<snip>
Probably worth just sticking the money into the heads to have the work done
now that you have them in your pocession unless you wanted to go to vortech
heads or are willing to take a step down in performance with a differnt
head.
I'm not sure different heads would be a 'step down' in performance. I would
think factory originality would be the driving factor of what heads to use.
Don't get me
wrong, in their day the 462/492 "camel hump" heads were the baddest on the
block! Now they
are overshadowed by all but the most crappy OEM heads. Their combustion
chamber
is antiquated and it requires a lot of ignition lead to be efficient and
make power which in turn contributes to octane sensitivity and you may
experience detonation. Now, I'm not saying you can't use them or they won't
meet your power goals; because you can and they will...But...Realize that if
you have a set of pre-1970 camel humps (and most are) that they do not have
ductile iron valve seats in them which means you'll have to replace them in
order to run unleaded pump gas. While you're at it you'll probably
determine you need to replace the valves as well. Replacing the seats,
valves, doing a valvejob, and probably reworking the valveguides so it won't
leak will probably set you back around $500-$600. That doesn't include a
little bowl work on the ports which I highly suggest doing (though you can
do this yourself). What I would do instead would be to purchase a set of
World Products S/R Torquer heads. These iron castings were designed as a
bolt on improvement/replacement for the old GM heads. Get the set with the
2.02/1.60 valves and get them complete. You can buy them for a little less
than $700 per pair! When you get them do a little bowl work to improve the
flow a little.
Just my .02..... I have 2 sets of camel backs in the garage because,
even though I replaced them, I can't seem to sell them either!
Hoss
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