|
Yup, like Clyde says. The prior
owner replaced the keel bolts and used the windowing method on my boat,
Bijou
See http://www.blumhorst.com/catalina27/images/keel_factory_drawings/ for
details on how the factory recommends either the windowing method and lag
bolt method be done.
Factory recommendations for replacing
wood in the keel stubby and repairing a "smile" are there too.
As for cost and difficulty: I've seen
similar repairs being done many, many times at Svendsen's Boatyard and at
Berkeley Marina. The advantage to the windowing method is that you
can replace them easily/cheaply the next time around (12 -15 years is
recommended by authorities such as Don Casey). And as Phil pointed out, you drill down only about 4-6
inches, (not 4 feet!), so it's probably less time
spent drilling than installing 18-inch-long lag screws.
It doesn't take long to drill the windows
sideways into the keel from the outside.
If the yard is accustomed to
doing the job, and they're got the right equipment (and the boat is
out of the water for other work), it probably doesn't cost any more to window
than to install lag bolts. If you're doing the repair yourself or the boat
is staying in the water, lagbolts are probably the most cost effectivce and
easiest way to go.
My boat was out of the water at the time the
repairs were done. At the same time, the yard
IRRC, the labor cost was $5000 for
60 hours of labor. The material costs were about $1000.
(Work was done in 2000) That's not a bad price for that much
labor done at the yard -- if you plan on keeping the boat a decade or
more. It was a good deal for me when I bought the boat with
that work already done.
As most of you folks know, stainless steel
DOES rust when there's no oxygen available. Thenhidden crevice
corrosion occurs. (It's similar to crevice corrosion like you find on
stays and shrouds where the wire rope goes into a swaged fitting.)
If you're lucky, the keel bolts will neverr rust out, but if the boat runs
aground and water gets in there between the hull and the keel, where oxygen
can't get in, you will need to replace them a second time.
You don't need to remove the keel from the
boat to window-in new bolts. The only reason I can think of to remove a
keel (off the top of my head) would be to repair a badly damaged hull properly,
such as might be necessary after a grounding.
Fair winds, Judy B -----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 18, 2006 3:55 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: catalina27-talk: Doing the Keel right and other issues. Someone out here in the Bay Area did that. Yard drilled holes
horizontal through keel then drilled down through bilge with stainless
rod. Secured washers, nuts on bottom, filled in holes. Was pretty
expensive if I remember right. Another yard tried to take the keel
of a C27. Cut off keel bolts in bilge, bounced it up and down in
sling, took crow bar, sledge hammer, etc and still had one real difficult
time getting it off. Said they would never do it again.
Clyde Thorington
ex C27 now C30
ILEAN2
San Jose, CA
|
- RE: catalina27-talk: Doing the Keel right and oth... Judith Blumhorst, DC
- Re: catalina27-talk: Doing the Keel right an... BobDeurer
- catalina27-talk: Re: Doing the Keel rig... mcewenjv
- RE: catalina27-talk: Doing the Keel righ... Judith Blumhorst, DC
- RE: catalina27-talk: Doing the Keel righ... Judith Blumhorst, DC
- Re: catalina27-talk: Doing the Keel right an... TTagg65796
- Re: catalina27-talk: Doing the Keel right an... debbiegillis
- catalina27-talk: Vent Hose Jim & Micki Reinardy
- Re: catalina27-talk: Vent Hose Ralph E. Ahseln
- RE: catalina27-talk: Vent Hose Jim & Micki Reinardy

