I haven't seen any other info (probably just haven't looked hard enough) on
making a single cable for use in console connections (should be useful for
Aux, also), so here are my instructions.
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HOWTO make your own Cisco console cable (RJ-45 to DB-9/DB-25)
Did you get a router without a console kit?
Tired of having to find yet another adapter, especially if moving your lab?
Just like the satisfaction of making your own creations?
Well then grab some wire and connectors, because here are some instructions.
Purpose- To make a cable to connect from a Cisco router/switch console port
to a serial port on a PC. Information can also be used when terminating
Console, Aux and computer serial ports at a RJ-45 patch panel for lab setup
convenience(my next project) .
Audience- Cisco CCxx certification candidates, anyone wishing to
communicate with Cisco switches/routers. Hopefully reader has some
experience with cabling and soldering, but I will try to make this a good
starting guide for newbies also, so if you've never made a cable before,
prepare to have some fun.
Materials-
1 RJ-45 connector
1 RJ-45 strain relief (Optional, Recommended)
1 female DB9/DB-25 solder type connector (I normally use insulation
displacement, but those need stranded wire, which I don't have RJ-45's, nor
cable for)
1 length of cat 5 cable, 5-10 feet is a good starting length, but make
cables whatever length you need.
1 DB9/DB25 hood, preferably with thumb screws (Optional, Recommended)
Tools-
1 RJ-45 crimper, capable of crimping the style of connectors you have
(yes there is a difference)
1 Set of cable strippers or razor blade
1 Set of cable cutters (or use strippers to cut cable)
1 Soldering Iron + Solder + Sponge
1 Method of holding DB connector while soldering, I used a vise, a set
of locking pliers will help in a pinch.
Work area-
A bench or a table are nice, good light is a necessity.
Process-
1. Start by cutting cat 5 cable to length.
2. Strip end back about 3/4" (yes longer than needed), check conductor
insulation around the striped area under bright light for any nicks. Cut
and restrip if nicks are present.
2a. Straighten the conducters out into 568B order (see below), then
holding them in order, trim to length, long enough to terminate properly
(hitting the end of the connector), while short enough so the cables outer
jacket will be crimped into the strain relief.
568B pinout- From pin 1: W/O, O, W/G, B, W/B, G, W/Brn, Brn.
3. Insert cable into connector, being careful not to disturb their order
4. After double checking conductor length (Do conductors hit the end of
the connector and is the jacket under the strain relief?), crimp connector.
Ok one side is done, now time for the computer side with the DB connector.
Note: Currently I have only made this with a DB9 connector, I will try to
include pinouts for the DB25, although I hope anyone working on their CCxx
cert can figure it out.
5. Start soldering Iron (if not already started), and wet sponge (used
to clean soldering iron tip).
6. Strip other end of cable about 3/4", being careful not to nick the
conductors, check conductor insulation around the striped area under bright
light for any nicks. Cut and restrip if nicks are present.
6b. Strip the end of each conductor about 1/16" of an inch (Yes I know
that seems short, but you don't need much for connectivity, and more of the
insulation will melt, I guarantee. Strip the ends of the two ground wires
(Blue and White/Blue) about a 1/4" of an inch.
7. Mount the DB9 connector in the vise or whatever means you are using
to solder it. I find it useful if the solder cups are facing me, and touch
the iron to the back of the cups. Also I cut off pins I know I won't use,
makes it easier to maneuver, and one less chance of screwing up. So cut
off pins 6,9 if you want.
8. Clean and flux iron (Wipe off, on wet sponge, melt some solder on
iron tip)
9. Tin the solder cups (Melt a little solder in them, I usually just
stick the solder in the cup and then hit the back of the cup with the
iron, until the solder melts. Helpful to have the iron properly tinned
(covered with a thin coat of solder).
10. Start soldering the wires. I start with pin 5, since I have 2
ground wires to go in there. Also I usually orientate the connector so I
am working towards myself (pin 5 furthest away). Use the color code listed
below. Most DB connectors are numbered on the connector, it's just always
hard to read. Connectors are numbered 1-5 on one side, 6-9 on the
other. For 6-9 I usually just try to read 7 and 8 and go from there, since
faint 6's and 9's look alike.
10a. Twist the two grounds (Blue and White/Blue) together tightly and
then cut down to about 1/6" of an inch, making sure that the conductors are
twisted enough to fit into the solder cup.
10b. Heat the cup with the iron and insert wire(s).
10c. Repeat until done.
DB-9 color code
1 Org
2 W/G
3 Grn
4 W/Brn
5 Blu and W/Blu
6 N/A
7 Brn
8 W/O
9 N/A
11. Check cable: another visible check, then plug it in and see if it
works
11a. If the cable works, put the hood on (if you have one)
11b. Uniquely label the cable, both ends. It may not seem like a big
deal now, but it sure is nice when you have several routers terminating in
the same place to be able to identify which cable goes to each
device. Even if your label is only a serial number such as 1001, 1002,
etc. you will be able to trouble shoot cabling problems without resorting
to the old, tug the cable and see what moves routine (I've done enough of
that in my life).
12. Enjoy :-)
Hopefully I will get this on my web site soon.
I hope this helps somebody, if there are any major problems, corrections or
advice please let me know-
Matt Wehland
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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