454, 4 bolt main block, bored .060" over, decked, and mains honed. [I was told boring an engine out to .060 shortens the life of the block! My present 454 is bored the same, but I was thinking about building a 540 with a Dart block. Any opinions?] If you've got the money for an aftermarket block, that's definitely the way to go. Before you build a huge engine though, make sure what you plan to do with the car. Since I like to hit the road with my El, I didn't want the engine to be too outrageous so it would still be drivable. A 540 sounds cool and all, but even with overdrive I bet your mpg will still be less than 15 on the highway. That can get pretty expensive on a long trip.
Scat Lightweight Pro Comp 4340 forged steel crank (60 lbs): [Why Scat.Do you feel they are the best?] For what I was doing, Scat had the best parts at a reasonable price. Also their reputation was very good and a friend of mine personally knows the owner of Scat (they go way back) so for me it was a no brainer. Scat 6.385" 4340 H-beam rods w/ 7/16" ARP cap screws Clevite 77 HP main & rod bearings w/ dry film lubricant coating: [What does the dry film lubricate do? If it's Teflon, wouldn't you be worried about it peeling off?] The DFL is there to protect the bearings in case of losing oil pressure. Considering the cost of the crank and rods, I felt it was cheap insurance. To my knowledge, the coating doesn't wear off, but it does move around. The guy that did the coating said if I take the engine apart, I'll see that the coating filled the low spots on the bearings and left the high spots. Of course that may be on a microscopic level for all I know. SRP forged 4032 aluminum pistons, 10.3:1 cr w/ thermal barrier coating on top and dry film lubricant on skirts: [Is there a problem with the coatings peeling off the pistons? What benefits does the thermal barrier do for the pistons? Is this because you are running Nitrous?" If the coatings are applied correctly, the should not peel or flake - to my knowledge. The benefits are cooler running pistons and protection from detonation. I actually wanted to have the combustion chambers, valve faces, and exhaust ports coated also but I was running out of money so I had to compromise a bit. Another benefit from coating everything is keeping the heat from combustion in the cylinder where it makes power instead of letting it dissipate through the aluminum heads and piston tops. And I don't have nitrous on this engine. In fact, I've never used nitrous before. Total Seal TS1 rings: [Are these the best way to go?] I don't know if they're the best, but they have been around quite a while and they have a good reputation. I know other companies offer gapless rings, but I never hear about them or read articles that use them. AFR 305 Magnum aluminum heads: [I was thinking about using the largest Dart Aluminum heads available! Why did you go with AFR?" I know they have good heads! What about your heads, where they coated?] I went with AFR because they have the highest flow numbers and the smallest ports. For other brands to achieve equal flow numbers, the ports were way too big for my cam choice. I didn't want the engine to feel lazy down low so I wanted to keep the ports somewhat small to maintain flow velocity. Comp Cams hydraulic roller camshaft (.612" lift w/ 245* dur @ .050"): [ I like Comp as well! And plan to use one of their roller cams.] My original cam was a Crower but it got wiped out by a faulty lifter. Schubeck Racing Roller-X hydraulic roller lifters: [ Why didn't you use the whole set up using Comp's parts from beginning to end?] I was going to use Comp roller lifters but after reading about the Schubeck lifters I decided to give them a try. Hind sight being 20/20 and all, I should have used a solid flat tappet and been done with it. I like to spin my engines and the standard hydraulic rollers are very heavy and when rpm gets high, valve float happens. The Schubecks are very light (64 grams each) so they're better for high rpm and they don't use needle bearings which is truly the main reason I went with them. Getting back to my 20/20 comment, the cost and time involved to use the Schubeck's I don't think it was worth it. The lifters alone cost $1000. Then I had to modify the block so if I ever decide to change back to a regular type lifter, I either have to get a new block or have the lifter bores sleeved, which means even more money. This is probably one thing I would change if I could go back in time. Jesel SS series shaft rocker arms (1.7:1): [ Why didn't you use the whole set up using Comp's parts from beginning to end? What about Cranes Golden Aluminum ones. I see them on many of the top builds.] Although I know Jesels has been around a long time and makes primo products, I went with Jesel because I wanted the reliability of a shaft rocker system. Quick Fuel Technologies VS 850 cfm carb: [ With my BDS Blower the owner sold me 2 Holley 4150 750's. They have been dyno tuned. Why Quick Fuel?] I tried a Demon 750 VS and a Demon 850 DP, neither one would work very well on my engine. After doing some research, I discovered that Quick Fuel hand builds their carbs and actually run them on an engine instead of wet flowing them on a flow bench. On top of that, the guys that started Quick Fuel used to be big guns at Holley so I figure they know a thing or two about carbs. Holley 120 gph mechanical fuel pump: [ I went with a matching setup from Aeromotive, rated to around 1000HP. I forget the capacity, but it will handle more than I have under the hood. Plus I used a Rick's SS special made gas tank. I hated giving up my trunk space, plus I like the comfort of having a spare and tools in the trunk!] I'm still working on my fuel delivery system. I intend to have a SS tank built and I want to replace the 3/8 hard line with 1/2" from the tank to the fuel pump. Speaking of the fuel pump, I think I might try one of those piston pumps... http://www.racepumps.com/index.html MSD Digital E-curve distributor: I went with MSD all the way except I use the 6 BTM box, so I can adjust my timing. I liked the way I could adjust the timing curves by changing a dip switch. Since the e-curve has a built in rev limiter, I only needed to go with the 6A. Denso Iridium spark plugs (# IK20): [Are these the way to go, or are they used because you use NO?] According to my friend (I mentioned him above re Scat) he says right now the Denso plugs are the best plug available. To quantify my friend's opinion, he's an automotive technical writer, has a degree or two in auto engineering, and spark plugs are a side hobby of his. This guy knows his spark plugs! Canton Racing Products 7 qt oil pan: [ Do you like their pans, better than others?] Canton is a very good, customer service oriented company - at least from my experience. I had a Moroso pan and it rubbed on the cross member and it was a pita to remove the oil filter because of the side kick out. When I called Canton and explained what I had and what I was looking for, they were very eager to help me out but then said it would take at least 8 weeks to get my pan made. After 4 weeks, UPS drops off a package and much to my surprise, there was my custom made pan! The only thing I don't like about this pan is that it's geared more toward circle track and has a huge kick out on the passenger side which means I either have to remove the header or trans to get the starter out. Back when I was having clutch issues, while everything was out, I installed a mini starter so maybe if I ever have to pull it, I can just loosen the header to get the needed room. I'll see when the time comes. Moroso blueprinted HV oil pump: [ I was unaware they blueprinted oil pumps. What do they cost?] They're $110 at Summit, part number MOR-22162. Spin Tech Truck/RV mufflers, (3 1/2" in and 3" out): [ I went Magna flow 3" SS. They look and sound great, and have a lifetime guarantee. [Why Spin Tech. I have never heard of them?] I went with Spin-tech because not many people have heard of them. They sound very different from the cookie cutter Flowmaster. On top of that, when I called them they were very responsive to what I wanted and built these to my specs. I'd like to see Flowmaster or some other big muffler company do that for me! You'll notice that when companies respond to my needs, I become very loyal to them, especially if they also make great products! Ceramic coating from header flanges to exhaust tips: [ I have ceramic Hooker headers from Jet Hot. Why do you need the whole system ceramic coated? Seems gravel could chip them?] Gravel won't chip the coating. I coated the whole system for two reasons, one is it helps retain heat within the system to maintain exhaust velocity and two it just looks so much better then plain pipe! Ron Davis Racing aluminum radiator w/ custom fan shroud: [ I went with the largest Be Cool 1000 HP and matching fans. Are Ron Davis the best?] I went with Ron Davis because they were responsive to my needs (see, there's another one!) and put together a very nice radiator/shroud system for my El. On top of that, the engine runs cool as a cucumber even with the A/C running. I don't know if Ron Davis is the best, but their products satisfy my needs. Detroit Tru-Trac differential: [ I went with Eaton, but sometimes wonder if I would have been better off with a Tru-Trac. I use a modified 12 Bolt. C clips removed] I considered a Detroit Locker but I had one in my first car and it made too much noise around corners. I wanted something smooth that wouldn't need to be rebuilt down the road. Since the Tru-Trac is all gears there's nothing to wear out. Front brakes - Baer GT w/ C5 pin drive calipers and 12.75" x 1.25" rotors: [ I went with the Cat 5 System by Global West. They sell Wilwood and it was a matching set with the suspension. I cruise more than drag. I admit Baer makes a good product, but.they were terrible on the phone, plus for 15" rims they had only single or double units.] I think the problem with Baer is they have so much business they're having a hard time keeping up with it. I've talked with the Baer folks on Power Tour and they're all great and are really into the hot rod thing. On the down side, their stuff is very costly. I have Wilwood calipers on my Vette but I had to design the brackets because nobody offered a kit for that car. I then had a fab shop actually make the brackets for me. They've been on the car now for about 8 years and have worked flawlessly. Hydratech hydro booster: [ I have the same unit and love it!] Same here, love it, and plan to get one for my other cars as well! Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve: [ Why would you use a Wilwood valve with Baer brakes?] The valve that came with my Baer brakes is actually a Wilwood valve that had a Baer sticker covering the engraved Wilwood name. I like to give credit where credit is due!
