Hi Karl,
I use a Hobart handler 140 w/ shielding gas on most sheetmetal
work. I run the heat at 3 and speed around 35. If I burn through I
will either back the heat off or increase wire speed to 50ish.
Usually the wire speed and keeping my hand moving takes care of the
blow through. Definitely something to play with on scraps if you
can.
Lincoln welders and others have some nice how-to weld sections.
Here is the Hobart linc. Good info for different materials and
welding type.
http://www.hobartwelders.com/techtips.html
Walt
http://www.personal.kent.edu/~wbainey/CHEVELLE.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: Karl Groves <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 10:31 am
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Welding question
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' <Chevelle-list@chevelles.net>
> I have a Lincoln Electric HandyMiG (#20580) 110V welder and a
> little Clarke
> 95E (#WE6490) stick welder.
>
> The MiG welder has been doing a great job at welding my rotisserie
> (which is
> almost complete!).
> The Clarke machine just couldn't get good penetration even when we
> crankedthe power all the way up. I tried 4 different types & sizes
> of sticks and it
> just couldn't do it. It only takes 1/16 or 5/64 sticks, which
> should have
> been my first sign that it couldn't cut the mustard.
>
> So, my question is this: I also have some welding to do on the
> sheet metal
> (floorboards, quarters, etc.) on my Chevelle. When I weld some
> practicepieces with my MiG, it is really hard to keep from burning
> right through the
> material. I was contemplating selling the stick welder, but now
> that I
> think about it, I was wondering whether I could use it on the
> sheet metal.
>
> Does anyone else have any experience with this, to offer some
insight?
>
> Thanks
>
> Karl Groves
> Master Certified CIW
> http://www.karlgroves.com
>
> Grayscale Content Management System:
> http://www.grayscalecms.com
>
> Independent Musician's Handbook:
> http://www.indiebook.com
>
>
>
>
