Interesting.

I replaced teak rails with stainless on a J30 a few years ago.  It had
over/under handrails.  We kept the teak rails underneath.  Over/under rails
add a level of complexity when replacing with stainless.  It's important to
plan how you do it.

Sent the old capintop rails to Whitewater Marine along with an estimate of
the longitudinal crown in the cabintop.  I think the crown was around 2
inches.  That curvature has to be manufacted into the stainless rails.
They don't bend much.  Whitewater made nice stainless rails from the
patterns.

While the new SS rails were being fabricated, I overbored and filled the
old holes in the cabintop.  I also epoxy filled the old fastener holes in
the lower teak handrails.  Then I plugged the fastener holes in the
underneath handrails.  I epoxied plugs in the holes.  Essentially, I made
the underneath handrails whole again.

When the SS rails came in, I placed them on the cabintop and drew a circle
around each of the mounting feet.  Using a washer, I then drew the centers
and drilled the new mounting holes.  I oversized them a bit to allow for
some tilt and slop.  With a buddy holding the lower handrails in place, I
drilled a small shallow hole in one of the END feet of the lower rail from
above.  We then drilled that hole fully trying to align it to the old hole
which I'd filled.  We used a small bit to drill a pilot hole because we
were drilling through the small epoxy plug in the rail.  Once we drilled
the pilot hole, we re-drilled to the correct size.  I then drilled the
countersink for the plug.

Installed the stainless and underneath handrails with a fastener in that
first hole.  We then offset the SS rail abit and repeated the process for
the other end of the handrails.  Once the handrails were drilled at each
end, we held the underneath rail in place with the end fasteners in it and
marked the intermediate holes with a shallow drill hole.  We then drilled
the intermediate holes in the underneath rail.

Between the slightly oversize holes in the cabintop and the flexibility of
the teak rails underneath, the holes lined up fairly well and the whole
thing went back together.  Some of the new plugs in the teak rail were
slightly off from the original holes but that was only noticeable if you
looked closely.  Who examines overhead handrails that closely anyway?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Nov 14, 2014 at 11:06 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Found this handrail project w pictures.  as some interesting ideas.
> http://dan.pfeiffer.net/10m/handrails.htm
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
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