Yes, absolutely avoid having the valve guides knurled; it's a short-term fix at best. New iron (stock to moderate rebuild) or bronze (high-perf) guide inserts are the way to go.
Stainless valves are nice but if your old valves are in good shape and you're not building a screaming monster you can re-use them or replace them with regular steel OEM-style valves. Since you're replacing the cam and lifters IMO new valvesprings are a must; don't cut corners with your valvetrain. Be careful you don't get a builder who insists on using only high-dollar parts, even if your application doesn't call for them. If you don't need stainless steel valves or titanium 10-degree retainers, why pay for them? Send the money to me instead! ;^) Make sure the oil return passages in the cylinder heads are smooth and free of casting flash. Cleaning them up is a simple job that takes a couple of hours with a Dremel or other rotary tool and is time well-spent; oil puddling on top of the heads isn't doing anything to help your engine. Brad O. > I am still trying to figure out which builder I want to go with on my > 396/402. I am tempted to go with doing as much as I can at home, but the > reliability of a local builder that does it all the time and has all the > special tools sounds good, still I won't learn as much. > > In any case, I went into a local speed shop today to talk to them. I was > > I heard once that you don't want valve guides re-knurled. Get new ones. > Anyone have any knowledge there? What about the guys that say they put > in all stainless steel valves and name brand names? Would going through > the expense of putting in all new springs although some test ok have any > merit? > > What other "quality" would you build in for reliability and longevity or > efficiency? > > Steve ----------------------------------------------------- To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
