As part if my spring prep I want to check my base point on my mast tuning. Alera does not have adjustable back stays but does have a baby stay for some tuning. But my question goes to the basic initial setting.
What is the appropriate top mast position? I under stand the idea of using the weighted halyard to set it but Alera, like many boats has a stud list at rest. I'm not too sure how to account for this when tuning the rigging. Tom B Tom Buscaglia A/V Alera Vashon WA > On Jan 19, 2014, at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: > > Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to > cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com > > You can reach the person managing the list at > cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Chartplotter Question (Rick Brass) > 2. Re: Speed Vr. Acceleration set up (Dennis C.) > 3. Re: Speed Vr. Acceleration set up (Chuck S) > 4. Re: Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0 (Dennis C.) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2014 09:40:47 -0500 > From: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net> > To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Chartplotter Question > Message-ID: <632f899c-fef9-4ad1-883d-8219fdb7f...@earthlink.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > That is exactly how the Garmin plotters on my boats work, the Garmin software > is called Homeport, and cost something like $20. Set up routes on the pc, > copy to an SD card, and put the SD card into the plotter. You can also > uploadActive Captain to the plotter the same way, and this makes the crowd > sourced info on hazards, marinas, fuel prices, etc come up on the plotter > display. > > Rick brass > > Sent from my iPad > >> On Jan 18, 2014, at 12:40, Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com> wrote: >> >> David, check out page 22-23 in the manual. There is a file transfer thingie >> buried in the Utilities menu. You have to use Lowrance software to do your >> pre-planning, copy that to a data card, stick that in the slot on the >> plotter, etc. >> >> Jim Watts >> Paradigm Shift >> C&C 35 Mk III >> Victoria, BC >> >> >>> On 18 January 2014 08:08, David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com> wrote: >>> My ?new? boat came with a Lowrance HDS-5 chartplotter/gps. Reading this >>> discussion, I was hoping that I could do some plotting of routes ahead of >>> time and then upload info to the HDS5 when I get to the boat. However, I >>> find no information about any connection/upload of information in the >>> manual. Does anyone know if it is somehow possible to do? Thanks- Dave >>> >>> >>>> >>>>> On Jan 17, 2014, at 5:44 PM, Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com> >>>>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> I tried the A75 wifi version at the boat show - I had downloaded the >>>>> RayControl app on my tablet ahead of time. I walked up, reset the wi-fi, >>>>> and was connected to it before the rep could get over to see what I was >>>>> doing. Works a treat, easy to set up, and on my shopping list. Fred - >>>>> do you ship to Canada??? If so I'm looking for some Ray goods... >>>>> Graham Collins >>>>> Secret Plans >>>>> C&C 35-III #11 >>>>>> On 2014-01-17 12:35 PM, Frederick G Street wrote: >>>>>> Steve ? you might consider one of the new Raymarine ?a? series displays; >>>>>> cheaper than the e7, and they play well together on the Seatalk >>>>>> HS/Raynet network. Even the smallest a65 has the network connection, >>>>>> and can share all the data and control the system. Advantages over the >>>>>> iPad solution are permanently-connected power and much better >>>>>> waterproof-ability than the iPad. >>>>>> >>>>>> Let me know if you?d like pricing. >>>>>> >>>>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis >>>>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( >>>>>> >>>>>>> On Jan 17, 2014, at 10:26 AM, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> >>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Steve, >>>>>>> >>>>>>> My E7 is at the helm. The problem is that you can only see it when you >>>>>>> are behind the wheel. I have not tried the Ray app on the IPad, but >>>>>>> for the Bermuda race I intend to use a RamMount and a waterproof case >>>>>>> so I can mirror the E7 and swivel the IPad from side to side. I >>>>>>> installed a power outlet in the NavPod to keep the Ipad charged. I >>>>>>> also have both the Garmin and Navionics apps on the IPad as a backup. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> The new OS for the E7 should be out by spring. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Joel >>>>>>> 35/3 >>>>>>> Annapolis >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> David Knecht >>> Aries >>> 1990 C&C 34+ >>> New London, CT >>> >>> <pastedGraphic.tiff> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20140119/0569f623/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2014 07:16:01 -0800 (PST) > From: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com> > To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Speed Vr. Acceleration set up > Message-ID: > <1390144561.97676.yahoomail...@web164803.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Curtis, > > First, obtain and read North U.'s two books by Bill Gladstone, "Racing Trim" > and "Performance Racing Tactics".? Although there are lots of books on sail > trim ("Sail Power" by Wallace Ross, old but good, for instance), North U's > books are easy to read and understand. > > Second, unless it's "blowing stink", you won't get to hull speed downwind > with JAM.? The best thing you can do is to carry your upwind speed through > the rounding.? The best way to do that is to approach the windward mark on > starboard and bear off on starboard.? However, tactical considerations and > decisions before and after the mark may result in you doing something > different. > > In windward/leeward racing, you have "upwind" mode and "downwind" mode.? You > and your crew need to be able to shift between the two quickly and > competently.? Every crew needs an assignment. > > On Touche' we shift to downwind mode AFTER rounding the windward mark.? We > shift to upwind mode BEFORE rounding the leeward mark.? The reason is simple, > upwind mode requires the halyards, etc. to be tensioned.? It's easier to > over-tension everything and ease it than to try to tension something when > under load.? > > When rounding the windward mark, carry your speed past the mark with a nice > smooth, round turn.? Once through the turn, switch to downwind mode in a > deliberate fashion.? The boat should be moving well and you won't lose or > gain much during the transition.? More often than not, in JAM racing, the > boat will be slower downwind anyway. > > On the other hand, at the leeward rounding, you should be in upwind mode > before the rounding.? Carry speed through the turn and don't turn up too > quickly.? Keep the boat in trim.? It's important that the trimmers and > helmsperson work together to accelerate the boat.? Trim the sails in > deliberately as the helmsperson steers up to course. > > Downwind mode: > > * Main and genoa halyards eased > * Outhaul eased > * Vang tensioned > * Backstay eased > * Traveler car out > > Upwind mode > > * Main and genoa halyards tensioned > * Outhaul tensioned > * Vang eased > * Backstay tensioned > * Traveler car centered or slightly to windward > > Have fun! > > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > > >> ________________________________ >> From: Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com> >> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 10:25 PM >> Subject: Stus-List Speed Vr. Acceleration set up >> >> >> >> O.K what is the sail set for Acceleration Versus Speed? After I round the >> windward mark no spinnaker and I want to accelerate back to hull speed? How >> do I set the sails to get the max takeoff speed? >> >> >> Thanks. >> >> >> C&C30 MK1 >> Curtis. >> ? >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> >> At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much. >> -??Robin Lee Graham >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20140119/b7416b32/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2014 16:01:06 +0000 (UTC) > From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List Speed Vr. Acceleration set up > Message-ID: > > <2126869077.364069.1390147266291.javamail.r...@sz0179a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Curtis, > I suggest you find some books or videos on racing, sail trim, etc. > Rounding the windward mark is a dynamic problem with many ever changing > variables. Wind speed, waves, other boats approaching and transitioning. You > approach hard on the wind, and exit on a broad reach if there is a wing mark. > If the leeward mark is dead down wind, you need to sail wing and wing or to > your boats optimum angle for best VMG. In high winds when you are powered up, > you simply need to steer smoothly. In light winds you may be approaching near > hull speed and exiting a 2 knots, so it's more important to limit crew > movement and adjust sails in a much slower progression. > > Comining into the mark, you are trimmed for upwind sailing so backstay, > outhaul, cunningham are tight. After rounding you are sailing downwind, so > these adjustments need to be eased somewhat for the new leg with less > apparent wind. Some skippers adjust their cunningham, outhaul, backstay in > the last three boatlengths before the mark. That way they can focus more on > making a smooth tactical turn. We have a barberhauler setup for reaches and > the pole ready if it's more dead downwind. > > Like someone else mentioned already, crewing on other peoples' boats is a > great way to learn getting around the race course and make competitive > sailing friends. > > My current favorite books are dated, but you can find on Amazon: > Yacht Crewing, Macolm McKeag, 1984 (Great resource for racing as crew on any > keelboat) > A Manual of Sail Trim, Stuart H. Walker, 1984 (This is the bible of sailtrim) > Getting Started In Sailboat Racing, Adam Cort and Richard Stearns, 2005 (very > throrough reference for racing) > > Easier to read and digest: > Mainsail Trimming, Felix Marks, 2007 (simpler, what to look for approach with > many photos) > Jib Trimming, Felix Marks, 2007 (a companion to the Mainsail Trim book, > you'll want both) > > Racing is a good way to improve your sailing techniques. > > > Chuck > Resolute > 1990 C&C 34R > Atlantic City, NJ > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Josh Muckley" <muckl...@gmail.com> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2014 4:59:39 AM > Subject: Re: Stus-List Speed Vr. Acceleration set up > > > > Curtis, > > These are some basic racing questions. You will probably learn more, faster, > if you crew on someone else's boat. Alternatively some of the listers might > have some suggestions for a "learn to race" book. Most learn to sail "sailing > for dummies" type books have a section for racing too. > > My point about it being a delicate balance is that often times in an effort > to get to the mark, it is very easy for the helmsman to turn up and point a > little too close to the wind. Falling off 5? and accelerating 1-2kts is > usually better. Fall off 10? or 20? and you're adding too much distance to > the mark. Of course this is all in referance to the upwind leg of a race. If > you can point straight at the mark and keep the sails trimmed for a broad > reach then obviously do so (Except for the effects of set and drift). > > Too much rudder when approaching and rounding the mark will slow you down so > stay a little wide (1-2 boat lengths depending) on approach. Make a nice > smooth arc such that as you straighten out you are passing the mark. > > Being on the correct side of the course is very helpful. Picture a port > rounding(left turn). If while on approach you have an opportunity to move > more to the right of the mark then you will be making the turn around the > mark at a less acute angle. If on the other hand you find yourself moving > more to the left of the mark then you will be making the rounding with a more > acute angle. The sharper curve slows the boat more and being left can cause > interferences with on coming boats. > > "Accelerating" away from the mark can be achieved by being a little bit off > the wind, accelerating, and then coming up to the wind. Bear in mind that all > of this discussion is predicated on the crew trimming the sails correctly and > in close coordination with the helmsman. > > Tacking will slow you down. Avoid unnecessarily tacking. Make clean and > coordinated tacks. Don't "throw" the wheel over. Again make smooth curves. > Overshoot the tack just a little, accelerate, and come up to the new point of > sail. > > Try to get clean upwind air. You may have to tack to get clean air. Making > for a lay line far from the rounding is probably not going work well, there > are too many variables to the mark. Until you get more expierience, stick > with the pack. > > Your start will set the tone for the entire race. Determine which end of the > line is favored. Try to cross the start on starboard so you have rights. > Tacking across the line can work but the tack slows you down. Try to be > windward of everyone else. > > Or you could just start the engine > > Josh > On Jan 19, 2014 1:43 AM, "Curtis" < cpt.b...@gmail.com > wrote: > > > > Yes Your right Jim That HC of 171 will go right the window. > > > " The helmsman should be absolutely carefull not to pinch or come up into the > wind. It is a very delicate balance between sailing too close to the wind and > too far from the mark." > > > > > So would it be better for me just starting out racing to stay as close to > abeam as possible even if I have to tack more often instead of trying to sail > to close? Do my long leg first, Stay in the middle, Tack early? > > > > > > > > > > > On Sun, Jan 19, 2014 at 12:37 AM, Jim Watts < paradigmat...@gmail.com > > wrote: > > <blockquote> > > The quick way is to start your engine and kick it up to 3000 RPM, but you may > take a hit in PHRF for that. > > > > Jim Watts > Paradigm Shift > C&C 35 Mk III > Victoria, BC > > > > > > On 18 January 2014 21:28, Josh Muckley < muckl...@gmail.com > wrote: > > <blockquote> > > > There is no way to trim for "take off". There is properly trimmed and > improperly trimmed. Period. There are things you can do to move closer and > closer to properly trimmed, but simply trim according to the wind. More > important, enter the rounding wide and exit close to the mark. > > So the question you are actually asking is, "How do I trim sails properly." > To which the answer is quite involved. At any point while sailing, the > general guide for trimming sails is "when in doubt let it out". The other > guide is to trim so as to imagine cutting the wind evenly across both sides > of the sail. I use the windex and trim till the luff edge is parallel to the > windex. This gives a ruff trim until you have time to get back and tweek them > properly. > > Once you get around the mark and the sails are coursely adjusted you and the > crew can work on fine tuning. Use the tell-tails and boat speed to tweak in > the sails. > > The helmsman should be absolutely carefull not to pinch or come up into the > wind. It is a very delicate balance between sailing too close to the wind and > too far from the mark. > > Aside from proper sail trim there are many other factors and tactics for > navigating the boat during a race. Enough to file many volumes. > > Josh > > > On Jan 18, 2014 11:25 PM, "Curtis" < cpt.b...@gmail.com > wrote: > > <blockquote> > > > > O.K what is the sail set for Acceleration Versus Speed? After I round the > windward mark no spinnaker and I want to accelerate back to hull speed? How > do I set the sails to get the max takeoff speed? > > > Thanks. > > > C&C30 MK1 > Curtis. > > > > > > > -- > > At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much. > - Robin Lee Graham > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > </blockquote> > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > </blockquote> > > > > > -- > > At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much. > - Robin Lee Graham > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > </blockquote> > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20140119/e30cc762/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2014 08:18:18 -0800 (PST) > From: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com> > To: Peter Fell <prf...@gmail.com>, "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0 > Message-ID: > <1390148298.43116.yahoomail...@web164804.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Peter, > > What caused the damage to the top of the extrusion?? Hard to tell from the > pic.? Need to figure that out. > > Yes, you can cut the extrusion off, but only if you have enough extra at the > bottom inside the torque tube to be able to slide the extrusion assembly > upward so it rides on the swage barrel again. > > The MKIV unit would be a nice upgrade.? You could sell the old one on > Craigslist or eBay.? I typically get $300-400 for a used Harken furler on > eBay.? The issue you'd have is the roll pins.? You can drive them out with a > pin punch. > > You can make a top cap from a PVC pipe cap or similar thing.? You could use a > cap from a bottle, etc.? Any tough plastic cap would do.? I'd drill a hole > the size of the swage barrel and split the cap.? Loosen the allen screws in > the torque tube, slide the extrusion down, spread the split to slide it over > the wire, wrap the cap with tape and slide it up over the swage barrel.? I've > replaced top caps this way except the units were new enough we could get the > Harken cap for them.? The one on Touche' is this way.? I have to re-tape it > every couple of years. > > The other option you could try is to make a top cap similar to the new MKIV > trim caps.? The new trim caps slide into the extrusion.? It's Harken > #HFG679.? Go here:? > http://www.harken.com/uploadedfiles/Product_Support/PDF/4416-Parts-List.pdf > > Scroll down to the top of Page 2.? If you could make one or shave down one of > the Harken ones, you could cut the top of your existing extrusion and insert > a new trim cap so the extrusion with new trim cap rides on the wire.? Would > require a bit of work but might be a good solution. > > You can cut the extrusion with a Dremel.? Just be very careful not to nick > the wire.? > > If you are replacing the forestay, you can do this when you drop the unit for > that.? I'm assuming you're replacing it with another swaged forestay or are > you using a Norseman or NavTec compression fitting?? If a swaged eye, then > you will have to disassemble the furler completely.? If you are going that > way, just upgrade to the MKIV. > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > > > >> ________________________________ >> From: Peter Fell <prf...@gmail.com> >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 7:59 PM >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0 >> >> >> >> Thanks Dennis >> ? >> Rides on the barrel of the swage. >> ? >> I wonder if I can trim this down? I didn?t think by looking at the info > available online that it should ride on the forestay. >> ? >> I?m ordering a new genoa within the next two weeks .... so now?s the time > to fix this. >> ? >> Here are some pictures: >> ? >> http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/707/1lxd.jpg >> ? >> http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/836/pll3.jpg >> ? >> http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/571/fw5u.jpg >> ? >> That forestay needs to be replaced and currently there is no halyard > restrainer either. Discussing those with a rigger right now. Of course I > could > just replace the furler as well ....I?ve gotten some info on new ones. I can > get > a Mark IV Unit 0 for under $1200. Toggle and restrainer and forestay would be > additional to that. Or a Furlex for about $1600 that includes the restrainer > and > forestay. >> ? >> ? >> From: Dennis C. >> Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 5:22 PM >> To: Peter > Fell ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0 >> ? >> Peter, >> >> I > don't think my buddy and I have any parts for a Mark 1.? I will check with > him tomorrow.? He may have something in his "gold pile".? We haven't > worked on a Mark 1 in a long while. >> >> Last Mark 1 I worked on was basically > an upgrade to the newer extrusions to get rid of the roll pins. >> >> As for > the top cap, is the top of the extrusion riding on the barrel of the swage > eye > or on the wire? >> >> Dennis C. >> Touche' 35-1 #83 >> Mandeville, LA >> >> >> >> ? >> >>> ________________________________ >>> From: Peter Fell <prf...@gmail.com> >>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>> Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 3:25 PM >>> Subject: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0 >>> >>> ? >>> Just wondering if anyone local has a manual and parts list for a Mark 1 >>> Unit 0 furling unit that I could borrow and copy. >>> ? >>> Looking for parts too. Mine is missing a chunk out of the top of the >>> uppermost foil + the top cap. So I?m looking for a foil piece, cap, >>> possibly foil connector, etc. I?ve got a partial copy of the parts list ? >>> looks like might have been a couple versions of this unit. >>> ? >>> Peter Fell >>> Sidney, BC >>> C&C 27 > MkIII >>> _______________________________________________ >>> This > List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20140119/b67eb2be/attachment-0001.html> > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > CnC-List mailing list > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > ------------------------------ > > End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 96, Issue 126 > ***************************************** > _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
