Jonathan,
The tape is not as wide as the bed, leaving a void for sealant which does fill 
any irregularities. 

Harry

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 6, 2013, at 11:43 AM, Indigo <ind...@thethomsons.us> wrote:

> Re. the tape. I would be concerned that the gap between the window pane and 
> the glass-fiber frame is not of consistent depth. The adhesive will built up 
> where it needs to and fill the voids. Tape would not do that.
>  
> Jonathan
> Indigo 35-III
> Southport CT
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd 
> Schillay
> Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 9:48 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Butyl Tape or 3M Tape on Windows
>  
> All,
>  
>             Has anyone tried using Butyl Tape or that high-strength 3M tape 
> to fasten their windows (without drilling holes for screws)?
>  
>             I just spoke with a 3M rep, who says their 5952 tape would do the 
> job very well. 
> (http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Adhesives/Tapes/Products/%7E/All-3M-Products/Industry-and-Professionals/Industrial-Adhesives-Tapes/Double-Sided-Bonding-Tapes/3M-VHB-Tape?Ntt=5952&rt=s&x=0&y=0)
>  
>  
>             I'm worried about the curve, cracking and leaks, of course. 
>  
>           Yeah yeah, I know. Another C&C Windows topic. Sue me. 
>          
>          
>           All the best,
>  
>           Edd
>  
>  
>           Edd M. Schillay
>           Starship Enterprise
>           C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>           City Island, NY 
>           Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log Website
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> 
>  
> On Mar 5, 2013, at 8:42 PM, Brent Driedger <bren...@highspeedcrow.ca> wrote:
> 
> 
> Although I didn't do it I'm still curious to see if someone would be willing 
> to use 3M double sided tape. The expensive stuff with the red backing. The 
> same stuff that airplane manufacturers are sticking fuselage parts together 
> with. I was going to give it a go but I broke the old window while removing 
> it. At 500 bucks I wasn't willing to waste a new window on an experiment. 
> I went plexus and had very good results- the second time around. The key is 
> the shims to prevent you from squeezing out all the goodness. 
> 
> I wish Practical sailor would clear this up once and for all!
> 
> Cheers
> Brent Driedger
> C&C 27-v
> Lake Winnipeg
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On 2013-03-05, at 8:16 AM, "Kim Brown" <kimcbr...@comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> All, 
> I am getting the boat out of the yard Thursday with a fresh bottom (after 5
> years in the water year round it was time - though got to love Trinidad SR
> at least in this area). Also dealt with assorted blisters dings and gouges;
> torqued out a slight smirk; got the Martec rebuilt; replaced the cutlass
> bearing; replaced the dripping dripless stuffing box; dressed the shaft;
> lubed the thru hulls; addressed a centerboard 'issue'; and otherwise got it
> ready to float for another couple years. Once back home, I am going to
> tackle the frameless fixed lights-another project past due. I know from past
> discussions to get cast acrylic and use the old ones as templates- easy
> enough. The bedding choices seem to be between Plexus and Sikaflex 295UV.
> One requires a special mixing caulk gun and the other an outrageously priced
> primer. Anyone have an easier third choice that has worked well? I need good
> enough - not perfect. I want to get going as they are playing baseball here
> so the weather is bound to get out of the 60/70s and be warm enough to sail
> soon. 
> 
> Kim Brown
> Trust Me!!! 35-3 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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