Hi Richard, I bought these batteries, (Same as originally purchased) from Bristol Batteries, in Bristol. I had a good deal here, should anyone want replacement batteries,I suggest they get a price off them. Because I bought six, the proprietor gave me maximum discount. They actually cost me £49.07ea plus a £16.00 carriage charge to Tring, Bucks.
To answer your question, I buy "Dual Purpose" lead acid, because althugh there are less plates in each cell, the plates are thicker and will withstand a heavier drain (Discharge) without buckling or damage. I have the "Stirling PDAR (The expensive one). I have decided to remove the unit and send it back to the manufacturer, in Worcester, for a check and their report. The unit was originally fitted by a qualified electrician, (Too complicated for me to risk blowing an expensive piece of kit!) It has been working quite satisfactory for about 3 years up to a few weeks ago. I am quite certain that the "Fly Lead" to the alternator is not trapped within the new alternator. An auto electrician fitted it for me and the old Stator is being sent to the rewind specialists. Then I will have a spare alternator, should ever I need one. Incidently, the failure of the "Large" domestic alternator also put the small (45amp x 12 volt)alternator out for the engine battery charging. This failed too! whist the large one was connected. They are on totally seperate systems and this should not have happened. As a precaution, apart from being very dirty (And full of cats hair inside) there was nothing wrong with the 12-volt alternator. It has been refitted and put back into service. All OK. I will let you know what Stirling say about their equipment. In the meantime I am charging "normally" with the 24 volt one and not overdriving it. I will endeavour to fit an alternator overgeating sensor. This should save a "Burn-Out" of the stator and probaly give me a warning signal from the "Stirling" perhaps? Thanks for the information Richard. Regards. ~Allan~ --- In [email protected], Electricky Dicky <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > On Sun, 08 Jun 2008 08:15:06 -0000, "Allan Cazaly" > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > >It would appear that my unit has become faulty. > >My 24-volt x 100amp alternator recently failed. The Stator was well > >and truly cooked!. > > > >I have replaced the altenator (Same make and model) > >I had the "Fly Lead" fitted to the new unit for the "Stirling. > > > >I fitted the new alternator and made all the correct connections, > >including the "Stirling" ones, ex cept that I did not connect > >the "Fly Lead" from the alternator. > > > >I ran the engine and the new alternator satyed cool to the touch. > >Maximum charging voltage reading 27.8 volts. (No ammeter fitted) > > > >I the connected the "Fly Lead" and repeated the above. > >Within 10-minutes the alternator was so hot, it would have burnt my > >fingers. I immediately stopped the engine, hoping I had no danaged > >the shellac on the Stator windings. Maximum charging voltage reading > >29.8 volts. > > > >The "Stirling" unit showed all the correct LED's. > > > >**** Has anyone experienced similar problems? > >**** Has anyone comment or suggestions to make pleae? > >**** A little knowledge can be dangerous and/or costly! > > It is possible that the Sterling output transistor is blown short. > Which type of Unit do you have? PDAR or DAC12 > If the PDAR did you connect the Alternator temperature sensor? > > I suggest you check the the wire connected to the the Alternator brush > pack is not trapped somewhere (between the Alternator and the > controller) and shorting to ground. > > > >I have just replaced 6 dual purpose 110amp/h x 12-volt batteries as > >the old ones failed after 4 years service. > You did well then as a liveaboard. Why do you buy "Dual Purpose"? > > -- > Richard >
