercream if needed.  Frost top of cake with buttercream. Frost sides 
of cake with buttercream. Apply crushed nuts (toasted walnut and pecan) 
to sides of the cake. (Or, if allergic to nuts, apply the toasted cake 
crumbs to the sides of the cake.) Freeze the cake, which will ensure 
that the whipped cream layer and buttercream will firm up. Set cake out 
1/2 hour to 45 minutes before serving to soften.

-- 



*Ginny Butterfield
Cranberry Twp, PA


*


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