All this is good advice. The thing I'm finding not so good is that, while we 
all faithfully install tinned marine wire in hopes of staving off corrosion, 
equipment and bilge pump makers still frequently use untinned copper wire that 
is very prone to corrosion. Shame!

Rich

> On May 27, 2014, at 10:51, Wally Bryant via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Dennis had a good call with heat shrink and painting with liquid electrical 
> tape.  I took made my heat shrink about two inches longer than the 
> connection, and injected marine silicone inside with a syringe.  When the 
> shrunk, silicone gushed out the ends.  It has been wet often.
> 
> Maybe I'm just lucky, but my 12 year old Rule pumps and float switches are 
> still doing fine.  I have a little 500 as the primary pump, and a big one 
> that stays up on a platform about six inches off the bilge, just in case.  
> The 500 does get clogged up with bilge gunk, and I just replaced it because 
> they can't be taken apart and cleaned out.    One thing I do is take a garden 
> hose to 3/4" adapter and flush the hose out with high pressure dock water.  
> I'll also backflush the pump with the garden hose.
> 
> Most of the float switches I've seen fail are really due to bad wiring.  I've 
> seen plain crimp connections just sitting in the bilge, and it's no wonder 
> the wire rots out.  The worst, if you can believe it, was just wires twisted 
> together and covered with electrical tape.  No kidding.  I found that down 
> here in Mexico, as the sport fishing boat was sinking at the dock.  The guy 
> came back to town, and when I told him that I'd saved his boat he didn't even 
> say thanks.  Power boaters.  (It probably didn't help that I said whoever did 
> the wiring ought to be taken out and shot.)
> 
> Wal
> 
> 
> 
> you CnC-List wrote:
>> I ran a rule float switch to one which failed that first year.
> 
> 
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