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Gee whiz.
Nobody?
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2002 11:03
PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] A little
help, please...
Update:
Got tbe #8 cylinder
to respond to removal of the plug wire. In case anyone's interested, I
had relocated the PCV to a manifold vacuum source shared by the #8 runner
- which killed the fuel signal.
Also swapped intakes,
adjusted valves, replaced points, cap, rotor, coil, plugs, wires, vacuum
advance, and probably some things I'm forgetting. She runs significantly
better after repeated attempts at tuning, but still not quite right.
Still have some intermittent missing at idle and hesitation/bog (and the
occasional backfire thru carb) at aggressive acceleration. Closing the
choke blade part way eliminates the bog condition.
Oh, and there's this
noise under load that's driving me nuts, too. It's hard to describe -
sort of a whine that comes and goes as you take your foot on and off the
gas. I don't know where it's coming from, and as far as I can tell, it
only happens when the car is moving.
Some of the relvant
specs:
"Mild" 327 (I don't
have specifics on cam, pistons, etc.) w/ Goodwrench 350
heads
Edelbrock 750 CFM
Quadrajet (#1901) w/ .069 main jet
Edelbrock Performer
RPM (#7104)
Stock points
ignition
12* static + 8*
full-time vacuum advance = 20* initial advance
31*
dwell
Splitfire SF2E plugs,
gapped to .035 (Note that this is not the heat range recommended by
Splitfire)
Compression readings
are ~140, 142, 145, 140, 150, 150, ~148, ~148 on numbers 1, 3, 5, 7,
2, 4, 6, 8, respectively
Steady vacuum at idle
except when missing / surging (variation of ~.5 inches)
I could use some help
here, gang. Running out of ideas.
Thanks,
Bill
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 9:46
AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] A little
help, please...
Thanks,
Don.
Well, let's
see. What do you want to know? I'm in Gilbert, AZ. I don't
have a lot of mechanical experience / background - I've done a lot of the
typical maintenance-type things, etc., but I still get intimidated by the
internals. I've got the fever though, and the only way I know to get
over these things is to do them, so I'm proceeding with caution.
:o] I'm learning a lot between this list and various websites,
ChevyTalk.com being my favorite. For a little light reading, check out
my post there at http://www.chevytalk.org/forums/Forum64/HTML/008451.html
I tease my brother
about building a Honda Killer, but I'm really just after style that's
fun to drive. i.e., I'm not trying to build a race car here. I
haven't weighed the car, but I think that 350 HP / 400 ft lbs would be
fun. From what I've learned so far, that seems pretty do-able for a
guy with my experience and budget.
A little backgound
on my car, since you asked. I am the 3rd owner of a 1967 Malibu.
It was a Wyoming car for much of it's life and then spent some time in New
Mexico before landing here in AZ. She's got some rust, but at levels I
felt were acceptable for a 35 year old car. Trunk, fenders, passenger
rocker - you guys know the drill. None of it too bad, and I got
a lot of replacement sheet metal in the deal. The original owner
butchered the dash when he tried to install an AUDIOVOX cd player (Why, I
oughtta...) and the next guy THREW AWAY the original bench seat to install
some bad buckets. Otherwise, the interior is all original, and kind of
beat up.
The last guy
spent a lot of money on suspension components - new Hotchkis springs, PST
poly bushings, KYB shocks, and sway bars on front and
back.
The original
Powerglide was tired and needed a rest, so it's in a box in my garage.
I've installed a performance-built 2004R in it's place, and am able to
grab second now, even with only 7 cylinders and questionable
tuning. I thought I'd leave the 3.08 limited slip there, as I'm
driving it daily (if I ever can get through emissions). I've got 4 new
235/60/14 Road Huggers on the old 14 x 7 Cragar SS wheels that were on the
car when I bought it. I'll probably go with 17s when I get ready to
convert to power disc fronts next year.
The original 327
block is still there, and was supposedly bored .030 over when it was rebuilt
about 30,000 miles ago. I found the head casting number, and it looks
like they came off a Goodwrench 350. Don't know what, if anything, was
done to them before they found their way onto my 327. I have no
idea what cam I'm dealing with, but I guess it's pretty mild. I've got
a new 750cfm Q-Jet on there now, and I'll be swapping the stock intake for a
Performer RPM here in the next few days. I've done a bunch of
miscellaneous things too - exhaust gaskets, thermostat, plugs,
etc.
Whew. Sorry
you asked, huh? :o] So, back to the problem.
The plug wires are
7.5mm Autolites that were on there when I got the car, and I have the
receipt for them and the cap - both relatively new. The plugs are
new. Points check out okay. I have 9.5 volts into the coil, so
was going to replace the coil last (I have one sitting on the bench waiting
for me). I guess I could replace the rotor while I'm at it... If
it were a spark issue though, you'd think I'd see it on more than one
cylinder, right? Again, unless it was a plug or wire. Or a bad
terminal on the cap? (reaching...)
The advice I'm
getting from the fellas at ChevyTalk is to check valve adjustment.
Other suggestions? Is a leakdown test in order?
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 4:25
AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] A little
help, please...
Hi ya Bill....
First things first. Tell us about
yourself & your car.
What size engine is it? Is it stock?
If not, what's been done to it?
What you describe could be a number
of things. If you've tested the compression & you're sure it is ok
then that leaves fuel & spark. If the valves, springs or cam are a
problem it will usually show up in a compression test. The cheapest
& simplest thing to do is install NEW plugs, plug wires, coil,
distributor cap, rotor & points if it has them. None of this is very
expensive & this will probably fix the problem. If it doesn't,
then you'll have to delve a little farther but at least you'll know your
ignition system is good.
Good luck & don't be shy about
asking questions of the list.
Don
>
Hiya list,
>
> So I'm kind of a beginning hot rodder.
That is to say, I just bought the
> car I've always wanted - a 67
Malibu (okay, I would have liked to have an
> SS, but don't tell her
that. :o] ) but I don't know much about what I'm
> doing yet.
Too bad for me, because she's a little under the weather, and I
>
need to make her well.
>
> I've been lurking in the shadows
on this list for a while now, and my first
> post is to ask you
folks for a little help. Please be gentle - I told you,
> I'm
learning. :o]
>
> A long story real short: She
runs a little rough, esp at low RPMs, and I
> have an emissions
problem with hydrocarbons at idle. The whole car shakes a
>
little bit. I looked at several different things before I
disconnected the
> wires from the cap one at a time with the motor
running. You really don't
> notice much difference on #8
unless you also disconnect another cylinder.
> You really have to
strain to hear any difference - not like the other
> cylinders.
i.e., it fires, but not strong enough so that you notice it
> unless
the motor is really struggling. I swapped plugs and plug wires
with
> #6 cylinder and had the same results, so I guess that brings
me back to
> compression?
>
> Cranking compression test
results were okay when I tested them before, but
> I've never done a
leakdown test. I don't have a tester or a compressor (but
> I
guess those are my next steps, eh?)
>
> This is really not
what I was hoping to find. What are the best case / worst
> case
scenarios you guys, and what's it gonna cost me? Could it be
something
> simple?
>
> I left the details on my
application out for brevity's sake, but I'm happy
> to supply them
if it helps.
>
> TIA,
>
> Bill Bruyn
>
>
>
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