Very bad things can happen with a bilge pump check valve. There have been some sad stories in both the Catalina Mainsheet magazine and various threads on the various C27 e-mail groups.
So, if you are using something similar to a rule 2000, like I have: Rule had the following FAQ before their web site was changed. Q: Can I install a check valve on the discharge of my bilge pump to keep water from running back through the pump? A: No. A check valve should NOT be installed in the discharge line. As submersible pumps create very little discharge pressure, they may not be able to overcome the resistance or weight of the column of water or weight of the check valve flapper or poppet itself. The pump may therefore have an airlocked condition. My 1985 routes the bilge pump line from the stern through hull through the rear lazarette floor to a strap as high as possible in the rear lazarette, back through the floor, and then to the bilge pump. This raised line keeps water from siphoning back through. BTY, Lake Travis is closed for recreational boating today because of the flooding conditions here in central Texas. I hope that they open it back up for the weekend! John 1985 C27TR 5956 Cool Change Lake Travis, Austin, TX Joe McCary wrote: > Well, I have a Honda 9.9 and have sailed nearly every weekend this > spring/summer and several times during the week. I have used about 3 > gallons. But I suppose that doesn’t answer your question. I suspect > that I have motored about 30+ miles. But, the better question would be > at what speed? I have pushed the motor at different speeds from 3Kn to > 6.3Kn. I would warn you, when I first pushed the motor at the high > speed my auto bilge pump siphoned water INTO the cabin. I have since > added a check valve (about $5 at West marine) and have not had that > “experience” again.
