Mark, Rich may offer a different solution but here's how I generally install a bilge pump.
Get the biggest Rule pump that will fit the space and a separate Rule float switch, either the Rule-a-Matic or the Superswitch. If you want a better float switch and it will fit, get the USS Ultra Pumpswitch mini. Coat all connections below with TefGel. Really important in the bilge. Install a Rule Model 43 rocker switch in a convenient but out of the way location. Wire the switch's positive to one of the battery cables on the back of your battery switch (not the common, the one marked #1 or #2) and the negative to ground (for the indicator light). By connecting to the #1 or #2 connection, you're essentially connecting to one of the batteries. As a rule, I don't like to connect directly to a battery inside the battery box. Run the Model 43's auto connection to one side of the float switch. Connect the other side of the float switch and the Model 43's manual connection both to the brown wire (+) on the bilge pump. Make sure the connection is in a dry place, heat shrink it and coat it with liquid electrical tape. Connect the pump's black wire to ground. Make sure to put a loop in the discharge hose. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Mon, May 26, 2014 at 10:18 PM, M Bod via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>wrote: > Rich, > Thanks for the heads up. I was just online tonight looking at bilge pumps. > My CS 30 doesn't have an automatic bilge pump, just a manual. > I feel like I should add an automatic pump, but I wonder what size. > My boat has a very flat bilge with no 'deep' spots at all and maybe 4" > space under the floor boards. > > What size bilge pump is appropriate? (And will fit) > Suggestions? Would you the the 'integrated electronic' switch or the old > fashioned float? > And suggestions on installation? I gather I should have it pump out near > the transom above water level (maybe Y it onto the drain from the manual > pump?) Do you 'direct wire' it to the batteries and bypass the panel? > > Mark > > On 26 May 2014 23:34, Rich Knowles via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > > > My bilge pump and I had a small altercation this weekend. It’s a 2000 > gph PAR unit that I have had on the boat for at least 10 years. It has > never given me problems until it recently decided not to pump any water. > The motor ran just fine, and I could see the water in the bilge being > stirred around, but nothing was being sent overboard. It acted as though it > had an airlock with the impeller only partially submerged. > > > > I dismantled it and found that the small slit that acts as an air vent > at the top of the plastic impeller housing was completely plugged. This > prevented any trapped air from escaping from the pump body. Once I cleaned > the crud out of the vent slit, it performed as new. Good for another ten > years, thank you. > > > > Just a note to tuck away in case anyone has a similar “failure”. > > > > Rich Knowles > > INDIGO LF38 > > Halifax, NS. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > > > Email address: > > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > >
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