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I did not see you mention anywhere about the type of battery you have or
how old it is. Perhaps if you took out the old one, measured the space
available for a new one, you might be able to put a new one in with double
the cold cranking amps. An old battery can act just like you describe when
they get too hot.
I just bought an AC Delco mini hi torque starter for $100 on Ebay and the
guy at the NAPA store showed me one almost identical with a lifetime
warrenty also for $100. Also, a lot of places advertize a one wire
conversion kit for the older alternators that brings them up to about 90
amp output. I haven't had to do this yet so not sure about the cost,
reliablity, etc. Maybe someone on the list knows?
BTW, I used to own a Ford that did the same thing. Everytime, it was the
starter. I replaced over 10 rebuilt starters on warrenty and the parts
jobber kept complaining my engine was at fault. Finally, I pulled the
starter and checked the sleeve bearing clearances and found the "nose"
bearing was at fault. When it got hot, it was too tight. Took my father's
handy reamer set and removed a couple thousands and never had to replace
the starter again. Also, it was the Ford I ever owned!
Ron
At 04:50 PM 07/15/2001 -0700, you wrote:
>
>Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List
>------------------------------------------------------------
>
>I'm just curious what kind of battery/alternator setup you guys are running.
>Particularly those of you with stereo systems and a/c. I've been having
>problems with my car not starting in the summer heat. Last summer I put a
>F*&d solenoid in and it helped, but hasn't cured my problems. If I go
>across town about 30-40 miles or so while using the a/c (and/or stereo), let
>the car sit for about 10-15 minutes while I run into the store and then try
>to leave, it won't start. At this point, I have two options. If I wait for
>30-45 minutes and let the car cool down, it'll (barely) start again and I
>can go back home (forget about stopping anywhere else, or I have to go
>through the same thing all over again). The 2nd option is to have someone
>jump start my car, which allows the car to start up instantly with no
>problems.
>
>After getting very annoyed by this, I've noticed that if I go across town
>without the a/c on, shut off the car, come back in 10-15 min., and start the
>car it'll start up (again barely, but at least it starts).
>
>Here are some other things I've noticed. When I start the car, the
>voltmeter gauge reads approx. 14 volts. When I turn the a/c on, it drops to
>just above 12 volts. Stereo isn't hooked right now since it'd only make
>matters worse. When I have the a/c on at night with the headlights, the
>voltage drops to around 10 while at idle. When I accelerate again it will
>go back to 12 volts.
>
>I can't afford to replace everything ie: mini starter, dual battery,
>alternator, etc., so I was thinking of just getting a 2nd battery so that I
>could jump start myself when I needed to since that always solves starting
>problems when someone else jump starts my car. Then I thought, well, why
>not make it easier and just add a dual battery setup, so I can just flip a
>switch and use the 2nd battery. But the more I thought about it, I'd
>probably need a higher power alternator to charge dual batteries. SO, I
>think I'm going to splurge and go for a high power alternator and see if
>that will help me keep the battery I've got, charged.
>
>Does this sound logical to you guys? What are some good high power
>alternators? I was looking Mr. Amp 130 amp. alternators which are on sale
>right now for $258 instead of the normal $285. Any Mr. Amp horror stories?
>Are there any other brands you'd suggest? Thanks for the input.
>
>Forgot to mention, I'm running an alternator now that one of my 'hotrod'
>friends used in his 58 Belair. It's a newer style alternator from a 90's
>Cadillac. It's got the internal style regulator.
>
>Rodney.
>71 Chevelle
>Phoenix, AZ
>
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