RE: [Chevelle-List] Keeping my numbers matching spun bearing block in the car?

[396guy]

Unless you can find another date coded block with the correct suffix and you want to keep it ~numbers matching~, you'll have to rebuild the current engine.  I'd redo the whole thing and tank the block and heads to remove any bearing particles, surely they've contaminated the entire engine.  (Do they still tank blocks and heads anymore?  Maybe sonic cleaning is the preferred method now?)  Crank kits are readily available in .010/.010 up to .030/.030 if yours can't be salvaged.  I'd also think seriously about replacing the rods (or at least having them checked for size) on those bearings that let go.  Have the shop check the cam and lifter surfaces very carefully as well.   Losing a bearing doesn't always come with dropping oil pressure.  if you have a light it probably doesn't come on 'till the 8-10 lb range anyway.   Another option probably in the same price range would be a 350/330hp crate engine and keep your original if the car is a driver. Dale McIntosh ACES #1709/TC #92 Gold 67 SS/67 Elky http://www.dalesplace.com http://www.team67.com http://www.midwestchevelles.com -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Raj R. Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 11:40 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List] Keeping my numbers matching spun bearing block in the car? Hey guys, it's been a few years but I'm back on the list for a little bit :) (Hi to AZJimmy if he's still around... He still has those cruise-master cruise control units we were trying to figure out.. heheh)..   Anyway, I've got a '71 Chevelle SS with the #'s matching CJD code motor and years ago I had it rebuilt... Nothing extraordinary, and in fact I have no idea on some of the specs.. The only thing I can remember is they supposedly used Keith Black HyperEutectics.. But, regardless, aside from painting it FORD BLUE (YECH!!), the also apparently didn't do the best job in installing the bearings.. See, I'm cruising down the highway a few months ago turning about 4000rpm (3.31's, P235/60/15's on stock SS rims, and a TH-350 with a shift kit and a stock converter) and it gets this rattling/knocking noise.. I pulled it over immediately and got it towed home.. At first I thought it might have been the battery's negative motor-ground came off (mostly frying my fusible link) and was rattling against the fan.. No such luck-- I dropped the pan a little and fished out some chunks of metal.. Yeah-- I think its a bearing.. Strangely, I didn't have an oil light go on.. So I hope that means I'm in the clear as far as major components go (block, heads, etc).. Amyway, do I keep this motor in the car (it's already 30 over) or stick it on a stand and install a freshly rebuilt 350? I was thinking about canibalizing the block for the pistons but I was advised to just build another motor... I intend on keeping the numbers matching block period, but I just figure I'd like to know if its wise to do a bearing job on it or play it safe and drop in another rebuild...   Moneywise they're both going to run similar because I intend on tearing down my original block and tanking it... I WILL have it painted the right color whether or not it goes back in the car right now..   Anyway, any advice is greatly appreciated :) Raj 71 Chevelle Super Sport (L48 350ci, TH-350, 12-bolt 3.31 posi, factory AM/FM, non-working A/C) 67 Plymouth Barracuda Coupe (360ci in the works, A-904, 8-1/4 3.23 open, daily driven krylon painted handles-like-on-rails machine).. heheh