Hi Chris,
My keel joint treatment was very similar to what Dennis describes
except I used chopped fibreglass strand instead of carbon (I don't
need the weight savings down there :)
Still good 5 years later.
Cheers, Russ
Sweet, 35 mk-1
At 06:33 PM 23/06/2013, you wrote:
Most important factor is to properly torque the keelbolts. Loosen
them and then torque them to 350 ft lbs dry or 10% less if lubricated.
That done, the keel should not flex on the keel stub and you can
then glass the hull/keel joint.
I dug out all soft and crumbly material and filled the shallow gap
with a epoxy and chopped carbon fiber. Then I
glassed the joint with biaxial tape.
You may notice a small separation at the aft end of the joint
also. This area of the joint is a bit far from any keel bolts and
thus subject to cracking, particularly if you have a hydraulic
backstay adjuster and over adjuster it.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
From: JC Raha <jcr...@cox.net>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 7:24 PM
Subject: Stus-List What is used for the keel hull joint
Hi to all;
Hope you are enjoying your windward travels....
I have a 1970 Redwing 35 (RW7017)...C&C 35 MK I.
We are still on the hard curing a case of boat pox at and to
approximately 18" below the water line.
Before I address the keel/hull joint I would like to know what has
been tried and works.
The keel/hull joint towards the bow appears to be filled with a soft
compound...
The keel/hull joint appears to be tight..she does not smile...
I have read several blogs that talk about glassing the joint
solid..seems like the joint really wants to flex.
The approach would be to dig out what I can and fill with 3M 4000 .
Any thoughts?
Enjoy!!!!
Chris Raha
"CIRCE"
C&C 35 MKI
Yorktown, Va.
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