Paul,
 
My first boat had a Palmer P-60, a  flat-head 4 cylinder derived from an 
International Cub Cadet tractor engine, and  similar to the Atomic 4. It was 
raw-water cooled, and the boat was in salt  water. I had endless running 
problems with it over the years. The problems were  both electrical (ignition) 
and carburetor-related.
 
Conversion of the ignition system to  electronic ignition (no more points 
in the distributor) made a tremendous  improvement, but I still had 
carburetor issues. A real pain to remove it. 
 
I wondered when I bought the boat why  the previous owner had left me a 
box-end wrench cut in half. I soon found out  that there was no room to use a 
full-length wrench (or a socket) to remove  the carburetor bolts. It was so 
tight on that side of the engine that a  "half-wrench" was needed to remove 
the bolts.
 
After several years of trying everything  else, I finally decided to 
completely pump out the fuel tank. I found, at the  bottom of the 35-gallon 
tank, 
at least 1" of water which had apparently  accumulated over time. I have no 
idea why the water never showed up in the  various fuel filters I had tried 
over the years.
 
I completely cleaned the tank as best I  could, and refilled it with fresh 
fuel. I never had another problem with the  engine (other than head gaskets 
corroding and leaking, but that's another story)  over the next 10 years 
that I owned the boat.
 
Perhaps this "cure" will work for  you.
 
Bill
 
MYSTY
Landfall 39
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/5/2014 8:04:29 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com writes:

Paul

If the block is OK and you have good compression and  this hasn't been done
yet, I would get a price to upgrade to electric fuel  pump, electronic
ignition, rebuild the carb (professionally), Install a  good fuel filter /
separator and smaller in-line fuel filter downstream  from the separator,
empty the fuel tank and change ALL fuel lines then  refill with fresh 
treated
fuel. All that can be done with the motor in the  boat. Take your time and
find a good mechanic that has experience with this  motor. Can't imagine 
that
would be more than a couple $K. Certainly less  than a refit to an outboard.
Just about any engine can be made to run  reliably. Since the advent of
ethanol, fuel has become a persistent  problem. Getting rid of the points
will remove the potential for a few  problems, too.

Just a suggestion. Good luck!

-----Original  Message-----
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On  Behalf Of John
Pennie via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 7:46  AM
To: Paul and Darlene Clarke; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re:  Stus-List follow-up on outboards

Paul:

I hear you and feel you  pain.  Been there.

Just don't underestimate the cost of the  outboard route.  Even with a
combination of yard/DIY/Ebay I can't see  this being less than a 4k project
and will easily top 6k yard alone.   That includes removing the A4, removing
all the associated systems and  filling in some pretty big holes.  Beef up
the transom, buy an  electric start outboard, a decent bracket and engine
controls.  None  of this will add a dime of value to your boat. 

Electric is interesting  but really doesn't like being away from dockside
power for more than a  night.  That is likely an 8-10k project. as you still
need to remove  many of the components and upgrade both your charging system
and  batteries.

Repowering with diesel is going to be in the same range. at  least

At the end of the day, I suspect the choice really comes down to  a total
rebuild vs. time to sell.

Just an  opinion.

John


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