My water heater quit - it is not plumbed to the engine. First, how do you check 
the anode to see if it is working? Second, I have a fresh water cooled engine, 
I assume I can just take the water exit hose (which now goes to the mixing 
elbow) and put it into the heater???? and then into the mixing elbow???

The plumbing section of your local hardware store must love you....neat pix.

Gary

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Josh Muckley 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2014 3:42 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Marine Plumbing (now water heater rebuild)


  Just a quick look at one of my many winter projects.

  I updated the water heater plumbing to facilitate end of season flushing and 
anode check/change.  The engine heats the water to about 180°F so I added a 
thermal mixing valve to extend the available hot water and prevent burns.  The 
cold water enters the bottom and doesn't facilitate flushing well so I put a 
3-way valve in to switch the cold water inlet to the top and then I can open 
the drain.

  I intend to make a double female garden hose to allow flushing of the engine 
and A/C with fresh water from the heater drain.

  I also got a 200W silicone heater pad that I will be attaching to the inner 
tank surface.  It will at as a load for the furture solar panels when the 
batteries are fully charged and need a place to dump excess power.

  While I have it out I'll also repaint and restore everything else on the tank.

  https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUG9pd18zazdIZlk/edit

  Later,
  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk

  On Dec 19, 2013 11:37 AM, "Rich Knowles" <r...@sailpower.ca> wrote:

    I agree on the PEX. FWIW, when I redid my plumbing, I added a large, 
household size, activated charcoal filter in the feed line to the fresh water 
pressure pump. I change the element every spring and have good tasting potable 
water at all times. 

    Rich

    On Dec 19, 2013, at 12:05, "Marek Dziedzic" <dziedzi...@hotmail.com> wrote:


      +1 for PEX. But I would not rip all the existing plumbing and replace it. 
At least, you won’t sink the boat if your plumbing fails (you may flood the 
bilge, but it is not critical).

      Marek
      _____________________________________________________________________
      ------------------------------

      Message: 2
      Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 07:46:47 -0500
      From: "Jake Brodersen" <captain_j...@cox.net>
      To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
      Subject: Re: Stus-List Marine Plumbing
      Message-ID: <070801cefcb8$61948b30$24bda190$@cox.net>
      Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

      Josh,

       

      I have had several failures of the grey butyl plumbing pipe.  I have
      replaced it with PEX tubing.  It is flexible and easy to work with and
      available in many places.  I find RV stores a good place to pick it up.  
The
      fittings are compression type and will mate with the existing plumbing.  
To
      me, it's a no-brainer.  Oh, and did I mention that it's cheap.???

       

      Jake


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